Cinque Terre
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Cinque Terre, which means Five Lands, is a group of five small, coastal villages: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso, located in the Italian region of Liguria. They are listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Over the centuries, people have carefully built terraces on the rugged, steep landscape right up to the cliffs that overlook the sea. Part of its charm is the lack of visible corporate development. Paths, trains and boats connect the villages, and cars cannot reach them from the outside.
Villages
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- 1 Riomaggiore
- 2 Manarola — includes Groppo and Volastra
- 3 Corniglia — includes San Bernardino
- 4 Vernazza
- 5 Monterosso
Understand
[edit]All the towns slope down to sea-level except for Corniglia, which is perched on top of a tall cliff. Four of the towns possess an old-world charm (from north to south: Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore). The northern-most town, Monterosso, is completely different. It is very beachy-resorty, with not much to see beyond the boardwalk apart from modern apartment blocks and hotels—nothing like the narrow, crooked streets of the other towns, lined with colorful old houses stacked haphazardly on top of each other.
Riomaggiore
[edit]Riomaggiore is the southern-most of the Cinque Terre. During the day you can hear bell towers chiming and at night the frogs are in frenetic chatter as small boats go night fishing for anchovies and other fish using lights to attract the fish. Riomaggiore also has an ancient stone castello, about which little has been written. An information sign outside explains that first mention of the castello appeared in a document from the mid-500s, which already described it as “ancient”. Its quadrangular walls with two circular towers were built to protect the citizens in case of an attack from the sea. In 800, the castello became a cemetery, and parts were destroyed to adapt it to its new function. Nowadays it is one of the monuments of the Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre. Most of the action in Riomaggiore is on the main street, Via Colombo, where there is an assortment of cafes, bars, restaurants, and of course, gelaterie. There are also alimentari shops selling the typical yummy Italian fare: fresh fruit (strawberries, cherries, and nespole [loquat]), an assortment of salumi (salami, mortadella and the like), cheeses, olives, etc. These are good places to stock up for the hikes into the hills, although all of them are not very far from a town. Bar & Vini, perched on the side of the mountain above the sea, is excellent place for a summer night. The place had the usual mix of tourists and local families with their kids, even well into the night.
Manarola
[edit]Manarola is a town filled with boats, at least on the lower part of it. Covered boats of all kinds line the main street, but it is hard to say when they had last been out. There are many lovely places to eat and drink in Manarola. La Cantina Dello Zio Bramante serves acciughe (anchovies) fresh from the sea, with lemon, olive oil, and fresh, crusty bread. Aristide Café had the cheapest espressi macchiatti, the first bar encountered if walking from Riomaggiore (a paved, easy, path that goes by the sea, and takes about 15 minutes or so). It turns out that Manarola also has the best gelateria of all the towns: 5 Terre Gelateria e Creperia, on Antonio Discovolo next to the Farmacia which is next to the Coop 5 Terre. Manarola also has a nice little swimming area. It's a little cement pier next to some big rocks that you can wade out from, into the blue blue waters. It gets deep fast, so it's possible to dive off the end of the pier. Plenty of caves and coastline to explore, and underwater rocks. There are also a few more swimming holes farther on, accessible from the Blue Trail, not far from the gate beyond which the trail pass is required. There are stairs going all the way down to sea level, and a small little terrace about half-way down with picnic tables where you can see locals enjoying a simple lunch. There are lots of sharp mussels and barnacles down by the rocks, but otherwise the swimming is fantastic here too, without many people.
Corniglia
[edit]Corniglia: Farther along the Blue Trail there is a stone beach that offers much easier access to the water, and also more people. At the Corniglia train station, the path gains height to reach the town, the only one not near sea-level. The road passes lemon trees, vines, lilies and vegetation of all kinds, and in May the air is full of the perfume of flowers.
Corniglia feels smaller and quieter, but just as quaint as the other towns. Bar Nunzio serves glasses of local wine—with a complementary bowl of local olives— under some yellow umbrellas near the statue of Corniglia himself. There is a little piazza with a communal olive press where you can sit and pass the time. There is also a tower, but it is not very high.
As Corniglia is atop a large hill, it is only reachable from the train station by either climbing the 365 steps up the hill ("one for each day of the year") or also there is a bus run by the Cinque Terre National park that takes people up to Corniglia and back down again. This is a must if you are carrying suitcases. The bus only runs from 07:00 - 20:00, and starts at 08:00 on the weekends.
