Talk:Tartan

Tartan etiquette

Resolved

 – The article has been restructured to put material in appropriate sections, including an "Etiquette" section.

This is part of the article, the last part of the 'clan tartans' section. I don't think it belongs there though. I wonder if the article could have a short 'tartan etiquette' section. That is what this paragraph appears to be. We would need some references though. What does anyone think?

Interestingly, a few tartans are now described as "general", i.e. acceptable for all to wear. The Black Watch tartan (see below) is the most well-known of these. Furthermore, the "Stewart Hunting Tartan" is also considered a general tartan by many; originally, as the name implies, a Stewart tartan, its use in several Highland regiments led to this broadening of its application. It remains, however, the most popular tartan in use by Stewart clan members. Finally, a few words should be said about the best known tartan of all: the famous Royal Stewart. Originally a variation on the Stewart of Galloway clan tartan, and as such a bona fide Stewart tartan, it was favoured by the Royal Family, wherefore many people consider it a Royal tartan. For this reason, it became a much sought-after tartan with the Highland regiments; and this, again, led to its present-day popularity, where it functions, for all practical purposes, as the Scottish Tartan, being used with everything from shortbread boxes to mugs and miniskirts. Queen Anne, foreseeing this development, remedied it once and for all by affirming that the British sovereign was to be considered clan chief of all Britons – English, Scots, Welsh and Irish – and that every (loyal) British subject therefore had the right to display her/his allegiance to the clan chief by wearing the clan tartan of the United Kingdom: the Royal Stewart.

--Celtus (talk) 05:05, 12 October 2008 (UTC)

The article's structure is better now, and there is an etiquette section. I cannot find any reliable (or even unreliable for that matter) sourcing for the Queen Anne claims. This sounds like yet another bit of misty legend.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  21:23, 2 June 2023 (UTC)

Speaking of which, all this talk of "original" this and "originally" that is wrong. The royal Stewart pattern can only be dated to c. 1800, in records of Wilsons of Bannockburn. The idea that it's some pre-Jacobite "ancient" clan tartan is another bit of sourceless legendry.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  23:47, 11 July 2023 (UTC)

Tartan vs plaid

Resolved

 – Both terms are now explained properly in the lead section, and the article is at the name that is not ambiguous, as it should be.

Why is this article not called Plaid? I can tell you that no one in North America says "tartan." Explain that in Scotland "a plaid is a tartan cloth slung over the shoulder or a blanket." But don't call the article "tartan" because of that. Macarion (talk) 01:09, 21 April 2009 (UTC)

Wikipedia is not a North American encyclopedia - it's a global one, see WP:WORLDVIEW. As such any local dialect of English can be used, but there are fairly strict rules about what dialect to use when the subject has a particularly close association with a particular country - see WP:ENGVAR. In this case, the article obviously has a close association with Scotland and so its title and contents should be in British English (and arguably Scottish English, but that's another matter...). Hence it's called "tartan". However if you go to the Plaid article you will get a link here as one of the options. Usually it works the other way - us non-Americans have to put up with North American usage for all sorts of articles on Wikipedia, so it's only fair to have a bit of give and take. Le Deluge (talk) 22:55, 22 April 2009 (UTC)

I totally agree with Deluge that since the tartan is culturally associated with Scotland, this article should use the word tartan and not plaid. As much as I find it shocking that my coworker here in California does not know what a tartan is, still, the world does not revolve around American English or Wikipedia articles purely written in American English. Another word for small is wee and you can say grand for good. This is an opinion of someone who lived both in Scotland and U.S.A. ICE77 (talk) 07:40, 13 July 2016 (UTC)

Not to mention the fact that the idea that Americans don't know what tartan means and don't use it is just wrong anyway. It tends to be used more for named (clan, family, district, organizational, etc.) setts, with generic "fashion" setts begin called plaid. Virtually no one in the US would speak of a "plaid kilt", even if they're also likely to use "plaid shirt" rather than "tartan shirt", but they know what you mean if you say "tartan shirt". The previous attempt to rename this page failed for good reasons.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  00:14, 12 July 2023 (UTC)

Requested move 8 July 2021

The following is a closed discussion of a requested move. Please do not modify it. Subsequent comments should be made in a new section on the talk page. Editors desiring to contest the closing decision should consider a move review after discussing it on the closer's talk page. No further edits should be made to this discussion.

The result of the move request was: not moved. There is clear consensus that the article should not be moved to the proposed title, nor is there consensus regarding any of the other titles which were proposed. (closed by non-admin page mover) Jack Frost (talk) 05:57, 15 July 2021 (UTC)

---

Tartan → Scottish and Irish tartan – Please place your rationale for the proposed move here. HLHJ (talk) 03:04, 8 July 2021 (UTC)

Either we need to rename this article to something culture-specific like "Scottish and Irish tartan", or we need to include all the other cultures that use tartan/plaid/patterns made by varying the colour of both warp and weft. There's traditional plaid/tartan cloth in Japan, in India, in various parts of Africa, etc.. I'd suggest a rename. This article deals primarily with Scotland (and a bit of Ireland); the short description even ignores Ireland. The weaving technique is hardly restricted to these places. We need an article somewhere on these woven patterns generally; this article does not represent a worldwide view of the subject, which is fine but it should be named accordingly. Suggestions for other names for a general article are welcome.

• 
  Folk dancers in Aizawl, Mizoram
• 
  Sari
• 
  Voting queue in dun tartan (hard to see some of the patterns in small size).
• 
  Tartan shirts lungis, saris, etc.. Commons:Category:Voting lines in India contains photos most of which seem to show some tartan cloth.
• 
  Children in Ghana race against the wind
• 
  Mexico
• 
  Japanese print, c. 1780-1790

I could go on. See Wiktionary:格子 for Japanese and Chinese terms for plaid. HLHJ (talk) 03:04, 8 July 2021 (UTC)

No. "Tartan" is culture-specific, not a term for checked cloth patterns in general. Mutt Lunker (talk) 09:53, 8 July 2021 (UTC)

No, for the same reason as above. Tartan is specific to a culture; Scottish heritage is also celebrated outside Scotland in Tartan Day, and followers of the Scotland national sports team are known as the Tartan Army. Gabriella MNT (talk) 11:39, 8 July 2021 (UTC)

Okay, so what do we call cloth non-Scottish-tradition cloth patterned by varying the colour of both warp and weft? I don't care what we call these articles, and I'm fine with having an article on Scottish tartan, I just also want a place to put information of such woven patterns in general, in all cultures. Sure, Scottish-tradition tartans are used outside Scotland. It seems inappropriate to shove information about kimono patterns into this article, though, or even gingham plaid. There is an article called Plaid (pattern), but it redirects here.

