Antananarivo (AN-tan-AN-ah-REEV-oo) (City of a Thousand), also known as Tana, is the capital and largest city of Madagascar. It has more universities, nightclubs, art venues, and medical services than any other city on the island. Major historic landmarks and attractions in the city include the reconstructed royal palaces and the Andafiavaratra Palace, the tomb of Rainiharo, Tsimbazaza Zoo, Mahamasina Stadium, Lake Anosy, four 19th-century martyr cathedrals, and the Museum of Art and Archaeology.

Understand

Central Antananarivo, including Lake Anosy

A city of some 1.6 million people at 1280 m, Antananarivo became established by Merina King Andrianjaka around 1610, when he drove out the Vazimba people to create the Kingdom of Imerina. First called Analamanga, the city was renamed Antananarivo, meaning city of the thousand, later by King Andriamasinavalona, in honor of his soldiers. After a period of French rule starting in 1897 and a failed armed rebellion in 1947–1948, the city and country emerged as independent in 1960. Merina and other Malagasy people along with Chinese, Indian, and Europeans live in the city today.

Climate

Antananarivo
Climate chart (explanation)
J F M A M J J A S O N D       326     26 17       255     26 17       160     26 17       50     25 16       16     24 14       4     21 12       6.5     21 11       7.6     21 11       9.4     24 12       42     26 14       112     27 16       212     27 17 Average max. and min. temperatures in °C Precipitation Snow totals in mm Souce: World Meteorological Organization/Directorate General of Meteorology (Méteo Madagascar)
Imperial conversion J F M A M J J A S O N D       13     80 63       10     79 63       6.3     79 63       2     78 60       0.6     75 57       0.2     71 53       0.3     69 51       0.3     71 52       0.4     75 54       1.6     78 57       4.4     80 60       8.3     80 62 Average max. and min. temperatures in °F Precipitation Snow totals in inches

Antananarivo has a mountainous temperate climate, despite being situated in the tropics, due to its high elevation of 1,300–1,400 m (4,265 to 4,593 ft) above sea level. Antananarivo receives practically all of its average annual 1,400 mm (55.1 in) of rainfall between November and April. The dry season between May and October is pleasant and sunny, although somewhat chilly, especially during the nights, and in the mornings and evenings. Although frosts are rare in Antananarivo, they are common at higher elevations. The daily and monthly temperature variations are quite small. Means range from 22.2 °C (72.0 °F) to 15.3 °C (59.5 °F).

Get in

Antananarivo is the main entry point for Madagascar by air. International flights to the capital are covered in the main Madagascar page.

By plane

1 Ivato International Airport (TNR  ^IATA). Antananarivo's major airport. It is served by Ethiopian Airlines, Turkish Airlines, Air France, Air Mauritius, and Kenya Airways. During high season, expect lengthy queues, numerous forms to fill out and chaotic handling for hygiene check, visa purchase and immigration. Once you get past baggage claim, expect a mass of individuals pestering you to "help" you with your luggage or to show you how to find a taxi (evidence of the country's 25% unemployment rate). The "porters" are particularly bad, so hold on to your bags and load them yourself into your transport; anyone who can get a hand on your bag will then follow you demanding remuneration. If you do need help with your luggage, it is wise to arrange an airport pick-up before arrival. However, in the shoulder season and beyond there is a much calmer and more relaxed atmosphere at the airport with few to no porters left, helpful taxi drivers, and fast, friendly but still somewhat chaotic immigration services. (updated Jul 2023)

There are two ATMs: MCB (Mastercard and Visa) and BFV-Société Générale (Mastercard and Visa) — in the international terminal. There are 24 hour exchange windows inside the international terminal and outside of the airport in a separate building adjacent to the parking lot.

Transport in a private vehicle to the city center will cost 60,000–80,000 Ar (June 2023) – costs will be at the high end of the cost spectrum after daylight hours. It will take a half hour in the late evening and early morning to reach the city center, and usually more than an hour during other times when the roads are congested; if you are transiting through Tana overnight, consider a hotel near the airport.

• The taxi brousse is an incredibly cheap option, and should cost 2×800=1600 Ar from the airport to downtown. You need to take two seats: one for you and one for your bag (if you can't/don't want to balance it on your lap for an hour). Look for the mini buses with a big red D sign on them.
• Tsara Car Rental, ☏ 261 34 59 036 39, [email protected]. Provides airport shuttle service with shared ride or private; 1–7 passengers aboard van. Shared: 20,000 Ar per person; private: 50,000 Ar for 1–3 passengers, 110,000 Ar for 4–7 passengers. 

