St. Martin's Bay

The Isles of Scilly (Cornish: Enesek Syllan) is a small archipelago of islands in the Atlantic Ocean, 25 miles (40 km) off the coast of Cornwall at the south-western tip of the United Kingdom. The main island, and obvious base for visitors, is St Mary's. Four of the other islands (known as "Off Islands") are inhabited: best known is Tresco for its Abbey Gardens. All the islands are scenic, and collectively they've been designated an "Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty".

Understand

Look at a map of the islands or a satellite photo, and it's as if a single large island has drowned. And that is indeed what happened, possibly as recently as 500 AD, as "Ennor" sank to become a source for legends of Atlantis and Lyonesse. These islands are the last redoubt of land as Britain pokes its toe into the Atlantic, so they came to signify first and last sight of the homeland, or terrible shipwreck, or a nest of rebels and pirates, or first point of attack from overseas powers.

The islands bask in the Gulf Stream and are very mild and sunny. They're cooler than mainland England at the height of summer, but considerably warmer in winter, and frost is rare. This balmy climate fosters sub-tropical flora and a flower industry, plus tourism. St Mary's is the largest island with a population of around 1750, with Hugh Town the main settlement. The other four inhabited Off Islands are each home to a hundred or so. There's limited visitor accommodation and limited transport capacity, so book them simultaneously. The islands are frankly expensive (it's cheaper to holiday in the Med), so even with day-trippers they're not mobbed by tourist hordes - until a cruise ship appears, as they regularly do.

There are no slabby office blocks, high-rise flats or chain hotels here. Much of the land is owned by the Duchy of Cornwall (i.e. Prince of Wales), who together with the islands' council are determined to preserve its character and wildlife. Minor royalty take holidays here, and you'll frequently spot the Duchy's coat of arms. It looks like a bunch of grapes but in heraldry it's "Sable, 15 bezants" plus other flummery. (Translation: black, with 15 gold coins of Byzantium, looted by Crusaders.)

If a local is within earshot, always refer to the place as "The Isles of Scilly", and don't be caught saying "The Scilly Isles" or "The Scillies". This is often attributed to the Royal Mail, as in the early 1900s, they changed the address for the islands from “Scilly Isles” to “Isles of Scilly”, as many of the letters bound to the islands were mistakenly sent to Sicily.

Although you may refer to an islander as a Scillonian (same as the ferry), the proper definition of a Scillonian is someone whose grandmother was born and raised on the islands, while an Islander is someone who was born and/or raised there. If you live on the islands but don't fit any of the above criteria, you're a mere Resident. Don't worry if that's too much to take in, as many people use the terms interchangeably, and you're highly unlikely to cause any offense if you get them mixed up.

The Cornish language was spoken on the islands until the 17th century, and unlike on the mainland there has been no serious attempt to revive it in the 21st. However, many local place names (e.g. Annet, Bryher, Tresco) are Cornish in origin.

Visitor information

• The official tourist information centre is on Portcressa Road in Hugh Town. There's also an independent travel agent, Isles of Scilly Travel, on Hugh Street.
• Simpy Scilly tourist information website

Islands

There are five inhabited islands:

Map of the Isles of Scilly

St Mary's The obvious base for visitors, with accommodation, the airport, and ferries to the mainland and to the other islands, all in or close to the main settlement Hugh Town. St Mary's has a museum, a fortified headland "The Garrison", and several Iron Age burial cairns.

Tresco The second largest island has the Abbey Gardens, a couple of ruined castles, and upmarket B&B and self-catering accommodation.

Bryher The smallest and most westerly of the inhabited islands, exposed to the Atlantic breeze and waves; so it's wild, windswept and magnificent. At very low tide it's linked to Samson and to Tresco.

St Martin's The most easterly of the islands and so the most sheltered from the Atlantic. Many smallholdings grow flowers and vegetables. At low tide it's linked to White Island, which has Neolithic remains.

St Agnes The southernmost inhabited spot in the UK and a quiet charming place. At low tide it's joined to the little island of Gugh.