Vernazza
[edit]The Blue Trail from Corniglia to Vernazza, the next town to the north, is a dirt path that starts off in an olive grove above the town. It keeps climbing and things get a bit sweaty and steep in some places, with many stone steps and a few switchbacks. Nothing too strenuous though. The trail along the sea affords great backwards views of both Corniglia and Manarola. Vernazza is approached from above and its two ancient towers are in prominent view (they close at 19:00). The town has a maze of tiny streets that eventually lead down to the main street. At first sight, Vernazza seems a little rundown. The paint on the buildings around the beach area is peeling off in large sections, but don't let that put you off. Vernazza is lively and boisterous and has a great night scene, two clock towers, a beach, boats, and a large public space with umbrellas and tables. The beach area is a small sandy strip that is not the best swim spot (there is only a small section of water roped off for swimming, beyond which are boats and then the open sea), but it is safe for kids and free of sharp bivalves.
You can spend the evening having wine along the main street below the train station, lounging on a quiet bench above the town beside hotel Gianni overlooking the sea, or by the sea, watching the mountainous coastline zigzag in and out, hiding Monterosso.
Monterosso
[edit]Monterosso is built to accommodate many tourists in large, modern apartments and hotels. It doesn't have quite the same charm as the other towns, but it does have quite a large sandy beach with lots of colourful umbrellas, and of course, beach-side restaurants and cafes. The backstreets of Monterosso are not as interesting as in the other towns. Not to be missed at the end of the beach is a big statue holding a terrace.
Climate
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The Cinque Terre have a Mediterranean climate with warm summers and mild winters. Temperatures very rarely fall below 0°C in winter, and rarely surpass 35°C in summer, rendering the climate very mild year-round.
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]The closest airports to the Cinque Terre are in Pisa and Genova with Firenze also being a reasonable choice. The city of Milan is about a 2-hour train ride to Genoa where one is able to change to the local train line at both Piazza Principe or Brignole stations. Milan's Malpensa International Airport is a major international airport with several European and some North American connections, but you will have to take an additional Malpensa Express airport train to Milan's main station, adding another hour to the journey.
By train
[edit]The Cinque Terre villages are well connected by rail and each of the villages has a train station. Regular and very frequent local trains run from Genova and La Spezia, some of which terminate in Sestri Levante from both directions. All trains are operated by the state carrier, Trenitalia with the majority being newly introduced, air-conditioned trainsets. They tend to get very crowded during high season though and not all trains stop at all of the smaller stations. There are also few but regular InterCity trains stopping at some of the villages on the way for a slightly faster and less crowded journey on at least part of the trip.
When travelling from La Spezia, you can buy your passes for Cinque Terre in a tourism office in a hallway off of platform 1 at the La Spezia station. The passes can also be obtained at Levanto and Montorosso stations. The day pass covers entry to the national park and unlimited train trips between Levanto and La Spezia for 24 hours from the time of validation which is significantly cheaper than the special one-way fare of 6-10 Euros within the Cinque Terre depending on the season. Trenitalia however also provides a mobile app which can be used for current schedules and to purchase regular tickets (available in English and supporting Apple Pay and PayPal).
By car
[edit]Take the 'litoranea' road from La Spezia. It takes approximately 20–30 minutes from La Spezia to drive to Riomaggiore or Manarola. There is a good parking garage in Riomaggiore, up the hill from the train station. The parking garage operates from 08:00 to 21:00. You will not be able to park in the garage after 21:00 but may find a few open spaces near the parking attendant office. The roads to and between the five towns are not for the faint of heart, and why most travelers are encouraged to leave their vehicle in La Spezia and take the train to the Cinque Terre.
Get around
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Frequent trains link all five villages with each other (Trenitalia-run trains as well as a train service run by the park authority), La Spezia and other places towards Genova (only Trenitalia-run).
A more expensive, but very scenic option, are the boats that run up and down this part of the coast.
Hiking is very popular, especially on the main coastal paths, which are subject to park entrance fees. It's worth exploring some of the higher paths to Volastra (above Manarola), Monte Negro (above Riomaggiore) or paths that begin outside of the park such as the trail between Levanto and Monterosso. Suitable hiking equipment and proper health are required, wearing flip-flops, pumps or sandals within the national park is explicitly - and for good reason - prohibited. Neglecting this may lead to fines between €50 and €2,500, depending on level of distress and whether a rescue team is necessary.
In order to walk along the trails between the villages, one must purchase a pass from information offices near the train stations at any of the five villages, as well as the stations at Levanto and La Spezia.It costs €7.50 for an adult, or €16 (as of October 2017) to get unlimited travel on the train between the villages, Levanto, and La Spezia on regional trains for the duration of the pass. The pass also allows you to use buses within Cinque Terre, as well as entry into various museums (with discounts in La Spezia). If you want to use only train between villages, ticket for one way between all five villages cost €5 and is valid for six hours.