By road

Taxi Tana

For travelling by road, there are three options: a private vehicle hire, a scheduled bus service or taxi brousse (bush taxi).

Vehicles can be hired through various agencies in Antananarivo. Individuals that work as freelance driver-guides will also approach you while you walk around in the streets or sit in a café. Budget €60 per day if you wish to hire a driver, and clarify how the driver's expenses (food, accommodation) is handled if you hire the car for trips that last more than one day. You may need to sign a "contract" to be shown to police officers that may stop the car at checkpoints along the road. It is allowed to check the technical state of the vehicle before you agree.

There are several companies that operate scheduled bus services between Antananarivo and larger towns of Madagascar.

• 2 Cotisse Transport, IVM 12 TER AT, Ambodivona, ☏ 261 32 11 027 33, [email protected]. 06:00–20:30. Daily services to Mahajanga, Morondava, Fianarantsoa, Toamasina, Antsiranana. vehicles in three categories. Departs on time even if the vehicle is not full. Does not take passengers along the route (unless the passenger has bought a ticket). The Mercedes Sprinter vehicles are in a better state than taxi-brousses. Entertainment (Malagasy pop music) and free Wi-Fi on board. Timetables and prices are published on the web page; additional buses are run if demand is high. Requires the passengers to arrive one hour before departure; the hour can be spent in a decent restaurant with very clean toilets next to Cotisse's premises. Book ahead. (updated Jun 2023)
• 3 Transpost, Rue Ratsimilaho, ☏ 261 22 302 27. M–F 08:00–16:00; Sa 08:00–12:00. Early-morning services to Mahajanga three times a week. Inquire at the central post office. (updated Nov 2017)
• Besady Plus buses to Nosy Be and Sainte Marie Via Ambanja and Toamasina. Tickets includes sea transfer. All Besady Plus buses have free Wi-Fi and go on time.
• Malagasycar Transport Premiere Classe ☏ 261-32-03-18888 or ☏ 261-34-12-58888. Antananarivo from Mahajanga Ambanja (Ankify port nosy be)
• Casycar VIP Transport has 5 seat cars going from Antananarivo to Antsirabe. They depart 6 times a day from Hotel Chalet des roses in Antananarivo city center. The fare is 26,000 Ar. Saves you having to get a taxi out to the bus terminal.

The taxis-brousses link the capital to most other towns and depart from four major bus stations, which roughly correspond to the points of the compass, i.e. the northern bus station includes destinations such as Nosy Be and Antsiranana (Diego-Suarez), while the eastern one (Gare Routiere de l'est) has destinations such as Andasibe. If you don't know which one you need ask a taxi driver to take you to the right one for your location.

On arrival to the station you will be mobbed by touts trying to sell the services of every destination and route. Don't be intimidated as they do this to all arrivals to the station, local and tourist alike; rather look for a vehicle that seems reliable to you and which is almost full. Most stations are lined with ticket kiosk with signs overhead advertising their locations. On the wall inside there should be a price list advertising locations, so make sure you don't pay more than this (and remember luggage is included). You can also ask to be dropped off on route before the final destination. After buying your ticket, the bus may not leave for a long time, as they will only leave when full. Try and avoid the back row of seating, this generally has the least leg room; you may buy an extra ticket (i.e. three tickets for two persons) if you want to have more space.

