Justacorps

Luis Francisco de la Cerda (later Duke of Medinaceli) in a red justacorps with horizontal pockets and lavish decoration, c. 1684.

A justacorps or justaucorps (/ˈʒuːstəkɔːr/) is a knee-length coat worn by men in the latter half of the 17th century and throughout the 18th century. It is of French origin, and was introduced in England as a component of a three-piece ensemble, which also included breeches and a long vest or waistcoat. This ensemble served as the prototype of the frock coat, which in turn evolved into the modern-day three-piece suit. The fabric selection and styling of the justacorps varied over time, as fashions altered through history.

Origins

The justacorps evolved from the European "casaque", a garment that resembled a short cape reaching to the hips which became fashionable during Louis XIII's time for protection from the elements. The casaque was a travellers' or military cloak with separate front, back and shoulder pieces that could be worn as a semicircular cape or as a jacket. Soldiers found the casaque impractical for handling muskets and swords, leading the military to redesign it to fit the torso with buttons and extend the sleeves with cuffs. This new garment, called the "juste-au-corps," offered greater freedom of movement and caught the eye of Louis XIV, whose pormotion of the garmentin a royal sanction made it popular among civilians. By 1670, Furetière noted that the justaucorps was originally worn only by soldiers. For instance, in 1662, Lambert Closse, sergeant-major of the Montreal garrison, wore a "casaque in the style of a justaucorps.

The coat became known as the justacorps or cassock due to its similarity to the vestments worn by priests. Especially in its less elaborate forms, the garment was also known as a "casaque", or cassock, alluding to similarly-shaped clerical garments. In became popular during Louis XIII's time for protection from the elements.

17th century

It replaced the doublet, a previously popular shorter style of coat. In the 17th century the justacorps was worn to the knee, covering an equal length vest and breeches underneath. It opened center front, typically having many buttons and buttonholes lining the entire length of the opening. The sleeves were fitted, and featured deep cuffs. Some styles of the justacorps remained fitted throughout the bodice, though other versions feature a more accentuated, flared skirt through the addition of gores and pleats. Justacorps also featured decorative pockets, often placed too low for the wearer to take functional advantage. Worn primarily by aristocratic, wealthy men, justacorps were very ornate in design and made of luxurious fabrics. Colourful silk, satin, brocade, damask, and wool were commonly used textiles. Justacorps often were accented with contrasting fabrics of different colours and patterns, displayed through turned back cuffs or a decorative sash worn across the shoulders. By the early 18th century, the silhouette of the justacorps had become wider, with a fuller skirt, and laid the foundation for men's fashion throughout the rest of the century.

18th century

In the first half of the 18th century, the justacorps altered in appearance. The garment's opening remained at center front, however the buttons only extended to the waist area, allowing extra room for the extension of a fuller skirt. The cuffs became tighter and no longer folded back, and pockets were functional, located at a more accessible, hip-level region. The opening of the justacorps was rounded towards the mid chest, and flared away from the body.

In the second half of the 18th century, the justacorps skirt decreased in fullness, becoming narrower. A straight edge, similar to 17th-century-style openings, replaced the rounded opening of the coat, and sleeves reverted to a deep, turned back cuff. Textiles for the justacorps varied by use. Durable fabrics, like wool, were used in ordinary, everyday situations, and typically had less ornamentation compared to ones worn in elegant, formal settings. These coats were made of ornate fabrics like silk and brocade, and decorated with elaborate embroidery and lace.

The justacorps should be distinguished as different from the frock coat, which was less ornate, differed in cut and silhouette, and not worn popularly until the late 18th century.

See also

• 1650–1700 in fashion
• 1700–1750 in fashion

References

Sources

• Ribeiro, Aileen (2005). Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England. New Haven, US; London: Yale University Press. ISBN 0-300-10999-7.
• Tortora, Phyllis G.; Eubank, Keith (2010). Survey of Historic Costume: A history of Western dress. New York: Fairchild Publications. ISBN 978-1-56367-806-6.

Further reading

• Condra, Jill, ed. (2008). The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history. Vol. 1: Prehistory to 1500CE. Westport, Connecticut (US): Greenwood Press. ISBN 978-0-313-33664-5. OCLC 156808055.
• de Marly, Diana J. A.; Laver, James (11 June 2024). "Dress – European Fashion, 1500–1800". Encyclopaedia Britannica. Between 1665 and 1670 came a quite different masculine style that presaged the three-piece suit of modern times. Initiated in France, this began as a knee-length coat called a justaucorps, an idea deriving from the Persian caftan. It had no collar and was worn open in front. The short sleeves ended in cuffs.
• Larimore, Jules (January 21, 2022). "How Louis XIV Changed French Society with Haute Couture". THE HUGUENOT TRILOGY Author's blog.
• Payne, Blanche (1965). History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century. New York: Harper & Row.
• Picken, Mary Brooks (1957). The Fashion Dictionary. New York: Funk & Wagnalls.
  • The Fashion Dictionary: Fabric, sewing, and apparel as expressed in the language of fashion. New York: Funk & Wagnalls. 1973. ISBN 978-0-308-10052-7. ISBN 0-308-10052-2.

External links

• Media related to Justaucorps at Wikimedia Commons
• The dictionary definition of justacorps at Wiktionary