Traveling by car is by far the worst way to explore the Cinque Terre, there is little parking and what there is lies well outside the villages. UNESCO forbids cars inside the villages so you will need to stay out of the heritage zone. To get from one village to the next involves driving all the way up to the high road and back down again. Better to leave the car and use the train.
See
[edit]The main attraction of the Cinque Terre is the landscape. Mediterranean herbs and trees grow spontaneously from the top of the hills down to the water level. Well embedded in this magnificent natural scenery, you can admire the intense human activity of the ancestors, when the wine terraces were built. An enormous (and somehow crazy) work of transportation, carrying all the heavy stones on men's shoulders and women's heads. A work through the centuries, in fact it's estimated to have taken about 200 years to build the entire stone-wall network. Its total length has been calculated to be at least equal to the Great Wall of China.
You can enjoy the scenery, walk through the towns (or between them), or hike on the paths and enjoy the local atmosphere.
Depending on the time of the year there are some specific things to see:
- The lighted Nativity in Manarola (Dec 8 to late Jan). The world's biggest Lighted nativity.
- The patron festivity of the 5 towns (all between late May and Aug), a mix of religious ceremony and popular parties.
- The pirates attack in Vernazza (mid-summer), a celebration of the successful defence of the town from a Saracen attack occurred during the middle age.
- The harvest (early/mid-Sep) and wine making, when men's shoulders and women's heads are still used as they were hundreds of years ago.
- The sea storms (frequent in winter), a great show of nature's power.
- Villages
Do
[edit]
Hiking
[edit]The Cinque Terre boasts some of the best coastline hiking trails in the world. Note that several of these routes are actual, somewhat demanding hikes, and not leisurely walkways. Proper equipment - especially suitable hiking footwear, sun protection and water - and a sufficient physical condition is mandatory. There are guidelines posted alongside the entrances which should be read and followed. In case of an emergency rescue due to improper equipment severe fines of up to 2500 Euros have been imposed.
Since Cinque Terre is an area prone to landslides, it's always better to check if the hiking paths are open or closed, before leaving. For the latest on whether the hiking trials are open or not, see the Official Parco Nazionale della Cinque Terre website. Other paths may be closed due to adverse weather conditions on short notice.
You must purchase a pass if you hike the trail number 2 (blue), while no pass is required for the other trails. It is also possible to purchase a hiking and train pass in one if you wish to catch a train to the next town. Trains are frequent but it is advisable to check local time tables especially on Sunday and Public holidays as you could be waiting up to an hour for the correct train. In June, July, and August, start the walk as early as possible to avoid the unforgiving midday sun.
The walk on the No. 2 trail between all the villages takes the better part of a day. For those that would rather not walk (or not walk the entire trail), a boat ferry service runs seasonally to all five villages, plus Lerici. The price is reasonable, and gives a nice view of the villages from the water. The regional train that connects all the villages is also a quick way to hop among towns.
If you are a more experienced hiker, take advantage of other trails that go higher up the mountain. These trails are well maintained, off the beaten path, and usually have fewer tourists. You can obtain detailed maps from any of the park offices. The paths number 7, 7/a and 6/d are particularly scenic and passing through nice vineyards and terraces.
Riomaggiore to Manarola
[edit]The path from Riomaggiore to Manarola is called the Via Dell'Amore (or roughly "Lovers Walk"). This is a paved path that is easy to walk for any age. Only the side starting from Manarola is wheelchair accessible. The Riomaggiore side starts with 2 flights of stairs. Along the way, passers-by have the opportunity to write their names on the walls of a gallery. Visitors should not scratch their names on trees or cactuses as this is damaging to the plants. Mid-way down the path, you will come across 'The Lover's Lock' which is a place to seal your eternal love. This custom follows the Italian fad that was started by the film Tre Metri Sopra il Cielo. At this point there is a 'love seat' in the shape of a male and female locked in a kiss, where many couples pose. 20 minutes. Closed after a landslide since 2012, to be reopened on August 9, 2024.
Manarola to Corniglia
[edit]The next hike from Manarola to Corniglia takes approximately 30 minutes. The path is not paved. To reach Corniglia town center there is an up hill hike and a large zig zag shaped staircase with 385 steps which can be quite a mission in the midday sun. 45 minutes.
Corniglia to Vernazza
[edit]The trail from Corniglia to Vernazza is longer and the terrain is uneven. The hike takes approximately 2 hours.