• 4 Gare routière du Nord (Northern bus station), Along Rue Docteur Raboto Raphael. Destinations include Antsiranana/Diego-Suarez (for Ankarana), Ambanja (for Nosy Be), Mahajanga (for Ankarafantsika) and Antsohihy among others. The minibuses line both sides of a road and display their location on a poster on the front. There is a public toilet at one end of the street and a number of street food vendors. For Ankarana National Park catch a bush-taxi with a destination of Antsiranana and ask to get dropped off by the park entrance. This involves a very painful 20 hour journey (~65,000 Ar in January 2012). You will likely stop over in Ambanja for half an hour (~14 hours into the journey). Ambanja is also where you need to change for Nosy Be. For Ankarafantsika National Park catch a taxi to Mahajanga and ask to be dropped off at the park (~9 hours, 30,000 Ar in January 2012). 
• 5 Gare Routiere de l'est (Eastern Bus Station). Destinations include Moramanga (for Andasibe). Bush taxis depart from this comparatively modern station which includes an official kiosk where all tickets are bought from. There's also a toilet which costs a few ariary to use (amusingly it costs more for a 'pipi' than a 'caca' and you have to specify before you go in). You can buy food from street vendors or a snacks from a nearby petrol station. For Andasibe-Mantadia National Park travel first to Moramanga (5,000 Ar as of January 2012, 4 hours) then catch a connecting bus to Andasibe village (1000 Ar, 2 hours). Buses leave regularly, up to every hour. 
• Farakana bus station. Destinations include Mananjary, Morondava and Ambositra among many more. This dusty station has a number of kiosks from which to buy tickets, and a few cafes where you can pass the time waiting. It's next to a market. For Ranomafana National Park catch a bus with an end destination of Mananjary or one of the other cities south of here. Journey time is about 14 hours (~60,000 Ar in January 2012.) These run less frequently with some services leaving in the afternoon. Don't worry if you get dropped off in the village in the middle of the night, at least one hotel, (Palmeria) has a night guard who can sort out a room for you. This is also the bus station wanted for Anja Reserve (~11 hours, 35,000 Ar in January 2012) and Isalo National Park. Most the buses will stop off in Ambositra where you can get a meal or use the toilet. 

By rail

The colonial central station, 6 Gare Soarano, is located on Arabe Rainibertsimisaraka, at the northwestern end of Avenue de l'Independence. It has been converted into a small shopping mall as it sees no or very little passenger traffic. If the train to Toamasina runs, then it is not a mode of transport but an adventure for the lovers of rail transportation. Inquire at the decent Café de la gare.

Get around

The city centre is focused on Avenue de L'Independence. Restaurants and shops line both sides of the road and it's the place to go if you want to visit a restaurant or decent cafe, including a good pizzeria and a take-away pizza restaurant. There are also internet cafes and photo-printing facilities.

There are three main methods of navigating the capital: taxi, bus and on foot.

• Taxis are preferred by most tourists and can be found easily. There are no meters, agree the rate with the driver before entering the taxi. Expect to be quoted 5,000 Ar for a short ride in town and 20,000 Ar for a longer ride; a one-way trip to the airport will be 40,000–60,000 Ar. 60,000 at night. A taxi can be hired for half a day or a day, expect to be quoted 150,000 Ar for half a day. You can bargain. That traffic tends to be heavy in Analakely (Antananrivo's centre and busiest area) during typical rush hour times, allow for extra time if you need to pass that area on your way to the airport.
• Taxi-bes typically are old and smoky Mercedes-Benz TN that go along a defined, numbered route. If you are comfortable being squeezed onto a van with other people, the buses, or Taxi-be, are the most affordable form of transportation, with prices around 600 Ar. There is no plan of the route system, nor is there a timetable, only locals use Taxi-be.
• While the city is quite large, Analakely is fairly navigable on foot. Prepare for a slalom around market stalls, cars, holes and other obstacles, don't carry anything you need, in particular valuables.

See

Crocodile of Croc'Farm

The city is really attractive and a photographers dream. The architecture is a mix of French countryside and Indonesia. Rice paddies scattered all over the city add a brilliant green to the pastel terracotta of the buildings.

• 1 Rova (Queen's palace). Royal palace complex and former residence of the rulers of the Merina Kingdom. A cab ride (or very long walk) from the hotel district, but be warned that it has been severely fire damaged by suspected arson in the late 1990s, and only the stone shell remains, together with some outbuildings, statues and a chapel (the latter rebuilt with American money). Inte and then native Tana guides (usually university students with good English or French) may give a good account of the Rova's features in return for a gratuity. The site offers good panoramic views of the city. While walking up the hill towards the palace you may be told by local guides that the Rova is shut for the day and to follow them elsewhere to a different attraction but the likelihood is that the gate will be open as normal. 

