Level Shifter build help #995
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Hello! I apologize for my ignorance, while I'm technologically inclined, i've never done anything with circuit boards or anything like that. Sooo, my hue gradient gave out, and am building a Hyperion now, and need a level shifter. From the documentation I am needing a little bit of help on building it. These are the two images I am looking at right now. Up first on things I need to make it work. I was going to get this---https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D8VSYQCW/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=A1G9SLP4Q3I0FT&psc=1 to have a bunch of boards and headers, and just incase I needed more for other stuff down the road. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832650057888.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.1f5538daXgg01w&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa I've got this to connect the 2nd item to the board--https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09H6TJSJ6/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A27Z2KIJCBIOXA&psc=1 These two to go on the board. This is where my ignorance kicks in a bit, on the first image, what is it on the PCB board and on the MH-ET LIVE board that connects them? Can someone link that for me? Once I have that built, my plan is to use Based on what I have read here that should all work fine does that sound correct? Thank you for your time and assistance!! -Chase |
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Replies: 1 comment 18 replies
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Hi Chase |
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ok, so if I did the MS2130 or the UGreen, then the Ezcoo EZ-SP12H2 I should be good. The RP2040, what do I need to do with that? just connect the USB to the Pi? |
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just remember that MS2130 and Ezcoo EZ-SP12H2 does not support VRR if you need it. EZ-SP12H21 and ugreen should support it.
yes, and the output data line and the ground to the LED strip (for the common ground with the LED power supply). |
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in your case you connect Scorpio to the RPi, not the LG TV. the connection to the leds does not have to be in the corner, it can be e.g. in the middle of the lower edge. it does not matter, everything can be configured later in HyperHDR |
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actually would it matter if the power supply was slightly bigger such as MEAN WELL LRS-100-5? |
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A more powerful power supply won't hurt, I use the over-shot Mean Well LRS-150F-5 myself. A power supply like this also needs a case and preferably an IEC socket with a fuse: safety first. |
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Ok I'll look for that. I'll go with the stronger power supply. Do you hsve any recommendations on a good brand/company to go with on the case. A good size for our application? I looked at the brand you mentioned in the build. Looks like only in the UK. Did you see that Pic I loaded above? Does that look accurate? |
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The (local) company is from Poland. I don't know the equivalent from the US market. I'm not sure if you need a third injection point in the middle: once you measure how much the whole thing will come out and cut it off, you can measure the voltage in the middle and check if it's within the norms, e.g.: https://www.pololu.com/file/0J1233/sk6812_datasheet.pdf ( 3.5～ 5.5) You can ask the BTF manufacturer for their recommendations/specification (if they have any...). |
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Sorry for the delay, I got off work, and kids got home and they pulled me from my computer....anyways.
Looking at that diagram you put up there.
adding this as power supply, https://www.amazon.com/Single-Output-Enclosed-Switching-Supply/dp/B018TDT20I
then this as a plug to plug into power supply--https://www.amazon.com/QTEATAK-Extension-2-Pole-3-Wire-Straight/dp/B0CHY8NX13/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=3J3IYGI9JSHVQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Ad_NfMlJTtM5qCKw9LlzRqUwrAu9DYyuMbf5jLrhtDpPEiWOFvSXJAbcltgdjqFJcRZZd6iEJSHwBblC6W0nxl49bpiSBBc0SuJIsUxQiOADZeDuyqbGyFVNHyu4TT29DG-2XxGQl-Pwy_siU5QtFSshB_XC1UVP5V2fRSWwbXFf5e1FoogP7UH1yL8s8CMBGBuqNXf5z2aYvnUKarPVeM_e_9xee551qdjNq9Xie66AhYrBsR-kLQHNFH3WS3d24CIT3XY4SrKYf…