And a large number of smaller uninhabited islands and islets:

Uninhabited islands These include Annet, the Eastern Isles, the Norrad Rocks, Samson, St. Helen's, Tean and the Western Rocks. Admire them from a boat trip, but do not land without checking advice from the Wildlife Trust. Many of them are off-limits April-Sept, as are parts of the inhabited islands. Annet and the outermost skerries are permanently off-limits.

Get in

Not on Sunday you won't: no ferry, no flights, so Sunday newspapers arrive Monday. The exception is if flights or ferries have been cancelled by weather. Then extra catch-up services may be put on, perhaps at short notice to take advantage of a weather window. So you need to stay in touch with your transport operator in these circumstances.

By boat

1 The Scillonian III passenger ferry, Quay Street, Penzance TR18 4BZ, ☏ 44 845 710 5555. The ferry sails end of March to end of Oct, M-Sa, from Penzance at 9:15AM to reach Hugh Town, St Mary's by noon; it returns at 4:30PM for 7:15PM. No winter or Sunday sailings. Foot passengers only (dogs & bikes welcome), booking essential - the ferry may sell out. In Penzance, check-in at the "Weighbridge" building, next to Dolphin Tavern. Get your baggage tagged to go either to Hugh Town pier, or to an Off Island, or to a specific hotel on St Marys. From the Weighbridge it's a short walk with hand luggage to the boarding point - Scillonian will be the biggest and whitest thing in the harbour. In Hugh Town, baggage for pier delivery and the check-in point for return are at the end of the main pier: toilets and cafe here.
Scillonian has outdoor and indoor seating, two cafes and a bar. No vehicles are carried. Watch for marine life on the way over, dolphins may follow the boat. At high tide the ship takes a short-cut north of St Mary's, at low tide it's a slightly longer route south of the island. In Hugh Town harbour, local boatmen will be offering day-trips to the Off Islands - you can easily tour Tresco Abbey Gardens in time for the afternoon return ferry. Day trip: adult £48, child £24; return: adult £100, child £50. (updated Jul 2018)

See Penzance for long-stay parking options near the mainland ferry terminal.

Hugh Town on St Mary's, the main centre of the Isles of Scilly

By plane

There are flights year-round to the Isles of Scilly from Land's End and Newquay, Monday to Saturday. In winter when the ferry doesn't sail, this is your only way in. March to October there are also flights from Exeter. These "Skybus" flights are in small fixed-wing twin-props (e.g. Twin Otter or BNF Islander) so your checked baggage limit is only 15 kg, and flights can be grounded by weather that wouldn't bother an Airbus or 737. Day-trips (with no checked baggage) can be made from Land's End or Newquay but not Exeter.

The islands' airport is 2 St Mary's Airport (ISC  ^IATA) (2 miles from Hugh Town). No public transport; your hotel may pick up, else take a taxi. (updated Jun 2018)

By helicopter

There are year-round flights to the islands from a heliport just off the A30 at Jelbert Way, Penzance flying with Penzance Helicopters, ☏ 44 1736 780828 (M-F 8:30AM-4:30PM). Flights operate to both St Mary's and Tresco in the Isles of Scilly (15 min). There's direct access off the A30 and on-site parking, or there's a shuttle bus that links the heliport to the nearby train station. The helicopter offers a 20-kg luggage allowance. A standard return is £130 each way, but there's also a day trip return fare from £129 return.. (updated Mar 2021)

Get around

Around St Mary's

Walking is ideal for the area around Hugh Town, from the Garrison to the west to Old Town to the east. A hiking trail circles the coast, and all of St Mary's is within walking range of fit young adults (which most visitors no longer are.) The roads are good but very narrow, with no sidewalk beyond Old Town, so even with light traffic you won't enjoy walking them.

Bike hire is widely available. Electric carts can be hired from Scilly Cart Co - bright yellow golf-buggies, but they're road-legal and you will be on the public highway, so you need your driving licence.