  

  Andafiavaratra Palace

• 2 Prime Minister's Palace (Andafiavaratra Palace) (Near the Rova). Sa-Th 10:00-17:00. The palace of the prime minister during the reigns of the last queens is now a museum with an exhibition of precious items saved from the fire of the Rova in 1995, such as the red jacket of Radama I, the royal coral jewels, various royal portraits and the diadem of the last queen. 3,000 Ar. (updated Sep 2016)
• 3 Lemurs' Park, Route Nationale n°1, PK 22, Katsaoka Imerintsiatosika - Route d'Ampefy (25 km West of Antananarivo on RN1), ☏ 261 20 22 234 36. 09:00 - 17:00, last admittance 16:00. A conservation park established by a French-Japanese charity which hosts mostly lemurs rescued from illegal captivity or attempted smuggling. It aims at reintroducing a part of their animals into their natural habitat. Over 6000 trees have been planted in this 5 hectare park preserving a lot of important flora and fauna of Madagascar. The park gives an opportunity to see at close range a variety of lemurs, which would be much more difficult in one of Madagascar's National Parks or in a Western zoo. Apart from lemurs, it has cameleons, turtles and several species of birds. The park also gives valuable employment to graduates from the local university as guides and free tours to local school children. Taking a guide is compulsory. Carry local cash as they do not accept cards. There is no public transport back from the park (taxi-brousses into town are mostly full when they pass here), so hire a taxi for the round trip; the park also offers the service of picking you up in town (see webpage). 35,000 Ar/person including the guide. (updated Oct 2018)
• 4 Croc Farm (10 minutes car ride from Ivato Airport,about 30 minutes' drive (25 km) outside Antananarivo), ☏ 261 20 22 030 71. 09:00-17:00. Located on more than 3 hectares of plants, trees and flowers of Madagascar. You can watch the crocodiles, 80 other species of animals (turtles, snakes, lemurs...) and the smallest chameleon in the world. The best time to see crocodiles in action is during feeding time. And for the brave, the Croc'Farm restaurant preparing several crocodile meat dishes and favorite dish is the "Croc burger". As the park also breeding crocodile for leather goods, you'll find in the shop belts, bags but also the Malagasy crafts. 25,000 Ar. 
• 5 Botanical and Zoological Garden of Tsimbazaza. 09:00-17:00. Zoo and herbarium with animal skeletons on display too. (updated Aug 2020)
• 6 Cathedrale catholique d Andohalo, Lalana Justin Rajoro, ☏ 261 202220726. Cathedral with a big statue of Mary that was built in 1890. (updated Aug 2020)
• 7 Museum of Art and Archaeology (Le Musée d'Art et d'Archéologie) (on campus of University of Antananarivo). Tu-Sa 10:00-16:00. kind of small. (updated Aug 2020)
• 8 Independence Avenue (Avenue de L'Independence) (3GVF P72, Av. de L'Independance, Ryvan, Antananarivo). A 1-kilometre (0.62 mi) lane and main shopping street with several hotels, restaurants and offices. There is a nearby national monument that commemorates the events of the Malagasy Uprising against French colonial rule in 1947. (updated Feb 2023)

Do

The Lemur Park, 45 minutes out of Tana, is well worth a visit and for gourmets there are some surprisingly good restaurants.

• Jean Be Tours, Lot IVD 63 Ter AA, Ambohibahiny, Ankaraobato, ☏ 261 34 17 478 38, [email protected]. Jean Be Tours is a concierge travel guide service. The owner Jean is an experienced tour guide for Madagascar who speaks English and French. On individually organized trips, one can meet local people, take photographs and collect souvenirs and memories. 
• Mada-Liberté Off Road Motorcycle Tours in Madagascar (4WD Off Road Tours). (updated Feb 2023)

Buy

Shops line both sides of Avenue de L'Independence. Shops for the Maki and Baobab clothing brand shops can be found a few streets away. The main attraction for this area is the large central market (Aanalakey Market), which includes a covered section selling bags, jewellery and clothing at relatively cheap prices (remember to haggle). Outside there's a plethora of fruit, vegetable and spice stalls, where large packs of vanilla pods can be bought. If you do not want to bargain then try Lisy, a collection of shops with similar produce to the market at excellent prices.

• 1 Analakely Market, Arabe Rahezavana. Daily 06:00-18:00. Central market with lots of fruits, local artifacts, unique souvenirs, etc. Be careful for your personal belongings. (updated Aug 2020)

Outside the centre there is a dedicated tourist market which has some thirty stalls selling souvenirs and local crafts. Definitely worth a visit.

There are many large western style supermarkets notable the chains Shoprite, 'Jumboscore', Leader price. and Supermaki. Any taxi driver can take you to one. However, most stock is imported from abroad and so include a significant mark up (although most goods are still below European prices). For fresh goods like fruit and vegetables, significant savings can be made by buying them from the local markets stalls dotted throughout the city.

