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5 locations to explore Amsterdam's layered LGBTQ history


3 min read
11 July
Type of trip
City breaks
Festivals

Dutch culture has long been synonymous with tolerance and inclusivity. In Amsterdam, the Red Light District’s window brothels sit a stone’s throw from historic churches, marijuana connoisseurs can explore different strains and products in the Netherlands’ ubiquitous ‘coffee shops’ and a thriving immigrant community enriches the culinary landscape nationwide, dishing up specialities from shawarma and nasi goreng to tagine and pierogi.

Over in The Hague, the U.N.’s International Court of Justice and the International Criminal Court work to protect and defend human rights. This robust belief in acceptance, flexibility, diversity and human rights has made the Netherlands a world leader in LGBTQ rights.

Homosexuality was decriminalised in the Netherlands more than 200 years ago, shortly after France, setting a precedent for societal emancipation throughout Western Europe. Centuries later, the Netherlands was the first country in the world to legalise same-sex marriage in 2001 and granted same-sex couples adoption rights within the same year.

Today, the Dutch capital is a hub of LGBTQ -friendly attractions and experiences. So, whether you’re in town for Amsterdam Pride or another occasion, why not visit some of the spots that embody the community's living history?

Pay your respects at the Homomonument

'Never again' is the idea behind Amsterdam's Homomonument. Never again to war, never again to the Holocaust and never again to the persecution of homosexual people. This poignant monument is dedicated to the gay people who lost their lives in World War II: on the battlefield, in concentration camps or during the Nazi occupation.

Outside of the European Jewish population, certain other communities were targeted by the Nazis for imprisonment, medical experimentation and extermination. Homosexuals, particularly gay men, were among these ‘undesirable’ populations and forced to wear a pink triangle in the concentration camps as a symbol of their degeneracy. For those who survived the Holocaust, opportunities to rebuild their lives and heal were scarce, as stigma and societal shunning of homosexuality remained prevalent in the post-war years.

Created in 1987, the monument has its roots in a 1970 incident, where two members of the Amsterdamse Jongeren Aktiegroepen Homoseksualiteit (AJAH) were arrested for laying a wreath at Dam Square to commemorate gay war victims on Remembrance Day, triggering an outcry and public protests. The design features three pink granite triangles set into the ground, redefining a symbol of oppression in the context of empowerment.

You can find the Homomonument in a peaceful waterfront square behind the Westerkerk – it’s free to visit and accessible to wheelchair users. Next to the landmark is a Pink Point information kiosk where you can chat with local volunteers about Amsterdam’s LGBTQ history and pick up reading material.

Expand your worldview at an extensive LGBTQ archive

IHLIA LGBTI Heritageis one of the largest archive museums of LGBTQ history in the world. Spanning centuries, countries, cultures and communities, this 100,000-strong collection of documents, images, and artefacts ranging from old advertisements to vintage condom wrappers offers a window into the lives and challenges of lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender and intersex people.

If you prefer a more curated experience, you’ll find rotating exhibitions and a regular programme of lectures, panel discussions and workshops at the centre. IHLIA LGBTI Heritage is free to enter, though donations are appreciated. You can find this hidden gem on the third floor of the Amsterdam Public Library, located on Oosterdokseiland.

Sip a Dutch beer at Café ‘t Mandje

With its angled walls, ceiling beams and light fixtures all adorned with layers of memorabilia, a classic jukebox illuminated in rainbow colours and original trinkets from the late founder’s collection, Café ‘t Mandje is a cosy and welcoming haven for Amsterdam’s LGBTQ community and one of Europe’s oldest gay bars. It was first opened in 1927 by an openly gay woman and noteworthy character in the local community, Bet van Beeren.

Very few entrepreneurial options were available at that time for unmarried women, but being a bar proprietor was possible. Van Beeren wanted to create a space where marginalised communities could gather and socialise without judgement, purposefully choosing a location (Zeedijk 63) adjacent to the Red Light District.

In addition to gay and lesbian patrons, Café ‘t Mandje opened its doors to sex workers, pimps and sailors. The quaint bar was restored and reopened in 2008 and is today run by Van Beeren’s niece, Diana van Laar, with many of the original features and decor unchanged since the 1920s. Pop in for a pulled pint of frosty Amstel and conversation or plan your visit to coincide with one of the pub's many events – live music and rousing sing-alongs prove particularly popular.

Count down to the eradication of a devastating disease at the HIV/AIDSmonument

With the River IJ as its backdrop, Amsterdam’s HIV/AIDSmonument is an eye-catching art piece designed by French contemporary artist Jean-Michel Othoniel, who specialises in emotional geometry. It’s titled Living by Numbers and shaped like a giant abacus that counts down to the moment that HIV will leave our world for good.

Plaques placed around the monument tell the story of the pain and scapegoating the gay community suffered as the AIDS pandemic spread across the world in the 1980s, causing mass panic. A death sentence up until the development of effective antiretroviral drugs in the mid-90s, the disease disproportionately affected an entire generation of young gay and bisexual men, many of whom lost their own lives or loved ones.

The monument is situated in a vibrant area between Amsterdam Centraal Station and the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ concert hall, and a trip here can be combined with a contemplative stroll along the waterfront and your visit to IHLIA LGBTI Heritage, which is a five-minute walk away.

Dust off your rainbows and sequins for Prime Amsterdam

The highlight of the LGBTQ calendar for Dutch folk and visitors from far and wide, Pride Amsterdam is a feast of colour, costumes, community, floats and revelry in all its forms, and this year’s theme is TOGETHER -- and 2024 marks the 47th year of festivities.

The two-hour parade sets out from Amstelveld, the site of the first march, and wends towards Vondelpark, which will be transformed for the day into Pride Park. From noon until 22:00, the beloved green space will play host to celebrations and a lineup of activities, like live music and performances, an outdoor theatre, sports and an extensive Junior Pride section.

Of course, a celebration of individuality wouldn’t be complete without acknowledging one of the Netherlands’ most distinctive features. So, a second Pride parade takes place the following weekend on 3 August – Amsterdam’s annual Canal Parade, inaugurated in 1996. This fleet of themed and lavishly decorated boats features a diverse mix of participants, from large companies (including Booking.com!) to political parties, LGBTQ NGOs and small foundations and interest associations. The festive convoy sails set from noon, so come early to grab a prime viewing spot along the waterways.

Between the two parades and until Sunday, 4 August, Pride Week features an itinerary of events and activities related to Pride. These include street parties, LGBTQ meetups, exhibitions, comedy, talks, club nights, concerts, workshops, and more. The full schedule for Pride Week can be found on the official Pride Amsterdam website.

Where to stay

Amsterdam has an endless array of accommodation options, from iterations of well-known hotel brands to boutique hotspots, homestays and even canal boats. Still, you’ll want to move quickly to secure a booking if you’re heading to the capital during Pride Week. We’ve curated a list of top Travel Proud stays to help you decide – each one bearing our special rainbow suitcase badge that denotes the properties that go above and beyond to make LGBTQ guests feel safe and welcome.