On English usage, "checked cloth" to me means cloth printed like a checkerboard, which is not the same as a woven pattern (Check (pattern) agrees with me on this, but also has information on Scottish tartan and keffiyeh). My OED gives both the Scotland-specific and general cloth-pattern definitions for each of "tartan" and "plaid", distinguishing them only by saying that plaid is twill-woven (I think American usage is just "plaid", regardless or whether tabby weave or twill). The link plaid is a disambig including things not necessarily Scottish, like plaid shirts.

Mutt Lunker, Gabriella MNT, do you have suggestions for where information on non-Scottish-tradition cloth patterned by varying the colour of both warp and weft should go, and what the article it goes in should be named? I want somewhere to put information on the weaving technique and how it's used around the world. HLHJ (talk) 13:32, 8 July 2021 (UTC)

I don't. That it is hard to define the remit of your subject possibly indicates it isn't particularly a thing.

In Scotland, a plaid is specifically the item of clothing, which is usually but is not always tartan (e.g. can be Hodden grey, per this example), so mentioning "plaid" in your article would be an unnecessarily ambiguous choice and best avoided. Mutt Lunker (talk) 14:04, 8 July 2021 (UTC)

• Oppose. "Tartan" is not a synonym for "any plaid clothing". I'm not even sure if the topic nominator seems to want to exist at "base" Tartan is really a thing - List of clothing with plaid patterns perhaps? That might stray into breaking list guidelines of picking a random thing to list by, but I'd recommend making that article first, and then if-and-only-if usage can be found that some reliable source uses "Tartan" to refer to plaid saris or the like, that a hatnote be added to the current "Tartan" article. SnowFire (talk) 14:18, 8 July 2021 (UTC)
• Oppose. If this article is too Scottish/Irish focused then a new subsection could be added/the lead rewritten slightly to allow for tartan in other cultures to be added. It needs expansion and a rewrite perhaps, but not a new article/name. LordHarris (talk) 16:09, 8 July 2021 (UTC)
• Oppose. "Tartan" is specifically a Scottish/Irish cultural thing, not a generic term for striped or plaid clothing. JIP | Talk 16:11, 8 July 2021 (UTC)

Etymological detail: Originally, "plaid" was a word borrowed from the Gaelic, and referred to a type of blanket or garment (of any colour or pattern), and "tartan" was an English word (borrowed from the French) for tartan-pattern cloth. If you are making cloth by hand, striped and tartan patterns are a way to decorate cloth with little extra labour, so peasants around the world wore it, and rich people tended to shun it (see, for instance, Madras (cloth)). In the late 1600s and 1700s, England broke out of the Malthusian trap; from living on subsistence farming, it transitioned to an industrialized economy, with unprecedented wealth per capita.[1] This was largely driven by the automation of spinning and weaving, making England able to produce cloth very cheaply, and export it for great profit. So English people were on average richer and could also buy cloth much more cheaply.

Scotland, not so much. Scotland was still poor. English visitors at the time noted that people still spun by hand, wove with hand looms, and ground their grain with hand querns. They also wore cheap wool twill plaids, in striped and tartan patterns; the poorer people owned only a long shirt and a plaid, which served as a garment by day and a blanket at night. There were changeable regional fashions in patterns. The English did use striped and tartan cloth, but nowhere near as much, and often for things like mattress covers, where no-one would notice if it looked cheap. Tartan-pattern cloth became associated with Scots in both England and Scotland.

Then in the mid-1700s came the Highland Clearances, among other things. Scots were upset. There was political unrest and Jacobitism, which became associated with Scottish dress. In the Dress Act 1746, clothes that were considered typically Scottish were banned, including multicoloured plaids (the garments) and tartan-pattern cloth in most contexts. If you go to the article and read the text of the ban, you'll see that "plaid" is used for the garment, and "tartan" for a pattern. It was repealed in 1782, and in Victorian times tartans were systematized, given heraldic significance (largely by a couple of Jacobite pretenders) and became all the rage, especially after being adopted by the royal family. If I were making this up I'd make it more plausible.

Later, Americans came to use "plaid" as a synonym of "tartan", using both words to refer to both the pattern type and the Scots garments (this pattern-describing usage of "plaid" existed by the late 1930s [2]). Some Brits now do the same.

So it isn't hard to define the subject; the English vocabulary is just a bit awkwardly ambiguous (we have lots of articles on subjects with ambiguous English names). If I were describing, for instance, the mask-adjusting picture above, I'd say the child is wearing a tartan shirt and shorts (if speaking to a Brit), or a plaid shirt and shorts (if speaking to an American). I'd think it would be obvious from the context which sense of "tartan" or "plaid" I was using. If "List of clothing with plaid patterns" is a reasonable category, and we could call the garment in the image above a "plaid sari", than "plaid patterns" must be a thing that exists. I tend to agree with Mutt Lunker that "tartan patterns" would be less ambiguous, but obviously SnowFire would disagree. I suspect this is a transatlantic dialect disagreement. That's why I want input.

If this article is too Scottish/Irish focused then a new subsection could be added/the lead rewritten slightly to allow for tartan in other cultures to be added.
— LordHarris

The tartan article, which is already quite long, is almost entirely about Scotland, as the short description says. I think a rescope would make more sense.

"Tartan" is specifically a Scottish/Irish cultural thing, not a generic term for striped or plaid clothing.
— User:JIP

Unfortunately, it is both, as is "plaid". This can be independently verified with an etymological dictionary (including Wiktionary: Wiktionary:plaid#Noun, Wiktionary:tartan#Noun). HLHJ (talk) 18:32, 8 July 2021 (UTC)

I've only skimmed through the above as the greater part seems to have little pertinence to the subject of cloth patterns and much is factually inaccurate. I'd like to note that the attribution to me of the advocacy of the term "tartan patterns" for such an article, or that it is less ambiguous, is without basis. I'm not sure you should be stating SnowFire's view for them either. Mutt Lunker (talk) 19:00, 8 July 2021 (UTC)

I'm sorry to have misrepresented you, Mutt Lunker. Since you said:

In Scotland, a plaid is specifically the item of clothing, which is usually but is not always tartan (e.g. can be Hodden grey, per this example), so mentioning "plaid" in your article would be an unnecessarily ambiguous choice and best avoided.