April to October M-Sa an elderly bus chugs around St Mary's, visiting or passing close to all points of interest, but not calling at the airport. It starts from the Strand near town hall in Hugh Town. Every two or three hours it runs as a standard bus, 30 min circuit, single trip adult £2, concessions available. Between times it runs as a sight-seeing bus, stopping for photos at the main viewpoints, £10 for a one-hour circuit. Bus times are posted at various locations in town, or ask at the TIC. Mainland bus drivers often don't like giving change but this one, uniquely, resents getting too much, and turns puce at the sight of euros.

Taxis are usually waiting in the centre of Hugh Town, or touting at the pier when the ferry comes in.

Between the islands

Small boats run from the quay at Hugh town on St Mary's to each of the inhabited islands. See St Mary's Boatmen's Association for times and fares, but the standard direct sailings are Apr-Oct daily, 4 to Tresco, 3 to St Agnes, 2 to St Martin's and 2 to Bryher. The boats carry bikes and luggage (including bags checked through from the mainland) but not electric carts or freight. Return fares are adult £9.50, child £4.75, with crossings taking 20 mins. No advance booking, pay at the kiosk on the pier or on the boat.

In summer the direct boat times suit visitors going out from St Mary's in the morning to visit one island and return in the afternoon. They don't enable hops between Off Islands, even between Tresco and Bryher a few hundred yards apart, and they don't circle the islands for sightseeing and bird-watching. For those, take a tour trip, usually adult £15, child £7.50. For instance the Three Islands tour visits Bryher, Tresco and St Agnes, with an hour or two ashore on each. Other offerings are for evening tours, seasonal bird-watching (eg the Manx Shearwaters and puffins), fishing, watching the gig-racing, and out into deep water as far as lonely Bishop lighthouse. In winter most boats are laid up and there are very few sailings. Times then are more suited to bringing Off Islanders in to St Mary's for life's essentials then getting them home.

Posted timetables are only approximate, and you always need to enquire on the pier about weather, boat times, tides and sea conditions, and what's going on for the next few days. (Is a cruise ship due in? If so, "££!" signs will light up in local eyes, boat trips will sell out, and the main tourist sights will be busy.) Then once on your boat, be sure to check the return sailing time and pick-up point, which may well differ from where you land.

Around the Off Islands

Walk. The Off Islands are small and have good lanes so cycling is easy; bike hire is available on all islands. For getting in and away with luggage, your accommodation will usually provide transport to the quay. There are very few vehicles, and islanders potter around on a fleet of tractors, buggies (hire may be possible), and antediluvian Land Rover Defenders.

See

Palms and pandanus in England! The Tresco Abbey Gardens

St Mary's

• 1 Isles of Scilly Museum, Church Street, St Mary's TR21 0JT, ☏ 44 1720 422337. Easter-Sep M-F 10AM-4:30PM; Sa 10AM-noon; Oct-Good Friday M-Sa 10AM-noon. It's an ill wind: the gales of winter 1962 unearthed Romano-British remains, so where to house them? This museum, opened in 1967, displays the history of the islands. Pirates, longitude, wildlife, it's all here. Adults £3.50, concs £3, children 5-16 £1. (updated Jul 2018)
• 2 Harry's Walls, St Mary's (East of town above Portmellon beach). Always open. These are the walls of an unfinished artillery fort built to the east of the harbour in 1552-53. Building was abandoned when they decided instead to fortify the headland to the west, which became The Garrison. Free. (updated Jul 2018)
• 3 The Garrison (Star Castle) (On headland west of harbour; enter via Gatehouse up steep lane). Always open. The Spanish Armada was defeated in 1588, but they might come back for revenge, so fortification began here (abandoning the less-well-sited Harry's Walls). Enter the curtain wall via the Gatehouse; the powder magazine here has a free exhibition on the history. A circuit along the walls is a pleasant one hour walk, past artillery emplacements and redoubts; mostly firm easy going but some rough spots. Imposing Hugh House was the officers' quarters. The core of the Garrison, a stout Vauban-style bastion, is now the Star Castle Hotel. Free. (updated Jul 2018)
• 4 Bant's Cairn. Burial Chamber dates from the Bronze Age, as the gradual flooding of Ennor forced inhabitants onto higher ground. It was empty when first excavated in 1900. St Mary's has some 80 similar "entrance graves", e.g. at nearby Innisidgen and at Porth Hellick Down on the east tip, but Bant's Cairn is the finest. A little lower down the hill is Halangy Down Ancient Village, occupied from the Iron Age into Roman times, with a prehistoric terraced field system. The cairn and ancient village are at the north end of St Mary's, the bus runs to the top of Telegraph Rd. They're always open, free.  

