File:Doon Valley, Dehradun, 1850s.jpg

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To the European tourist unsatiated by previous wanderings among the wild and magnificent scenery of the Himalaya, the varied and extensive views obtained from the Mussooree hilla, afford daily sourebs of healthy and picturesque enjoyment. Among these heights, rugged and sometimes~ intricate footpaths conduct to points from whence the range of vision embraces romantic glens and amphitheatres of rocks, scattered over the beautiful valley of Deyrah Dholon, which stretches out in the distance, intersected by the Ganges, pursuing its course towards the plains in devious windings that occasionally burst into sight, and glitter in the sunlike streams of molten silver. Beyond this, the eye ranges boundlessly over space, the distance being softened into the tint of the atmosphere, and rendering it impossible to distinguish the line of horizon that separates the heavens from the earth.

The close vicinity of the valleys of Kearda and Devrah Dhoon to Mussooree, renders the latter station particularly eligible for parties who seek excitement in the pursuit of tigers. The surrounding forests abound with bears, leopards, and wild elephants, but they live w comparative safety, since the coverts are so heavy, and so completely cut up by deep and precipitous ravines, that they are inaccessible to tbe mounted sportsman. Lower dowa, however, where the tiger chiefly roams, elephanits may be brought against the tawny monarch of the wilds. A battue of this kind, when there are several elephants in the field, and a proportionate number of scouts and beaters, affords a wild and animated picture, in strict keeping with the jungle scenery. The adventures of a small party of Europeans from Mussooree, in connection with a tiger hunt in this locality, are always a source of interest; and the story of one expedition of the kind may be described in illustration of the fact.

When arranging of a field-day among the denizens of the jungle, men are sent forward upon the look-out, to take their position upon the trees near the appointed scene of action, being thus, by their elevation and experience, enabled to give information of the where about of the animal sought for, which though often charging with great spirit; when first aroused, generally endeavours to change its original 'quarters for a laif of greater security. The Europeans referred to, having received intelligence at three tigers had taken possession of a particular spot, proceeded to beat down the banks of a ravine for several hours, without finding any trace of them, and were beginning to suspect they had been misinformed, when, coming to a patch of very tall jungle-grass, they stumbled upon the remains of a bullock, half-eaten, and exhibiting unmistakable indications that the gourmand had not long risen from his meal, thus affording hopes that the unexpected and unwelcome visitors were at no great distance from his after-dinner retreat. Advancing, accordingly, through the jungle, the leading elephant presently began the peculiar kind of trumpeting which indicates uneasiness, and plainly showed that the intruders were not far from the object of their search; besides which, several deer had started off about 300 yards in advance of the party, in .evident terror--affording another indication of proximity to the animal sought for. At length a distant view of an enormous tiger was caught, as he endeavoured to cross a ravine; and one of the party fired at him a long shot, which only had the effect of accelerating his pace. The elephants now pushed on; two more shots were fired, and suddenly the tiger fled across an open space in front of his pursuers, who followed as rapidly as possible, crossing and crashing through the bed of a nullah, to which the animal had betaken himself. While thus in full chase, two fresh tigers got up growling angrily, almost under the feet of the sportsmen, and, after the discharge of a few shots, haughtily and slowly retired to cover. Presently the glare of an eye piercing through some brushwood betrayed the retreat of one of the monsters, and a ball, aimed with excellent precision, passing through his brain, he fell without an effort to resent the insult offered to him in his native haunts. The second tiger was also dispatched in a very short time, though it took several shots to stretch him the ground; but the-third was still abroad, and apparently as yet unhurt. Upon arousing him for the third time, the brute went off again in good style, but considerably ahead. At length a long shot from a rifle struck him, and the infuriated animal turned and charged his assailants gallantly, fortunately offering too fair a mark to be missed by them; and thus, just as he crouched to -spring upon the foremost elephant, a well-aimed bullet stopped its career, and it fell lifeless. On that .day the party returned to their camp in great triumph, with three royal tigers borne by the baggage elephants, and presenting a cavalcade that Landseer might not have thought unworthy of his pencil.

On the following day the same persons proceeded along the Dhoon, without any intention of looking for tigers, but with a hope to obtain some deer on their way. While beating some lemon-bushes, to their great surprise an immense uger broke cover, and went off before they could get him within range. A considerable space of open country, interspersed with s'wamps, and bounder by a thick forest, formed the hunting-ground on this occasion; and the success of the sport depended on their turning the animal before he could reach the forest: the pedestrians of the party were therefore directed to climb the trees, and to shout with all the power of their lungs if the tiger approached their stations. Meantime the animal had been lost sight of; but his pursuers were guided to the vicinity of his lair by a flock of vultures perched upon a tree-a tolerably sure indication that the royal larder was at no great distance. The cover here was exceedingly heavy, and great difficulty was sustained in beating, but, after some time, a sudden glimpse of a tawny stripe through the jungle-grass, gave assurance that the search had not been in vain. The elephants now began to trumpet forth their apprehensions with increased vigour, but the hunters pushed forward, being warned, by the shouts of the people in the trees, that the tiger was making for the forest. Turned at all points, the creature doubled back, and got into a long narrow strip of high jungle-grass, which was separated from a dense wood on the right by about twenty yards of bare bank, and divided from the heavy covers he had abandoned by a pool of clear water. The sportsmen immediately beat up this strip, leaving an elephant on the bank to prevent a retreat to the forest. Presently the tiger got up about 200 yards ahead, and again doubling back, one of the party had a fair shot, which brought him on his haunches, until another ball made him move off to some broken ground, where he took up his last position. As the party advanced, the noble animal was seen in the grandeur of his rage, lashing his tail, roaring, and grinding his teeth, preparatory to a charge; and, on firing again at him, the provocation was complete, and his rage became furious. With a roar that made the whole dell echo, he sprang forward upon the party, the whole of whom fired simultaneously, and the splendid animal fell lifeless at the very feet of the elephants.