I thought you were saying that "tartan" was less ambiguous than "plaid" for the cloth pattern, which I thought would logically imply that "tartan patterns" would be less ambiguous than "plaid patterns". As I think you said, patterns in plaids (garments) include but are not restricted to tartan. Clarification welcome. A quarter of an hour before your post, Snowfire did not object to my characterization of Snowfire's views (below), so at least I did a bit better there.

I'd appreciate knowing what portions of what I wrote are factually inaccurate. HLHJ (talk) 01:17, 9 July 2021 (UTC)

Just confirming that I'm an American as far as usages here. I think this proposal might be a case of cart-before-the-horse. If you think you can write a good article or list on plaid patterns / tartan patterns / "usage of striped patterns in clothing in general" from a global perspective, go for it (in Draft or User space if need be)! It very well might be worth a mention on Tartan (disambiguation) and in this article if created. But even if that article is created, I'd still be skeptical about moving this article - as the 1986 reference in the lede notes, "The words tartan and plaid have come to be used synonymously, particularly in North America. This usage is incorrect when referring to Scottish tartan." In other words, "tartan" has priority when referring to Scottish & Gaelic tartans and the culture associated with them. But we definitely shouldn't even consider moving it until the "pattern in general" article is created, else it be (discouraged) preemptive disambiguation. SnowFire (talk) 18:45, 8 July 2021 (UTC)

Thank you, SnowFire. I'd be happy to make such an article. I do think that "tartan" is better for referring to the Scottish-tradition heraldic patterns. Obviously the preferred word used to describe, say, Madras (cloth) varies geographically. Maybe I should call it "double stripe", like "double ikat", just to sidestep the whole tomahto/tomayto (there's plahd/played for "plaid", too; I think "played" is the pronunciation more common in Scotland). And insert an etymology section. But I think I should probably let this discussion end first. HLHJ (talk) 01:17, 9 July 2021 (UTC)

• oppose as has been stated by other editors 'tartan' isn't a generic term for checked cloth it is specifically a cultural thing. This is backed up by the wiktionary links nom posted btw—blindlynx (talk) 14:33, 9 July 2021 (UTC)
  • I do think those Wiktionary links (Wiktionary:plaid#Noun, Wiktionary:tartan#Noun) have both senses. See sense 2 of tartan, sense 3 of plaid, and the adjective senses of both, which would apply to "tartan kimono". But it seems a number of editors use "checked" or "checkered" in a sense different from me calling this a chequered kimono. Could any future responses please go beyond disagreeing with my usage and discuss what terms they would use for different types of cloth pattern? How would you describe the garments in the images? HLHJ (talk) 03:30, 13 July 2021 (UTC)

This discussion is about the issue you raised, the requested move. Don't complain if people come here to address the matter you raised. Your proposal having been roundly rejected, if you want people to engage in a discussion about something else, start a new discussion. As your new issue is more general and not about tartan specifically, this may not be the place discuss it; perhaps Wikipedia talk:WikiProject Textile Arts? Mutt Lunker (talk) 09:24, 13 July 2021 (UTC)

This isn't a discussion of those cloths—it's a discussion of tartans—why are you asking us to go off topic?—blindlynx (talk) 13:37, 13 July 2021 (UTC)

Please, if you think I'm wrong, say why, or I'm unlikely to learn better

I don't think I've made myself clear. When I said "different types of cloth pattern", I meant tartan patterns, and possibly checkered patterns if someone feels they are not the same. I should have been less ambiguous. This is a discussion of the title of the article called "Tartan"; discussing the meanings of the word "tartan", one of which, I contend, is a pattern of cloth, seems relevant. If "tartan" does not mean this pattern of cloth, asking what term does describe the cloth seems reasonable, especially when there are dialect differences here, which i think is why we are arguing. I know you have both said that "tartan" is not a term used for cloth with warp and weft stripes, but you haven't said why (or why you think I'm factually incorrect). Blindlynx said that their opinion was supported by Wiktionary, and I've explained why this does not seem to me to be the case. I'll now additionally cite Webster, since he's out of copyright and American:

Checker Check"er (?), v.t. [imp. & p.p. Checkered (?); p. pr. & vb. n. Checkering.] [From OF. eschequier a chessboard, F. \'82chiquier. See Check, n., and cf. 3d Checker.]

1. To mark with small squares like a checkerboard, as by crossing stripes of different colors.

2. To variegate or diversify with different qualities, color, scenes, or events; esp., to subject to frequent alternations of prosterity and adversity.

Our minds are, as it were, checkered with truth and falsehood. Addison.

...

Tartan (?), n. [F. tiretane, linsey-woolsey, akin to Sp. tiritaña, a sort of thin silk; cf. Sp. tiritar, to shiver or shake with cold.]

Woolen cloth, checkered or crossbarred with narrow bands of various colors, much worn in the Highlands of Scotland; hence, any pattern of tartan; also, other material of a similar pattern.

...

Plaid (?), n. [Gael. plaide a blanket or plaid, contr. fr. peallaid a sheepskin, fr. peall a skin or hide. CF. Pillion.]

1. A rectangular garment or piece of cloth, usually made of the checkered material called tartan, but sometimes of plain gray, or gray with black stripes. It is worn by both sexes in Scotland.

2. Goods of any quality or material of the pattern of a plaid or tartan; a checkered cloth or pattern.

Plaid, a. Having a pattern or colors which resemble a Scotch plaid; checkered or marked with bars or stripes at right angles to one another; as, "plaid muslin".

Plaided, Plaid"ed, a.

1. Of the material of which plaids are made; tartan.

"In plaided vest." Wordsworth.

2. Wearing a plaid.

Campbell.

Plaiding Plaid"ing (?), n. Plaid cloth.
— [https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/673/pg673.txt

This seems to me to give three American names for the crossed-stripe woven patterns I am describing. All these names have additional meanings, none of them are unambiguous (with the possible exception of plaiding, which would probably not be accepted in British English). Can we agree that the words "tartan", "plaid", and "checkered" can (among other uses) reasonably be used in English to describe crossed-stripe cloth outside of the Scottish and Irish cultural traditions (e.g. "a tartan kimono")? Or can we agree on any other term?