Tresco

Remember that your boat pick-up point may not be the same as your landing! Depending on tides it will be either Cairn Near Point on the south tip of the island, or New Grimsby on the west coast looking across at Bryher. They're a 20-min walk apart.

• 5 Abbey Gardens, Tresco TR24 0QQ (centre of the island), ☏ 44 1720 424108. Daily 10AM-4PM. Impressive botanical garden with a range of Mediterranean and sub-tropical plants growing healthily outdoors. Created in the 19th century in the ruins of a Benedictine Abbey, with tall hedges and landscaping as windbreaks. Includes "Valhalla", a collection of sailing ship figureheads. Adult £15, conc £13.50, 5-15 £5, under 5 free. (updated Jul 2018)
• 6 Cromwell's Castle, Tresco (15 mins walk north of New Grimsby along the coastal path). During daylight hours. This coastal gun tower was built by Oliver Cromwell in 1651-1652 on a promontory to guard the anchorage between Bryher and Tresco. It is administered by English Heritage. Free. (updated Jul 2018)
• 7 King Charles's Castle (15 mins walk north of New Grimsby along the coastal path). During daylight hours. A ruined artillery fort, probably built circa 1550 in the reign of King Edward VI, but named for King Charles by the Royalists who held out against Cromwell in these islands (with a spot of piracy on the side). It was badly sited and not much use, so its masonry was used to build Cromwell's Castle nearby. free. (updated Jul 2018)
• The "Great Pool" just north of Abbey Gardens has bird hides.

Bryher

A small island, mostly farmland, and the most westerly settlement in England (not Britain, as Scotland and Ulster reach further west). The usual landing quay is on the east side just below All Saints Church, but it gets very shallow at low tide. On the west coast the Atlantic waves crash onto Hell Bay, and the Great Pool is a brackish lagoon separated from the sea by a storm beach. There are a couple of cafes and B&Bs plus a campsite. Seen north of the quay, Fraggle Rock is also known as Hangman Island. The bodies of rebels and pirates were often hung up in cages, and Isles of Scilly had plenty of both, but there's no evidence that Fraggle Rock was used for this. At spring low tide it's possible to walk to the southern uninhabited island of Samson, and even to Tresco, but seek local advice before attempting this. There's no transport to other islets such as Gweal.

St Martin's

This is the most northerly of the Isles of Scilly. The usual landing quay is at Higher Town on its south side. This tiny "town" straggles west through Middle Town to, guess where, Lower Town, where the Hotel Quay is the landing point at low tide. St Martin's is surrounded by rugged coastline and unspoilt beaches, and crisscrossed by paths. It has a bakery, a cafe, a couple of pubs, a few B&Bs, and a vineyard (open Tu-Th 11AM-4PM). The bright red & white tower at the north-east corner of the island is a navigational day-mark, erected 1683, and visible from mainland Cornwall - it's not a lighthouse as it never had a light. At the north tip, a rocky causeway passable at low tide connects to White Island, which has Neolithic remains and Sites of Special Scientific Interest. Seek local advice on safe crossing times, as the waves and tides can really rip over the causeway. There's no transport to other nearby islets such as Tean.

St Agnes

This is most southerly populated spot in Britain, with Troy Town Farm being the most southerly habitation in the UK. The quay is on the east of the island, and just next to it is a pub & cafe, the Turk's Head. This, and another couple of small cafes further west, are only open in summer. There's no hotel, but a couple of places do B&B. In the centre of the island is the main settlement and a lighthouse built in 1680; it's no longer lit but serves as a day-mark for shipping. Close to the quay is the tidal island of Gugh, connected to St Agnes by a tombolo of shingle and sand. Check times with the boatman, but you can usually walk across and stroll for a couple of hours either side of low tide. At these times St Agnes has a slightly larger area and population than Bryher; then the tide isolates Gugh and its three residents, and St Agnes again becomes the smallest of the Isles of Scilly.