Shopping malls and supermarkets

• Super U Supermarkets, Rue James Adrianisa. 08:00–20:00. Super U has many stores all over Antanarivo. lower price. (updated Jun 2023)
• 2 Tana Water Front Mall, ☏ 261 34-2596840. 09:00–20:00. Shopping mall with a food court and Super U Hypermarket. (updated Jun 2023)
• 3 Leader Price hypermarket, Ankorondrano. 09:00–19:30. many stores in Antananarivo. (updated Jun 2023)
• 4 Jumbo Score Hypermarket, Enceinte cora Ankorondrano, ☏ 261-20-2268456. 09:30-19:30. A large hypermarket. (updated Jun 2023)
• 5 L A City Mall, Alarobia (3 km north of downtown). 09:30-19:30. This is the largest shopping mall in Tana with 52 stores. There are stores for Orange, Airtel and Telma, there is also a Madagascar Airlines office and a Super U Hypermarket. (updated Apr 2018)
• 6 Akoor Digue Shopping mall, Amkazomanga. 09:00-19:00. a mall with a Jumbo score Hypermarket. has a bank with an ATM. (updated Apr 2018)
• 7 Supermaki. 07:00-23:00. A large chain of convenience stores all over Madagascar. (updated Jun 2023)

Banks and ATMs

Most banks have an ATM, although they often limit you to how much you can draw out at once. It's relatively simple to change money from euros and dollars to ariary, and you often get a better rate than at the airport. Some banks will also accept pound sterling.

• 8 BNI Bank, Arabenny 26 Jona 1960. 24 hours. BNI ATMs take Mastercard and Visa cards. Their website shows all their ATM locations. (updated Jun 2023)
• 9 BFV-Société Générale bank. 24 hours. BFV-SG ATMs take Mastercard (including Maestro debit cards), Visa card, Diners Club, American Express, and Discover Cards. Their website shows all their ATM locations. (updated Jun 2023)
• 10 Bank of Africa, Arabe Andrinampoinimeina. 24 hours. BOA ATMs take only Visa card. (updated Jun 2023)
• 11 MBC Mauritius Commercial Bank, RUE Solombavambohaka Frantsay 77. 24 hours. MBC ATMs take Mastercard, Visa card, Diners Club, Discover cards. (updated Jun 2023)
• AccesBanque. ATM 24 hours. Mastercard and Visa card. (updated Jun 2023)
• BMOI. ATM 24 hours. BMOI ATMs only take Visa card. (updated Jun 2023)

Eat

• 1 La Table de Mariette, 11 rue George-V-Faravohitra, ☏ 261 20 22 216 02. This is a good choice for high quality Malagasy food. More expensive than many other restaurants. 
• 2 Ile Bourbon. 
• 3 La Brasserie at the France Hotel, 34 Ave de l'Independence. Very good and inexpensive. Try the calamari. Also vegetarian (non vegan) dishes, a very cheesy veg lasagne for 13,000 Ar. 
• 4 Grill De Rova, Near Palace de Rova. Small menu. Great Zebu! 
• 5 KudeTa, 16 rue de la Reunion, ☏ 261 20 22 281 54. A slick setting for excellent French-influenced Malagasy food. 
• 6 Jasmin, Palace Analakely 101 Antananarivo (behind BNI bank). Lovely veg meal with tofu. Perhaps a bit pricey. €7 for two courses and drink. 

Drink

THB is everywhere

• Lots of bottled water (no tap water!), the main brand is Pura Vida, relatively expensive, with a 1.5-L bottle costing about 3000 Ar
• THB (Three Horses Beer). Multi-awarded beer.
• Madagascar wine — variable but so much cheaper than the alternative (imported French wine).
• Bonbon Anglais — very sweet soft drink with bubble gum flavor, similar to South American Inka Cola. Excellent if you mix it with a little bit of THB. You may be presented with this when asking for limonade.
• Betsa-betsa — alcohol made from coconut water. Stronger than beer but not quite as potent as hard liquor.
• Litchel (or Vin Litchi in French) — lychee wine. Some brands are off-dry and quite nice, others are sickeningly sweet.
• Saint Claude — a local brand of rum with a hint of vanilla.

