Material Innovation Initiative's 'Beyond Polyester' report offers a compelling overview of the emerging alternatives for polyester, and the reasons why these innovations are crucial for a sustainable future. The report highlights some of the most exciting work at the intersection of #synbio and #textiles, but there's one notable absence: Protein-based fibers.
It's not because proteins can't replace polyester in performance – they can outperform it by miles – just consider the remarkable strength and toughness of spider silk. But because there are still significant challenges with manufacturing protein fibers at scale that leaves them in the unenviable position of not being 'drop-in ready'.
To put into perspective the scale of the challenge, today I estimated (back of the napkin) that we produce somewhere around 50-100 tons of protein-based fiber, all through wet-spinning processes where companies have spent years (decades) figuring out how to get proteins to (kinda) work in existing systems. Meanwhile, the world churns out 63,000,000 tons of polyester. If we wanted to replace polyester 1:1 with protein fibers it would require exponential growth. Yet, interestingly it's expected by 2035 that we will produce 97,000,000 tons of artificial meat – showing that protein production at scale is possible (and I don't think anyone is expecting polyester to be replaced with just one fiber-type).
It's also not a matter of protein design. In fact we are at the dawn of a golden age of protein engineering. While AI & ML models still struggle to design proteins that form fibers (a topic for another post), we have several examples of proteins inspired by spider silk, squids, or based on existing models that we know produce exceptional fibers.
What sets proteins apart is their unique ability to self-assemble, and respond dynamically to the environment – creating capabilities that are literally impossible with polyester. Imagine textiles that can heal wounds, detect toxins, filter metals, or foster a healthy skin microbiome. Picture fabrics that serve as a robotic 'skin', or replace synthetic muscles. The potential is immense.
So why haven't protein fibers taken off? The issue is compatibility with existing manufacturing. Proteins weren't made for melt-spinning or even wet-spinning as we know them. What's missing is investment in new, specialized spinning techniques that can unlock the full potential of proteins. Once we solve this, the incredible capabilities of protein-based fibers could become everyday materials, transforming industries and ushering in sustainability breakthroughs.
If you have read this far - thanks! - and also reach out to me to learn more about the Impossible Fibers program that is seeking to transform manufacturing of protein fibers.
#protein #fibers #textile #innovation #manufacturing #biomanufacturing #synbio #robotics #health
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