Vernazza to Monterosso
[edit]The trail from Vernazza to Monterosso is the steepest (you need a reasonably good level of fitness - there is over 250 m of climbing over very uneven rocks, about 750 steps), winding through olive orchards and vineyards and offering dramatic ocean views. The paths are narrow, with a very real danger of falling 3-4 m if you lose your footing. If you attempt this hike, take some water, and be prepared to build up a very decent sweat. 90 minutes.
Swimming
[edit]It is possible to swim in the sea at each of the villages. Almost every year the Cinque Terre Marine Reserve vies for the top of the Blue Flag Beach list of Italy. There are two large sandy beaches at Monterosso, a small sandy beach at the harbor of Vernazza, and pebble beaches near Riomaggiore and Corniglia. Off the beaten path there are pebble beaches in Framura and Bonasola just 20 minutes away on the train. You can swim off rocks at the small harbors at Manarola (which has a very nice and deep swimming hole) and Riomaggiore. Corniglia's small harbor is reached by a long staircase leading down to the sea. It is probably the quietest swimming spot of all the five lands because of this.
Eat
[edit]When grapevines and olive trees cover the hillsides, wine and oil are a must on our tables. They prove excellent companions for the salted anchovies of Monterosso served in olive oil as well as the many specialty fish dishes, authentic gastronomic delights.
The cuisine of the Cinque Terre almost perfectly conserves the characteristics of yesteryear; the respect for the flavors and fragrances of the primary ingredients.
- Trofie is a kind of pasta made from chestnut or wheat flour and is one of the forefathers of modern and more sophisticated pasta. Its condiment is still pesto sauce; an original Ligurian sauce made from basil leaves, extra virgin olive oil, grated cheese, pine nuts, and marjoram.
- Tagliatelle, a broad handmade pasta, is used with sauces that contain mushrooms, cabbage and potatoes, beans, chickpeas or sometimes with pesto.
- Vegetable pies, 'torte di verdura' are prepared with a stuffing containing borage (borago officinalis), parsley, marjoram, other local herbs that grow wild, artichokes, Swiss chard, zucchini, potatoes, and leeks are combined with egg and ricotta cheese or with stale bread soaked in milk or béchamel sauce (depending on each family's traditions), Parmesan cheese. The pie crust is very thin, because flour was a very precious commodity.
- Rice pie, or 'torta di riso' is a specialty of every grandma in the region. In Monterosso this rice pie was made even more delectable by adding a bit of dried mushrooms to the filling. In Manarola, the tradition is to make this dish for the feast of the patron saint Saint Lawrence on August 10.
- Egg 'frittate', or flat omelettes, are popular today as the 'frittata' has been rediscovered as a tasty antipasto.
Another important dish on the tables of the Cinque Terre population was the 'cotoletta di acciuga', anchovies stuffed with a breadcrumb based filling and then fried. The 'fritelle di bianchetti', fritters made from tiny newborn anchovies or sardines were also highly appreciated. Following the seamen's gastronomic traditions, other dishes included stewed cuttlefish, stuffed calamari and spiced octopus.
- Mussels, another protected designation of origin product from the Gulf of La Spezia are prepared in a variety of ways: stuffed, stewed, baked.
- Farinata, like a focaccia but made with chickpea flour. A regional speciality.
- Pizzeria Fratelli Basso on via Roma is one of only two places in town where you can eat farinata—like a focaccia but made with chickpea flour. The wood-fired pizzeria down the road will make it if they don't have any left.
Riomaggiore
- La Grotta
- Via Dell'Amore (across the railway station, their 'tourist menus' are actually quite OK)
Manarola
- Restaurant Il Porticciolo
- Da Billy
- Marina Piccola
- 5 Terre Gelateria e Creperia for extraordinarily delicious gelato
Vernazza
- Sa Pesta (Sa Pesta). A tiny little restaurant tucked in the old city, mostly frequented by locals. Sa Pesta has a long history of serving traditional Genovese food. Get the trofie al pesto, as well as some of their fresh baked farinata or other tortas. Go for lunch around 12:30 to get a table.
Drink
[edit]The fame of the Cinque Terre is largely due to its products, the dry white wine, simply called 'Cinque Terre' and the 'Sciacchetrà', a prized dessert wine made from prime grapes dried to the point of holding only a few drops of sweet juice. A colorful addition to the Cinque Terre products is 'limoncino'; a dessert wine made from steeping lemon peels in pure alcohol and then adding sugar and water to make a fragrant and fresh liquor. The lemons, another famous product of the Cinque Terre are prominently on display in the many 'limoneti' (lemon groves) and at the annual Lemon Festival held each year in Monterosso during the season of Pentecost.
