"Helter Skelter," directed by Mika Ninagawa and released in 2020, is a visually stunning and unclassifiable film that delves into the world of beauty and celebrity. The protagonist, Lilico (played by Erika Sawajiri), is a jaw-droppingly attractive young woman who reigns at the top of the fashion world. Teenagers idolize her, everyone wants to interview her, and her team of makeup artists and schedulers are essentially slaves to her every bidding.
The film's aesthetic is a kaleidoscopic dreamscape, influenced by manga, creating an uncomfortably flashy universe. The colors, emanating from fancy lighting and set design, are everywhere, but the visuals do more than just look good; they are creepy and disturbing. There is excess, set design touches that don't mesh well, and color patterns that feel just a tad off, reflecting Lilico's wild, fetishistic desires and inhibitions.
The story begins with Lilico's dominance in the fashion industry, but soon hints of many things afoot rear their ugly heads, such as the discomforting black marks on her forehead. From then on, the film focuses on her bizarre and increasingly ludicrous fight to retain dominance over those who still adore her despite her repulsive traits. Lilico's refusal to be kicked by the wayside leads her to make ostentatious and egotistical demands, often involving sullying the career of her new rival, Kozue (played by Kiko Mizuhara).
The film's soundtrack, courtesy of Koji Ueno, is wonderful, featuring classical pieces and a great score that adds to the overall atmosphere. The characters are bogged down in a quagmire from which there is no exit until Lilico either takes a stance or worse.
"Helter Skelter" is a clever and beautifully photographed film that further heralds Mika Ninagawa as a talent to watch. It functions like a fashion show, showcasing costumes, makeup, and styles that no regular person would wear on a daily basis. The film is a two-hour-plus length, which may deter some viewers, but it has proven to be a massive hit in Japan and is opening across other Far Eastern territories.
Rating: 7/10.