Wikipedia has Tartan patterns and Plaid (pattern) redirecting here; would anyone object if I wrote, or at least drafted, a global, non-culture-specific article to be the target of these links, as SnowFire suggested? HLHJ (talk) 00:30, 14 July 2021 (UTC)

Every definition of 'tartan' you have provided and what most editors here are arguing is that 'tartan' is specifically a pattern related to Scottish culture, therefor this page should not be moved. Whether this is an appropriate redirect for those pages is a different discussion. Maybe Check_(pattern) would be better?—blindlynx (talk) 03:41, 14 July 2021 (UTC)

I am not arguing that tartan is not a pattern related to Scottish culture, merely that that is not the word's only meaning. Webster's "other material of a similar pattern" seems to me to unambiguously be a definition that allows referring to that kimono as tartan. Check (pattern) might work for US usage, which does not distinguish between the pattern found on a checkerboard, with squares of two different colours alternating orthogonally, and the pattern found on gingham, with three different colours of squares. But in British usage, and in many other languages, the two are distinguished, and indeed the conceptual distinction is pretty clear. If there are two concepts, there should be two articles (I recently split an article that covered an HVAC system and a Quranic reference to a spring in heaven in a single article; imagine the categorization...). The British OED (which I have not quoted due to copyright) says "tartan" is a woolen cloth with this pattern, "especially" as worn in the Scottish highlands, or other cloth with the same pattern (they silk and velvet [!] as examples), or a Scottish plaid with a clan's heraldic pattern. The OED's definition of "chequer" does not admit the three-colour-square version, let alone a pattern with narrow rectangles. I'm not sure what Indian English uses. Ideally, we want a term which:

• clearly distinguishes the crossed-stripe pattern from the checkerboard checker (eliminates "checkered", since Americans use it for both)
• will not be seen as catachresic by readers from outside the United States (eliminates "checkered" and "plaid", since Brits use these words for other meanings)
• will not be seen as catachresic by readers from inside the United States (eliminates "tartan" since Americans think this is Scotland-specific[3][4])

Etymologically, we could go with the oldest term. Or we could go with a descriptive term. So... woven cross-stripe? Double stripe, by parallel with double ikat? If no-one cares, then sure, this discussion is over, but I'm happy to hear to other views. HLHJ (talk) 23:58, 14 July 2021 (UTC)

• 
  Checkerboard. Two colours.
• 
  Gingham with squares in three colours.
• 
  Gingham with squares in four colours.
• 
  Three colours of squares, obviously not a possible plain-woven pattern.
• 
  A heraldic tartan, woven in 2/2 wool twill. Threads of four colours are interwoven to make rectangles of eight colours. Most of the rectangles aren't square.

• Oppose. Utterly overwhelmingly, English-language sources use the word to refer to what is described in this article. -- Necrothesp (talk) 14:57, 14 July 2021 (UTC)

I think we've established that there's opposition to the proposed move, there is opposition to discussing alternate terms here, and the discussion has apparently gotten TL;DR. HLHJ (talk) 23:58, 14 July 2021 (UTC)

The discussion above is closed. Please do not modify it. Subsequent comments should be made on the appropriate discussion page. No further edits should be made to this discussion.

• oppose. The title Tartan is & has always been ethnic to Scots/Scottish, or Scotland & Celtic heritage. A separate page should be crated for general checked garments of different cultures, or races. The opinion, with pictures is a good example of an individual who does not know, understand, or care for the individuality of cultural, racial garments, simply "they look similar" so "I believe they are the same thing"!, this is irresponsible thought. The page is for Tartan, with a kind, already existing reference that tartan & its heritage relates outside Scotland, lets try avoid globalising Scottish clothing/identity with improper opinions. 194.73.217.219 (talk) 15:38, 12 June 2024 (UTC)C.Cardivil

Follow-up (on internationalising)

(Aside from confusion of Scottish and Irish) one of the big flaws in the proposal above and of much of the reasoning througout the discussion is that the fact of modern-day worldwide use of tartan/plaid (terms which are now entirely adequately explained in the lead), and a bunch of photographic evidence of tartan and more often simple chequer-board pattern from around the world, tells nothing encyclopedic and historic. Of course tartan is all over the world, just as T-shirts and jeans are; modern manufacturers have a global market. This doesn't indicate that we need to devote space to presentation of information about Western informal dress in every society, nor do we need to do something like that for use of tartan everywhere. A few other quibbles: the Ghana picture doesn't illustrate anything related to tartan (the grid-like pattern on one cloth is a printed pattern, not woven, as the colours do not blend); checkerboard (dicing) is also not related to tartan but is a patchwork or printed pattern in which, again, colours do not blend (same goes for the modern "chequered kimono" image – it is an unrelated kind of textile to tartan); the two gingham examples are mis-described as three- and four-colour (they are both two-colour, which is definitionally true of the gingham pattern; if it's got three, it's tattersall); and "heraldic tartan" isn't a real term.

What would be of encyclopedic relevance would be evidence of use of tartan-style patterns outside Northwestern Europe in the pre-modern era. Of all the evidence presented above, the only thing useful is the 1780s Japanese woodcut. This inspired me to do some digging and we now have an "In other cultures" section with a "Japanese kōshi" subsection. It's a start, and we will probably need some additional subsections on use of similar cloth in other parts of the world without any clear connection to Scottish tartan. This requires source research, and a bunch of whining that the article is "too Scottish" isn't helpful. Our article is heavy on Scotland-related details because all the reliable source material is.

So, what historical but non-Scottish tartan/plaid use is our article missing?  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  00:12, 16 May 2023 (UTC)

One gap I can identify: coverage of Maasai shúkà (we have a little on it at Maasai people#Clothing). It is frequently in tartan patterns, almost emblematically so. The Maasai and the British were 19th-century allies for a time in various of the colonial-period wars. [5]  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  08:45, 17 May 2023 (UTC); rev'd. 07:14, 22 May 2023 (UTC)

I've added a subsection, Tartan#Maasai shúkà that covers this, but it's actually got more detail and sourcing than the corresponding Maasai people#Clothing, so at Talk:Maasai people I've suggested some merging or even a separate Shúkà article.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  12:23, 27 May 2023 (UTC)

Also, as noted in an earlier thread, there's a tartan tradition in Nazaré, Portugal. Need to find some sources on this.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  23:32, 17 May 2023 (UTC)

Image to use for this later: File:Museu dos Texteis - MUTEX 22.jpg – antique loom, with tartan cloth, in Museu dos Têxteis (Museum of Textiles) in Castelo Branco, Portugal.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  13:45, 9 June 2023 (UTC)

