Càrn Mòr Dearg

Hikes to Càrn Mòr Dearg, spectacular as they are, will forever be in the shadow of the mountain’s illustrious neighbour, Ben Nevis. Even its most celebrated feature, the graceful sweeping arc of the Càrn Mòr Dearg Arête (often shortened to CMD Arête), is thought of as a way up the Ben rather than belonging to the mountain after which it is named. 99 times out of 100, Càrn Mòr Dearg is just a stop off on the journey to the roof of Britain. But, as stop offs go, there are surely none quite as spectacular as this.

A sensational traverse to the backdrop of the north face of the Ben

Nowhere else in Britain quite prepares you for the view of Ben Nevis’ magnificent north face as seen from walking routes to Càrn Mòr Dearg. This is spectacularly savage mountain architecture at its finest: a vista of loveless loveliness, of wild, towering, dark rock. Those who ascend Ben Nevis via the Pony Track completely miss out on this majesty.

A narrow, rocky ridge swoops down from Càrn Mòr Dearg’s summit before arcing and rising to meet Ben Nevis’ western shoulder. This is the CMD Arête, stretching for the best part of a mile and representing one of the finest grade one ridge scrambles in Britain. Although intimidating, it is technically straightforward and a bypass path allows you to avoid the crest for most of the way. Any route on the arête to Ben Nevis is a long, hard day; not one for the children or the dog.

Glen Nevis and Fort William make for excellent bases, boasting all manner of accommodation options. In winter conditions, Càrn Mòr Dearg is the preserve of properly equipped mountaineers only, with the arête particularly dangerous if icy.