Do

• Boat trips: check the notice boards at Hugh Town quay or the St Mary's Boatmen's Association for what's available. On the Off Islands, check with the local boat company. See also "Get around" above for other options & practicalities.
• Diving: The distance from the main islands of Britain gives the Scillies excellent visibility for scuba diving, while the archipelago is a tangle of reefs that attract both marine life and has caused innumerable wrecks over the years, including one of the worst peacetime disasters of the Royal Navy. Dive Scilly, run by Dave McBride (T: 01720 422848) runs runs dive trips from a day-boat and can provide gas fills.
• Pilot gigs are traditional Cornish six-oar rowing boats, slim and fast - the first boat to get a pilot out to a struggling ship won the job. They also acted as the first shore-based lifeboats, but since the 19th century have mostly been used for sport racing. Racing gigs must strictly adhere to the "Treffy" pattern of 1838; non-racing gigs may vary. The World Pilot Gig Championships are held here annually in May, with over 100 crews competing, and heroic partying afterwards. There are practices and beer-races at other times. Boat trips follow them from St Mary's.
• Bird watching: the islands are important both for birds of passage - their first & last landfall, especially in spring and autumn - and for resident colonies, most active in early summer.
• Report a rat! St Agnes & Gugh and Annet are rat-free, the other islands are aiming to be. Ground-nesting birds such as the Manx Shearwater depend upon this. So report it if you think you see a rat, but don't try to whack it yourself. You'd only succeed if it was something else, like the Scillies Shrew, a protected species.
• Isles of Scilly Golf Club, Carn Morrval (The course is located on the north-east coast of St Mary's). is open all year and welcomes non-members. It's a nine-hole course, so 18-hole matches go round twice (8632 yards, par 73, record 66). The clubhouse serves food, drink and fine views; evening meals only summer Friday & Saturday. 

Buy

Lots of locally produced food and gifts are available. Beef, pork, lamb, duck, fresh fish and shellfish, wildflower honey, fudge, ice cream, paintings, pottery, glassware, jewellery and even soap, the list is endless. Each island has at least one stall selling locally produced fruit and veg together with fresh free range eggs. Scilly is famous for its flowers, and a wide variety of bulbs are available to take home.

There is a Co-op food store on St Mary's and some Off Islands have a well stocked shop.

There is only one bank in Hugh Town on St Mary's. Lloyds (M-F 9AM-4PM) has an ATM. Many shops, pubs and post offices will do cash back.

Eat and drink

For picnic supplies, stock up at the Co-op on St Mary's, or Off Island local shop. All the inhabited islands have decent pub and cafe food, and cream teas. Hours are geared to tourists and they have limited opening out of season.

View NE from Bryher, over Fraggle Rock and channel to Cromwell's Castle on Tresco

St Mary's

• Cafe Kavorna (on Hugh Street beside Lloyd's Bank, 44 1720 422660) does good breakfasts, lunches and cream teas until 5PM. Gluten-free and vegan options.
• Atlantic Inn, Hugh Town, St Mary's, ☏ 44 1720 422323. M-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su noon-10:30PM. Good pub serving notably decent food. (updated Jul 2018)
• 1 Bishop and Wolf, Silver Street, Hugh Town, St Mary's TR21 0LL, ☏ 44 1720 422790. M-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su from noon. Good popular pub and eating place, serves St Austell Ales. It's named for the two infamous nearby rocks with lighthouses. The Wolf is midway between Cornwall and IOS - there's a fissure in it where strong winds make a howling noise. The Bishop way out to the west is the very last scrap of land of the UK; it may once have looked like a bishop's mitre but no-one really knows. 
• 2 Juliet's Garden, Porthloo Hill, Porthloo, St Mary's, Isles of Scilly TR21 0NF, ☏ 44 1720 422 228. Restaurant with tea garden terrace. (updated Mar 2021)
• 3 Mermaid Inn, The Bank, Hugh Town, St Mary's, TR21 0HY (In former bank, next to quay), ☏ 44 1720 422701. Every traditional British coastal town has a pub which looks fit to be the haunt of crusty old sea dogs, with nautical decorations that look unchanged for the past 50 years. This is the one on Scilly. Do not expect any frills! The Ales of Scilly brands are very popular. (updated Jul 2018)
• Scillonian Club, The Parade, Hugh Town, St Mary's, ☏ 44 1720 422720. M-Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-10:30PM. Nice view over the bay, Skinner's Ale on tap, and a popular Sunday carvery (Su noon-2PM & 6-8:30PM, booking advised). (updated Jul 2018)
• 4 Old Town Inn, Old Town Ln, Old Town, St Marys TR21 0NN, ☏ 44 1720 422301. Daily 11AM-midnight. The only pub on St Mary's away from Hugh Town. (updated Jul 2018)