Commons appears to have zero images of the clothing style. From what I gather here, it's a style called escocês ('Scottish'), and was formerly commonly worn, along with a long sock-like cap ending in a tassel[6][7], by fishermen. What I can tell from other materials[8][9][10][11][12] is that it's a now-old folk costume (obsolescent after maybe the 1950s), and is not the common wear of the people today, but just put on (perhaps for the benefit of tourists) during a few saints day festivals and a carnival period starting in early January. A recent photo of fishermen in the area at work doesn't show them wearing tartan stuff[13]. I can't find any source to corrorborate the story posted above in another thread: "Legend has it this was from when the Scots landed there to help the Spanish and Portuguese defeat Napolean's army. The locals were so happy to see them or so taken with their garments that they fashioned lighter, more colorful versions." However, there appears to be a book that would be a good source, if it can be found and someone fluent in Portuguese can read it: de Mattos e Silva, Abilio Leal (1970). O Trajo da Nazaré. Lisbon: Editorial Astória. In the interim, I cannot find any usable colour images, and only a tiny handful of black and white ones (a couple of Edwardian-era postcards) that could be poached for Commons. Beyond that, I don't have anything further to report on Nazaré tartan. There's just not yet enough material to work with.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  17:48, 9 June 2023 (UTC)

Also, our lead image at Tatars shows 1870 Tatars of Kazan wearing tartan-patterened clothing, so we need to cover their use of this kind of cloth. Haven't found much; one blog showed examples and also said they're similar to patterns used by Finnic peoples.[14] The angel in Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus, with a tartan cloak, is generally held to be wearing "Tatar" cloth, but that meant Mongol cloth.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  15:27, 4 June 2023 (UTC)

Okay, I got those integrated into the article.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  20:28, 4 June 2023 (UTC)

J. F. Campbell (1862), p. 366, wrote of tartan (and other) patterns being common in the South Sea Islands (though that's a vague term, and could refer to peoples of Polynesia, Melanesia, or Micronesia).  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  07:34, 7 June 2023 (UTC)

Still haven't found anything usable on this sub-subject.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  00:24, 12 July 2023 (UTC)

Potential source: Kuchler, Susan; Were, Graeme, eds. (2011). The Art of Clothing: A Pacific Experience. Routledge. ISBN 9781844720156. – An expensive academic volume.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  09:53, 13 July 2023 (UTC)

Scarlett (2008) also observed tartan patterns in Bhutan. Newsome has an article on it here[15] and there may be enough material for a little subsection on it. There's some more on it here [16], but not a reliable source. Bhutanese weaving is often far more complex than tartan, but does include tartan patterns.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  21:24, 11 June 2023 (UTC); rev'd. 20:45, 9 July 2023 (UTC)

Found some Bhutan pics on Commons, so will add some to gallery. Google Scholar has papers that might go into it [17]; I have not trawled through them yet.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  21:32, 9 July 2023 (UTC)

Some of the terminology is mathra, pangtsi, bura, and kira, though I'm not sure yet which are terms for particular garments, for types of cloth, or for patterns. Found an entire book, substantial portions of which are online: Altmann, Karin (2015). Fabric of Life: Textile Arts in Bhutan – Culture, Tradition and Transformation. De Gruyter. ISBN 9783110428612 – via Google Books.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  21:41, 9 July 2023 (UTC)

From that book, I'm gathering that the generic term is bumthang, with various specific varieties having their own names (mathra, adha[ng] mathra, sethra, burai mathra, pangtsi; non-tartan linear stripes, like seersucker cloth, is called adha mathra). I can't really tell more, because the full relevant pages are not available from the GBooks preview.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  22:09, 9 July 2023 (UTC)

There was enough material accessible online from that book (by browsing its full-accessible pages and by searching snippet-view in it) to write up a short subsection on mathra (the actual general term) tartans in Bhutan, so I did, with some Commons pics.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  01:43, 10 July 2023 (UTC)

South American tartans/plaids have been mentioned in a source or two. I went through both Weaving identities: Construction of dress and self in a highland Guatemala town by C. E. Hendrickson (1995), and Costume and Identity in Highland Ecuador by A. P. Rowe & L. Meisch (1998), and while I saw a few pictures that had a tartan-ish appearance, some were not true tartan but the product of supplementary weaving (colours crossing each other without blending), regular linear-striped cloth was more prevalent, and even more represented were complex abstract and figural patterns. Neither book addressed tartan/plaid patterns as a particular style in Guatemala or Ecuador at all, so it seems we have to look elsewhere in South America for an encyclopedically noteworthy tradition of weaving this kind of cloth.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  21:02, 10 July 2023 (UTC)

Try Bolivia next. I did see a pic of handmade Bolivian poncho cloth (looked like cotton) that was a simple tartan.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  09:02, 14 August 2023 (UTC)

Splitting of article

I think the clan and regimental tartans sections are long and developed enough to consider splitting out into side articles. The whole article is still shorter than plenty of other articles (e.g. on countries, on major politicians and other public figures, etc.) – it's not even in the top 500 largest WP articles – but it is getting pretty long. Leaving behind a WP:SUMMARY-style précis of each will take a fair amount of careful editing, though.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  09:06, 24 May 2023 (UTC)

The whole set of history sections might actually be splittable as History of tartan, much as Silk is now split off to History of silk and a lot of additional side articles. For now, I prefer to work on sourcing as much material as possible. I'm basically taking a working vacation and doing source-research on tartan full time until I run out of steam. We can re-arrange it later.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  10:10, 3 June 2023 (UTC)

Separate articles that I think can be spun off, so far:

• Tartan design and weaving, from the "Weaving construction", "Styles and design principles", and "Colour, palettes, and meaning" sections
• History of tartan, from the "Pre-medieval origins", "Medieval", "16th century", "17th and 18th centuries", "Late Georgian", "Victorian", and "20th century to present" sections, with compressed summaries also of "Regimental tartans" and "Clan tartans".
• Regimental tartan, from the "Regimental tartans" section
• Clan tartan, from the "Clan tartans" section

I think also some stubs can be created:

• Shúkà, from the "Maasai shúkà" subsection
• Kōshi (textile), from the "Japanese kōshi" subsection
• Mathra (textile), from the "Bhutanese mathra" subsection
• Can probably also do one for Suurrätt, by translating the Estonian article [18].