Sleep

Budget

• 1 Madagascar Underground Backpackers Hostel, 18 Lalana Rainitovo, ☏ 261-34-90907. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. 6-bed dorms and double rooms. A clean place for backpackers and travellers. Dorm beds 45,000 Ar per person. Double rooms from 55000-80,000 Ar. (updated Jun 2023)
• 2 Hotel Moonlight, 62 Rue Rainandriamampandry, ☏ 261 20 22-26870. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Single and double rooms with a TV, Wi-Fi, free coffee. Some rooms have bathrooms outside the room. Two communal terraces. from 30,000 till 55,000 Ar. (updated Jun 2023)
• 3 Hotel Niaouly, Laiana Tsiombikibo, ☏ 261 20-2262765. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. 22 single/double rooms. with own bathroom free Wi-Fi. some rooms have a balcony overlooking the Ambohijatovo garden. on the ground floor you will find a lounge with satellite tv. Bar. Restaurant. hotel reception is open 24 hours. From 55,000. (updated Jun 2023)
• 4 Hotel Chez Francis, Soarano, ☏ 261-20-2261365. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. 12 single/double rooms with own bathroom. has free Wi-Fi. From 55,000 Ar. (updated Jun 2023)
• 5 El Mundo Hotel, Lalana Ranafits Rahoerason (at the bottom of the steps.), ☏ 261 345091015. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. A clean double room with own hot water bathroom. Friendly owners. Free Wi-Fi. 35,000 Ar. (updated Jun 2023)
• 6 Aina Hotel, 17 Lalana Ratsimilaho, ☏ 261 20-2263051. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. A clean nice size double room with own hot water bathroom. Cable TV. Fast Wi-Fi. Can pay with a mastercard. 10% discount if you stay five nights or more. 76,000 Ar. (updated Apr 2023)
• 7 Andravoahangy hotel, Rue Me Albertini (not far from the Cotisse bus terminal and Tana waterfront mall). Clean double room with own bathroom. Free Wi-Fi. 35,000 Ar. (updated Jun 2023)
• 8 Villa Ny Telomiova, Imerinafovoany-talatamaty Lot 5B (6 km from the airport on the highway in too Antananarivo.), ☏ 261-20-2465616. Check-in: 24 hours, check-out: 12:00. A nice clean place with friendly owner and free Wi-Fi. There is a Super U and banks with ATMs just up the road. dorm bed 30,000Ar. (updated Jun 2023)
• 9 Manoir Rouge, Ivato airport (1 km (10 minutes walk) from airport), ☏ 261 32-0526097. Check-in: 24 hours, check-out: 12:00. There is a Supermaki and BFV bank nearby. Hotel arranges airport transfers for 15,000 Ar (2023). dorm bed €4, single room €7, double room €9 (shared bath) or €15 (private bath). (updated Jun 2023)

Mid-range

• 10 Le Logis. Résidence Hôtel. 75,000 Ar. 
• 11 Karibotel (boulevard independence). Good alternative for Sakamange. More locals than tourists. €40 for double. 
• 12 La Maison du Pyla. This bed and breakfast is popular with researchers and NGOs, which makes for interesting conversation at meal times. The owner bakes homemade bread at breakfast time and is very attentive to guest needs and can help with travel arrangements including airport shuttles and reservation confirmations. The three-story building is a bit old, but is kept clean and in good repair. Meals are generous, the Wi-Fi works well, and the homemade infused rums are well worth a try. 105,000 Ar for a double room with ensuite bathroom. (updated Oct 2014)
• 13 Relais des Plateaux, Lot 66 B Antanetibe Ivato, ☏ 261 32 0567893. The main draw of this hotel is its location ten minutes from the airport and its free shuttle, saving travelers with stopovers the headache of spending an hour in traffic trying to reach a downtown hotel. It is clean, has a pool, a decent restaurant, hot showers, working Wi-Fi, and the amenities one would expect in a good hotel. The downside is that it is very expensive for what you get, with small, pod-like rooms, no extra amenities, and little to see or do in the immediate neighborhood. 381,000 Ar for a double, 530,000 Ar for a deluxe room. Day-use prices are 214,000 Ar and 304,000 Ar for a double or deluxe room, respectively. (updated Dec 2014)
• 14 La Ribaudière. A good mid-range option. Very popular, good restaurant. 
• 15 A L'Hotel, Vf 12 Ankazotokana Ambanidia (next door to BFV-SG Bank Ambanidia), ☏ 261 32 05 536 86. Simple and cheap. Near historical monument. 23 double rooms with own hot water bathroom cable TV. Safe box in every room. Free Wi-Fi. Has a restaurant. 
• 16 Sakamanga, ☏ 261 20 22 358 09, [email protected]. A good mid-range option in the center of the downtown area, but secluded from the streets. Rooms have air conditioning, Wi-Fi works well, there is a very nice pool, and the restaurant/bar serves drinks and light meals. Very popular, so book ahead. 32 rooms, reception open 24 hours. €19-98, breakfast not included, Visa accepted. 