Off islands

• 5 New Inn, New Grimsby, Tresco TR24 0QQ (just above the quay), ☏ 44 1720 422844. Always stock a good range of real ales. In 19th-century row of cottages, with rooms B&B. (updated Jul 2018)
• 6 Fraggle Rock Bar (Harbour View Bar), The Town, Bryher TR23 0PR (below the campsite, north of the Bar (boat landing)), ☏ 44 1720 422222, [email protected]. Food daily except Su evening. Close to the campsite and noted for the Friday night fish and chips (plus Monday in summer) and double-decker crab sandwiches. Serves Proper Job and Doom Bar Bitter. 3 self-catering units available here. Fraggle Rock is the islet in the channel here, looking north to Cromwell's Castle on Tresco. (updated Jul 2018)
• 7 The Island Bakery, The Island Bakery, Isles of Scilly TR25 0QL, [email protected]. Good quality bread and pastries. (updated Mar 2021)
• 8 Seven Stones Inn, Lower Town, St Martin's TR25 0QW (west end of island), ☏ 44 1720 423777, [email protected]. Good range of real ales. (updated Jul 2018)
• 9 Turk's Head, Old Lane, St Agnes, TR22 0PL (Close to quay), ☏ 44 1720 422434. M-Sa 10:30AM-11:30PM, Su 10:30AM-11PM. Famous for its home-made Cornish pasties - they soon sell out. (updated Jul 2018)

Sleep

Whatever your price range, be ready to book your accommodation just as soon as you've booked your transport. It's all pricey by mainland standards.

St Mary's

• St Mary's Campsite, The Garrison, St. Mary's, ☏ 44 1720 422670. A 9-acre camp site with facilities which include toilet blocks, hot showers, washing up facilities, laundry, supplies shop and a few electrical hookups (must be reserved in advance). Plus self-catering cottages. (updated Jul 2018)
• Lots of B&Bs, mostly in or near Hugh town, reckon £40-70 ppn. If you need to ask directions from a local, knowing the name of your host is more helpful than knowing the name of the B&B.
• 1 St Mary's Hall Hotel, Church St, St. Mary's, ☏ 44 1720 422316. Well-run comfy small hotel in Hugh Town open mid Mar to mid Oct. B&B double £180. (updated Jul 2020)
• Splurge at 2 Star Castle Hotel, St Marys TR21 0JA (on hill overlooking Hugh Town harbour), ☏ 44 1720 422317. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 10:30AM. 38 luxurious bedrooms in 16th-century castle - the "star" refers to the Vauban-style fortifications. Also cottage accommodation within 4 acres of gardens. Two restaurants (non-residents welcome, reservations essential): the conservatory majors on fish, the main castle dining room has a wider selection and is better designed for defensive musket-fire against invaders. Excellent cuisine so half-board is pricey but worth it. Other facilities include an indoor heated swimming pool, tennis court and golf. A courtesy minibus runs between hotel, harbour, town and airport. Check-in your luggage at Penzance ferry terminal or the airport and it will go straight to your room. single £233, double £203-300. (updated Jun 2018)

Tresco

Tresco is a private estate which runs all the accommodation on the island. There is no camping here. Choices are:

• Sea Garden cottages: one-bedroom cottages are available to book per night, larger cottages by the week
• Flying Boat cottages are houses, booked per week.
• The New Inn, rooms for around £55-120 per person B&B.
• Traditional cottages sleep from two to ten, and are booked by the week. They're also available as time-shares: you get the same week every year for 25 years.