The Sentieri dell'Uva (Grape Routes) are still as they once were with fig trees planted in strategic positions to give shade during breaks from work, agaves planted to mark boundaries, to line the footpaths along steep, stony steps and to indicate the rail terminals of the monorails which are the only vertical structures emerging from this seemingly completely, horizontal landscape. Many dry stone walls support this terraced landscape.
The large wicker baskets of grapes (corbe) are arranged along the "pose" (little walls, as wide as tables, built solely for this purpose). These include Albarola (Trebbiana), Biancorotto, Bruciapagliaio, Piccabon (Pizzamosca). To make white table wines the following are used: Fiore di Bosco, Rappolungo, Fogiaccia, Ruspara, and Sesagra. Baskets full of Magnagra (Albarola), from which the famous Black Sciacchetrà is made, are handled with extreme care and set to one side.
The Cinque Terre grape tracks reach down to the sea. In the past, people used to anchor small fishing boats called "gozzi" immediately below the terraced vineyards. Baskets laden with grapes were then lowered from above into these small boats which then sailed round to the otherwise inaccessible village.
Nowadays this method is nothing but a distant memory but by visiting the Cinque Terre you are still able to sample some of the most prized wines of the world that have been created by centuries of backbreaking experience.
Sleep
[edit]- Ostello Cinque Terre in Manarola is the largest hostel in the area. Book well in advance.
- Ostello Corniglia, in the historic center of Corniglia, has two small dorm rooms and private rooms.
- Ostello Tramonti is actually in Biassa, not any of the five towns, but is accessible by bus from La Spezia and Riomaggiore. A word of warning: the last bus up the mountain runs at about 8PM, and you don't want to hike up in the dark.
- Monastery of S. Bernardino, above Corniglia, offers accommodation for about €60 per room.
- Da Baranin B&B. Provides rooms with B&B treatment and apartments in Manarola.
- Alla Porta Rossa, Via Rollandi 246, ☏ 39 0187 920189, [email protected]. Great apartments in Manarola. €80-120.
- Bed&Breakfast Marisa. Nice family-house B&B in Monterosso.
- Cinque Terre Holidays hostel in Riomaggiore. €40/person, but these are rooms with a view! High up on a hill with a stone balcony overlooking the sea in front and a terraced mountainside on the side. Be warned that this hostel has gotten very mixed reviews on review sites.
- B&B La Torretta. Beautiful B&B with sea view in Manarola.
- The Heart of Cinque Terre. The only accommodation located along the blue path. Sea view, situated on a cliff that plunges into the sea, south-facing between Corniglia and Vernazza (hamlet 'Prevo'). It is the most highest and most impressive spot of Cinque Terre Blue Path (208 m. above sea level). Offers accommodation for €30 per person.
Campgrounds
[edit]There are a few campgrounds where you can rent a tent with two beds and linens for very low prices. Note that none are inside the national park area but quite a few can be found just to the north of the park in the touristy but pleasant town of Levanto. It's not advised to try wild camping, since it's illegal, and it can be dangerous due to the presence of wild boars roaming free in the park.
- Camping Acqua Dolce near the town center and about 200 meters from the beach.
- Pian di Picche a bit more inland, at about 1000 meters from the beach but closer to the railway station (at about 200 meters).
- Albero d'Oro situated next to Pian di Picche.
Other campsites can be found south of La Spezia and further north around Deiva Marina. Levanto is a better option though because it is serviced by the park-run train service connecting all five villages as stated earlier.
It's advisable to try to book in advance when arriving in late June, July and August since these sites tend to fill up quickly during the summer. Many hotels, including the hostel, are booked out months in advance.
Go next
[edit]As the weather gets warmer so does the evening life at local bars and restaurants on the weekends. Italian Holidays mean the hotels, restaurants and bars will be very busy. As summer sets in there is some nightlife in almost every village.
- Cantina dello Zio Bramante, in Manarola is a watering hole par excellence for the young locals, musicians and social minglers. The owners invite latin jazz bands or musician friends to play on weekend nights in the summertime. The tavern-like atmosphere has been known to transform itself into a late night dance party if the owner is in the mood.
- Pie de Ma Wine Bar Perched atop a cliff on the Via Dell'Amore (closer to the Riomaggiore side) this bar offers a sample of the best wines by the glass of the region. The owners are experienced cocktail artists and this is a draw for many Cinque Terre locals and La Spezia area people as well. The seating is in the open so the bar is closed November to February. In the summer they invite DJs, bands and dance groups to perform on their terrace overlooking the sea.