Splurge

The two best known accommodations in the capital are the Colbert (pronounced like the Comedy Central show!) and the Carlton (formerly Hilton). However, in addition to being well known, these hotels are quite expensive, especially relative to other accommodations.

• 17 Hotel Carlton Madagascar, Rue Pierre Stibbe-Anosy 959. This hotel is a member hotel of Summit Hotels & Resorts. It is a great hotel by European standards. The Carlton has 2 restaurants (Cafe Charly is reportedly excellent), 2 bars and an internet cafe, some rooms have nice views of the lake, and it is near the football (soccer) stadium. 170 rooms. (updated Sep 2019)
• 18 Hotel Colbert. French-run, and close to the government ministries. Aid workers and French government folks will customarily stay there. There are old and new wings, the old wing is certainly inferior to the Carlton, the new wing on a par or better. The Colbert has a lovely spa, two restaurants and a coffee shop/patisserie. The efficient and knowledgeable staff will help you navigate the challenges of the city. 140 rooms. 

Stay safe

• Beware of dogs! Tana is loaded with stray dogs, some of whom will occasionally harass passers-by for scraps or bark, growl and chase humans off their territory. If accosted by a stray dog, look for a rock or bottle or something to throw at it, then let fly. If nothing is available start screaming and clapping your hands. If this doesn't work, run. These animals also leave their marks behind… many locals refer to Tana as "Antaybe" (place of much poop).
• Beggars can also be a nuisance, especially groups of children. A polite but firm "Non, merci" or "Tsy misy (tsee meesh)" (add "Tompoko (toom-pook)" when speaking to anyone older than you) should do the trick. If not, shout "Mandehana! (man-day-han)" (Go Away!). Try to avoid handing out cash, candy or trinkets to children, it simply encourages more begging.
• Be wary of groups of older children begging in the centre, they may try and snatch exposed jewellery or bags.
• Don't be alarmed by taxis or vehicles with holes in the floor, springs poking out of the seats, missing mirrors or broken windows. Malagasy motor vehicles may not be much to look at and not much fun to ride in, but for the most part they run well and the engines are well-maintained.
• In daylight hours you should be fine, as long as you don't carry too many valuables. Use common sense.

Cope

Embassies and consulates

• Egypt, LOT MD 378 Ambalatokanana Mandrosoa Ivato, ☏ 261 20-22-454-99, fax: 261 20-22-453-79. 
• Greece, Β.P. 1442, Antananarivo, Madagascar, ☏ 261 20-22-394-40, fax: 261 20-22-394-44. 
• Japan, Villa Chrysantheme III, Ambohijatovo-Analamahitsy, ☏ 261 20-22-493-57. 
• Romania, Immeuble Regus Batiment A1 Explorer Business Park, Village des Jeux Ankorondrano, ☏ 261 202 25 12 12, 261 202 25 12 22, [email protected]. Honorary Consulate (Does not provide consular services. Instead, Romanian citizens in need of assistance should contact the embassy in Pretoria, South Africa or the embassy of another European Union member state.). 
• 1 United States, Lot 207 A, Point Liberty, Andranoro, Antehiroka, ☏ 261 20 23 480 00. 

Go next

Travel out of the capital is by two modes: road or air. As of 2017 there is no passenger rail service from the capital. Road transport is by bus to limited destinations, taxi-brousse (shared taxi) to a variety of destinations or by car rental (usually with driver). Although travel by taxi-brousse is guaranteed to try one's patience and sanity, there is quite possibly no better way to meet and interact with the locals and experience Madagascar as the Malagasy do. Air travel is the recommended method, due to the poor state of many roads, and Antananarivo is the hub city for the national carrier Madagascar Airlines.

Recommended next stops are Morondava and Nosy Be.