That said, I – being the only one doing any of this work at all – do not want to do this splitting any time soon, as I'm still sourcing the material on a daily basis, and doing so would become vastly more difficult if the work were spread across half a dozen or more separate articles; often a single source page provides material relevant to three or more sections of the WP article. (Given that I just ordered 10 more source books, this is going to take a while.) Just the splitting itself is going to be a tremendous job, because all the source citations will have to be repaired on a page-by-page basis, and then the material has to be summarized (sometimes multiple times, e.g. clan and regimental tartans have to be differently summarized for the main article and for the history article, with differing levels of detail and a different focus/intent). Per WP:HASTE (and WP:IAR for that matter), there is no hurry, and this article is still smaller than a bunch of others across many topics, like List of Glagolitic manuscripts, ‎List of Statutory Rules and Orders of Northern Ireland, Tawag ng Tanghalan (season 6), ‎List of Hindi songs recorded by Asha Bhosle, ‎Municipal history of Quebec, 1922 regnal list of Ethiopia, List of battles by geographic location, List of Gunsmoke (TV series) episodes, ‎List of common misconceptions, ‎Opinion polling for the 2023 Spanish general election, ‎List of 2021–22 NBA season transactions, ‎2022 in science (many of them rote lists that are barely encyclopedic). If they aren't breaking anything, then neither is Tartan.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  20:32, 9 July 2023 (UTC); updated 01:44, 10 July 2023 (UTC)

This has gotten unwieldy enough yet also well-developed enough to start splitting it now. I'm starting with the "Regimental tartans" section, then will do "Clan tartans", then probably "History of tartan". This will take a lot of work since all the citations will have to be repaired, new leads written, WP:SUMMARY material left behind in its place, etc., etc.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  06:43, 4 August 2023 (UTC)

Regimental tartan is now live. I will next work on compressing Tartan#Regimental tartans to a concise WP:SUMMARY.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  11:13, 4 August 2023 (UTC)

Done with the post-split cleanup in that section. It could be compressed even further, but I'll wait until splitting off of History of tartan and see how long that turns out (that side article will need its own summary of regimental tartans, probably the text of that section here now, to be replaced in turn by an even shorter version).  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  05:14, 8 August 2023 (UTC)

Next working on splitting out a Tartan weaving and design article, to encompass the current "#Weaving construction", "#Styles and design principles", and "#Colour, palettes, and meaning" sections. Will do Clan tartan after that.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  05:14, 8 August 2023 (UTC)

I've got most of the Tartan design and weaving article split and "massaged" into shape at User:SMcCandlish/Incubator/Tartan design and weaving, but still need to build a lead section for it.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  13:50, 8 August 2023 (UTC)

Still working on it (about 95% done, but there are a few more tidbits in the main article that could move into it). Have some pressing "real life" stuff to deal with this week.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  14:14, 20 August 2023 (UTC)

Haven't forgotten about it; just got side-tracked for a while by an off-site project.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  08:24, 1 October 2023 (UTC)

And then an on-site one. Still working on this.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  12:13, 2 February 2024 (UTC)

Additional sources

Found these, but only the abstracts are available for free:

• Nicholson, Robin (November 2005). "From Ramsay's Flora MacDonald to Raeburn's MacNab: The Use of Tartan as a Symbol of Identity". Textile History. 36 (2): 146–167. doi:10.1179/004049605x61546. Also available at ResearchGate [19] and ScienceGate [20] but paywalled there, too.
• Coltman, Viccy (2010). "Party-coloured Plaid? Portraits of Eighteenth-century Scots in Tartan". Textile History. 41 (2): 182–216. doi:10.1179/174329510X12798919710635. Also available at ResearchGate [21] but paywalled there, too.
• Dziennik, Matthew P. (2012). "Whig Tartan: Material Culture and Its Use in the Scottish Highlands, 1746–1815". Past & Present. 217 (1): 117–147. doi:10.1093/pastj/gts025. Also available at JSTOR [22] but paywalled there, too. Hinderks (2014) says: "As late as 1794, it was documented that only military regiments had fixed tartans.", and cites Dziennik (2012) for this, but it's too vague a claim to use in our own article; need to see what Dziennik actually wrote and on what basis.
• Thorburn, W. A. (1976). "Military Origins of Scottish National Dress". Costume. 10 (1): 29–40.
• Tuckett, Sally J. S. (2009). "National Dress, Gender and Scotland: 1745–1822". Textile History. 40 (2: Researching the Garment Industry): 140–151. doi:10.1179/004049609x12504376351308. Also available at U. Glasgow [23] and ResearchGate [24] but paywalled there, too.
• Quye, A.; Cheape, Hugh; Burnett, J.; Ferreira, E.; Hulme, A.; McNab, H. (2003). "An historical and analytical study of red, pink, green and yellow colours in quality 18th and early 19th century Scottish tartans". Dyes in History & Archaeology. 19: 1–12.
• Quye, A. (1991). "Dye analysis undertaken in the NMS between October 1989 and September 1990". Dyes in History & Archaeology. 9: 27–31. – said to be directly related to tartan
• Wilson, M. L. (1987). "The Wilsons of Bannockburn". The Scottish Genealogist. 34 (2): 315–320.
• An old primary source: Ranking, B. Mongomerie (January 1884). "The Tartan Plaid". Time. Vol. 10, no. 58. London. pp. 50–55.
• Bigger, Elizabeth Esther; Fraguada, Luis Edgardo (September 2016). "Programmable plaid: The search for seamless integration in fashion and technology". UbiComp '16: Proceedings of the 2016 ACM International Joint Conference on Pervasive and Ubiquitous Computing: Adjunct: 464–469. doi:10.1145/2968219.2971343. – Something about adapting programmable wearable-art tech to a tartan pattern
• Black, Gillian; Craufurd Smith, Rachael; Kheria, Smita; Porter, Gerard (January 2015). "Scotland the Brand – Marketing the Myth?". Scottish Affairs. 24 (1). Edinburgh University Press: 47–77. doi:10.3366/scot.2015.0053. ISSN 2053-888X. – Seems to be focused on the tension between (individual) intellectual property and (collective) cultural heritage concerns; involves tartan, Scotch whisky, Harris tweed, etc.
• The Proceedings of the Scottish Tartans Society, journal, 1980s-1990s – will be nearly impossible to find, probably, except in Scottish libraries.
• Legal case documents to get access to: Holmes et al. v. LL Bean Inc., US District Court for Maine (Portland Office); case no. 2:2006cv00211; 30 November 2006 [25]. Need access to the PACER system, which might be possible through The Wikipedia Library. In this case, one Jane or Jan and David Holmes of Plymouth, Maine, sued US clothing company LL Bean for using a tartan design Jan[e] acquired the rights to, in LL Bean's "Americana Tartan Shirt"; company defended its use by arguing that the tartan is in the public domain since it is widely recognised as the state tartan of Maine. I can't find any info yet on how this case went. THere was at least one bit of news coverage when the case was filed [26]. As of 2007, neither that tartan nor a competing one were official tartans of the state [27].
• A key economic report (behind the "Tartans Bill" that created the Scottish Register of Tartans) has gone missing: ECOTEC Research and Consulting Ltd, The Economic Impact of the Tartan Industry in Scotland: A Report Submitted to Scottish Enterprise National Textiles Team, C3365 / May 2007, apparently actually written in 2006. It used to be here, but is gone and web.archive.org did not capture it, and it seems to be nowhere else either. May have to ask people at Scottish-Enterprise.com.
• Ray, Celeste (May 2010). Ancestral Clanscapes and Transatlantic Tartaneers. Symposium on Return Migration. Edinburgh: Scottish Centre for Diaspora Studies. – Don't know how to get that paper, but it seems to have been reworked into a chapter of: Varricchio, Mario, ed. (2012). Back to Caledonia: Scottish Homecomings from the Seventeenth Century to the Present. Edinburgh: John Donald Publishers. ISBN 9781906566449.
• Newton, Michael Steven (September–October 2004). "Scotland and America: Forever Tartan?". History Scotland. pp. 46–51.
• Probably only findable on paper in a British library: The Coat of Arms, July–October 1959, includes: "D. A. and R. Saunders discuss, with the assistance of numerous diagrams, the history and making of Scottish tartans".