Bryher

• 3 Bryher Campsite, Bryher (North of quay), ☏ 44 720 422886. Great views over Tresco channel. Showers, washer/dryer, dish-washing facilities, phone charging and gas cylinder exchange. Sleeps around a hundred, spread over 5 fields. Open April-Sept, booking essential July & Aug. Camping with own tent £11 ppn, hire of set-up bell tent (sleeps 4) £500 per week. (updated Jul 2018)
• There are four small B&Bs on the island.
• 4 Hell Bay Hotel, New Road, Bryher TR23 0PR, ☏ 44 1720 422947. Chic hotel open mid-Mar to mid-Oct with 25 suites looking onto the ocean. Fine dining, B&B tariff also available. The art collection includes Newlyn and St Ives great names such as Hepworth. Owned by the Dorrien Smith family, who also own Tresco. Half board from £300 ppn. (updated Jul 2020)

St Martin's

• 5 St Martin's Campsite, Oaklands Farm, Middletown, St Martins, TR25 0QN, ☏ 44 1720 422888. Four-star rated campsite, right by the beach. Facilities include toilets, hot and cold water basins, coin-operated showers and hair-dryers, baby-changing facilities and washing-up sinks. Capacity 50 pitches for 100 campers, spread over the small fields of an old flower farm. Dogs only by prior arrangement, and never in school holidays. Open April-Sept, booking essential Whitsun and mid-June-Aug. Camping £12 ppn. There's also a small chalet, sleeps two, no running water but it's near the camp block, £250 per week. (updated Jul 2018)
• Four self-catering places, one B&B, and (just as you'd despaired of finding one in these islands) a yurt sleeping 2 2.
• Karma St Martin's, Lower Town, St Martins, TR25 0QN, ☏ 44 1720 422368. Chic hotel open mid-April to Oct. Various spa treatments, but if the island itself doesn't improve your mental wellbeing, you may be beyond the reach of sea-salt scrubs and warm oils, however locally- and ethically-sourced. B&B double from £150. (updated Jul 2020)

St Agnes

• 6 Troytown Farm Campsite, Troytown Farm, Downs,St Agnes TR22 0PL, ☏ 44 720 422360. A campsite that makes ice cream! Facilities include showers and a drying room. Fresh produce is available from the farm. Also has 3 self-catering cottages. Camping adult or child £10 ppn tent charge. (updated Jul 2018)
• Covean Cottage, ☏ 44 1720 422620. The only B&B on St Agnes, with just three rooms. Has a little cafe attached which uses as much locally grown produce as possible. Pizza night is Saturday, takeaway available if pre-ordered. (updated Jul 2018)
• The Parsonage, Old Lane St Agnes TR22 0PL, ☏ 44 1720 422370. Self-catering in the Glebe Barn (sleeps 4) and the Crow's Nest and Orchard Flats (both sleep two, adults only). The Parsonage no longer does B&B. (updated Jul 2018)

St Agnes doesn't have a hotel.

Stay safe

The islands are nearly crime-free. The biggest dangers are probably from bicycle theft or from the odd rowdy group of drunken pub-goers in the evening. Don't leave your bike unlocked outside a pub on a Friday or Saturday night... if it does go missing though you'll probably find it returned nearby the next morning.

If walking along the more rugged coastal paths, or exploring remote parts, especially the smaller uninhabited islands, take with you a charged mobile phone or other means of communication. There is generally good mobile coverage.

As with the rest of the UK, in any emergency call 999 or 112 and ask for Ambulance, Fire or Police when connected.

Connect

The landline area code for the Isles is 01720. There is mobile coverage by all UK networks. The islands are connected to the internet by a high-capacity ocean cable, so there is good internet access available. Royal Mail deliver and collect as on the British mainland, Mondays to Saturdays.

Go next

The only way out by public transport is back to Cornwall on the mainland. It'll be a shock to return to all that scurrying traffic.