Papers available in full-text:

• Greenwood, Karina (6 April 2018). The Tartan Ladies: A Comparative Analysis of Tartan and Gender Through Queen Victoria and the Scottish Suffragettes (PDF). Undergraduate Journal of Art History and Visual Culture 14th Annual Art History Undergraduate Symposium. University of British Columbia.
• Wehbé, Seta K. (2006). La Mode à l’Écossaise: Textile of Diplomacy. Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. Textile Society of America / University of Nebraska – Lincoln. 299.
• Grierson, Su (1984). "Vegetable Dyes of Scotland". Journal of the Society of Dyers & Colourists. 100: 209–211.
• Grierson, Su; Duff, David; Sinclair, Roy S. (1985). "The Colour and Fastness of Natural Dyes of the Scottish Highlands". Journal of the Society of Dyers & Colourists. 101: 220–228.
• Tuckett, Sally J. S. (2010). Weaving the Nation: Scottish Clothing and Textile Cultures in the Long Eighteenth Century (PDF) (PhD). University of Edinburgh.
• Hann, Michael; Wang, Chaoran (2016). "Symmetry, ratio and proportion in Scottish clan tartans". The Research Journal of the Costume Culture. 24 (6): 873–885. doi:10.7741/rjcc.2016.24.6.873.
• Pinkerton, William (1858). "The Highland Kilt and the Old Irish Dress". Ulster Journal of Archaeology. 6: 316–327. – This is an old primary source, but might contain something usable.
• Brown, Ian (2005). "In Exile from Ourselves?". Études écossaises (10): 123–141. doi:10.4000/etudesecossaises.155.
• Lumsden, Keith (2000). "Scottish Tartans: An Indexing Challenge". The Indexer. 22 (2). Liverpool University Press: 69–71. doi:10.3828/indexer.2000.22.2.5. ISSN 1756-0632.
• Brancaz, Lauren Ann-Killian (2016). "The Homecoming of Tartan: How Scotland and North America Collaborate in Shaping Tartan". Études écossaises (18): 69–87. doi:10.4000/etudesecossaises.1074.

Books to check out:

• Brown, Ian, ed. (2012) [2010]. From Tartan to Tartanry: Scottish Culture, History and Myth. Edinburgh University Press. ISBN 978-0748664641. – "This critical re-evaluation of tartan in Scottish culture draws together contributions from leading researchers in a wide variety of disciplines, resulting in a highly authoritative volume." I have this on hand and it is what I'm currently going through for the WP article, as of 2023-07-05. This is going to be a lot of slow work, as it is dense, academic material.
• Cowan, Edward J.; Finlay, Richard J., eds. (2002). Scottish History: The Power of the Past. Edinburgh University Press. – One essay from this edited volume has already been cited, but there are probably more of use here. It's a non-cheap academic volume, but may be available from JSTOR [28].
• Telfer Dunbar, John (1979) [1962]. History of Highland Dress. Oliver & Boyd. ISBN 978-0713418941. – I have used this source (all of it) already, as of 2023-07-05.
• Scarlett, James D. (1990). Tartan: The Highland Textile. London: Shepheard-Walwyn. pp. 36–37. ISBN 978-0856831201. – I have plundered most of this for material already. I did not go over the tartan-by-tartan "The Setts of the Tartans" chapter that makes up the bulk of the book (and there are surely a few gems hidden in there), because there are much bigger source fish to fry.
• Telfer Dunbar, John (1990) [1981]. The Costume of Scotland. B. T. Batsford. ISBN 978-0713425352. – the two printings have the same number of pages so are probably equivalent. The ISBN here is for the 1990 printing, but the URL goes to the 1981 version. I have the 1990 version on order anyway.
• McClintock, H. F. (1950) [1943]. Old Irish and Highland Dress (2nd enlarged ed.). Dundalk: W. Tempest / Dundalgan Press. 2 vols. – I've bit the bullet and ordered this, trans-Atlantic (because the US sellers wanted even more than the British ones with shipping).
• Sutton, Ann; Carr, Richard (1984). Tartans: Their Art and History. New York: Arco. ISBN 9780668061896 – via Internet Archive. – This sounds worth getting, but it's available free online, so yay.
• Zaczek, Iain; Phillips, Charles (2013) [2004]. The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Tartan. Wigston, Leicestershire: Anness Publishing. ISBN 9781780192758. – This appears to just be a newered edition, under a new title, of the work below. I have this one on-hand.
• Zaczek, Iain; Phillips, Charles (2006) [2004]. The Complete Book of Tartan. Edinburgh: Lomond Books. ISBN 9781842040874. – There's a newer 2013 printing/edition from another publisher (see above), but unknown if it materially differs. We cite it once, so see if the page number cited for the paper one above still works for this online version (if so, swap out a citation to this one, since it's online-verifiable).
• Zaczek, Iain (2005). The History of Tartan. Wigston, Leicestershire: Anness Publishing. ISBN 9781844762095. – The one is different from the above two. I have a copy on order.
• Scarlett, James D. (1973). The Tartan Spotter's Guide. Shepheard-Walwyn. ISBN 978-0856830037. – Only 84 pages, but a reviewer says "explains a lot in a very concise and easily understood manner. It is a great tool and resource in a small package." Might be useful for terminology citations, etc. I ordered a copy, since I found it cheap.
• Scarlett, James D. (1985). The Tartan Weaver's Guide. London: Shepheard-Walwyn. ISBN 9780856830785. – Might have useful info in it, but has become a pricey collectors' item.
• McOwan, Rennie; Urquhart, Blair; Urquart, Libby (2001) [1996]. Tartans: The Facts & Myths – An illustrated historical guide (2nd ed.). Stroud: History Press / Jarrold. ISBN 9780711716698. – Sounds worth a look, so I ordered it.
• Cheape, Hugh (2006) [1991]. Tartan: The Highland Habit (3rd ed.). Edinburgh: National Museums Scotland. ISBN 978-1905267026. The old 1991 edition is available online [29]. I have the 3rd ed. on hand now.
• Grange, Richard M. D. (1966). A Short History of the Scottish Dress. London: Burke's Peerage. – Surprisingly makes a case for Lowland origin of tartan and its spread to the Highlands; this is too bold a claim to even mention in the WP article without reading it in detail and giving it a serious WP:DUEWEIGHT analysis.
• Pastoureau, Michel (2003) [1991]. The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes. Translated by Gladding, Jody. Washington Square Press. ISBN 978-0743453264. – I think this covers some tartan-style cloth in South America and elsewhere. Old edition is available online[30].
• Faiers, Jonathan (2021) [2008]. Welters, Linda (ed.). Tartan. "Textiles That Changed the World" series (2nd ed.). Bloomsbury Visual Arts. ISBN 978-1350193772. – The old 2008 edition is available online [31]. I have the current edition on order.
• Sutton, Ann; Carr, Richard; Cripps, David (1984). Tartans: Their Art and History. New York: Arco. ISBN 978-0668061896.
• Fulton, Alexander (1999). Clans and Families of Scotland: The History of the Scottish Tartan. Edison, New Jersey: Chartwell.
• Kinloch Anderson, Deirdre (2013). A Scottish Tradition: Tailors and Kiltmakers, Tartan and Highland Dress Since 1868. Castle Douglas: Kinloch Anderson Ltd / Neil Wilson Publishing.
• Franklyn, Mary Eliza (1979). The Wearing of the Tartan. Halifax, Nova Scotia: Petheric Press. ISBN 9780919380301.
• Mackay, J. G.; Macleod, Norman. The Romantic Story of the Highland Garb and the Tartan. Stirling: E. Mackay. – This is old enough it should be treated as a primary source. Update: I have plundered this already for everything usable in it for this article.
• Browne, James (1838). A History of the Highlands and of the Highland Clans. Glasgow: A. Fullarton & Co. – Old; treat as primary source. This material may be integrated into the larger, later, multi-author source just above.
• Way of Plean, George; Squire, Romily (1994). Scottish Clan & Family Encyclopedia. Glasgow: HarperCollins / Standing Council of Scottish Chiefs. ISBN 9780760711200 – via Internet Archive. – This one may actually have some historical information about tartan in it. However, there's a newer edition than this, 1998, ISBN 978-0760711200. The article already has one citation to the 1994 version. I've ordered the 1998 version, since I found it for a pittance.
• Way of Plean, George; Squire, Romilly (2000) [1995]. Clans & Tartans. Collins Pocket Reference. Glasgow: HarperCollins. ISBN 0-00-472501-8 – via Internet Archive. – This is mostly a pocket flip-book of clan tartans, but did have some usable info in it; it's cited at least once in the article. If the same info can be found in their other book above, might be better to just cite the one.
• Hesketh, Christian (1972) [1961]. Tartans. London/New York: Octopus. ISBN 9780706400335.
• Ralph Lewis, Brenda (2004). Tartans. Edison, New Jersey: Chartwell.
• Bolton, Andrew (2003). Bravehearts: Men in Skirts. Victoria & Albert Museum. ISBN 978-0810965584. – Despite the vague topical scope, apparently has a significant amount of kilt & tartan stuff in it.
• Harvie, Christopher (2004) [1977]. Scotland and Nationalism: Scottish Society and Politics 1707 to the Present (4th ed.). London: Routledge. ISBN 978-0415327251. – Very broad topic, but does address tartan as a nationalism symbol. Hinderks (2014) cited an old edition of this.
• Mackay, J. G. (1924). The Romantic Story of the Highland Garb and Tartan. Stirling: Eneas Mackay. – very partial text is available online here[32]
• Miller, Haswell (1956). Common Errors in Scottish History. Historical Association. – Has good material in it, quoted by a blogger here[33]. I'll use that intermediary source in the interim, as the original book is very elusive.
• Clyde, Robert (1995). From Rebel to Hero: The Changing Image of the Highlander, 1745–1830. Tuckwell Press. ISBN 978-1862320277. – I've ordered a copy of this.
• Prebble, John (2000) [1988]. The King's Jaunt: George IV in Scotland, 1822. London: Birlinn. ISBN 9781841580685. – I've ordered a copy of this.
• Wilton, Brian (2007). Tartans. Quarto Publishing/Aurum Press/National Trust for Scotland. ISBN 9781845130985. – Seems to be a combination of an overview book like Banks & de La Chapell's Tartan: Romancing the Plaid and a clan-tartans identifier book. I ordered it anyway just in case because I found it for very cheap.
• Teall of Teallach, Gordon; Smith, Philip D., Jr. (1992). District Tartans. Shepheard-Walwyn. ISBN 9780856830853.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) – This is potentially useful, but I'm not ordering it until working on a district tartans side article. Never mind; I found it cheap, so I ordered it.
• Bain, Robert; MacDougall, Margaret (1984) [1938]. The Clans and Tartans of Scotland (7th reprint of revised 1974 ed.). Fontana/Collins. ISBN 978-0004111179. – This is the classic clan tartan "flip book", in the latest edition I can identify. I ordered this one since I found it very cheap, and should probably have one of these (though will only need one, so might as well go with the original).
• Ritchie, R. J. (1990). The Wilson Mills of Bannockburn. Bannockburn Heritage Group. – Little 32-page local-history publication; will be nearly impossible to find.
• Collie, George Francis, ed. (1948). Highland Dress. London: Penguin – via Internet Archive.
• McLeod, George (c. 1945). Highland Dress and How to Wear It. Calgary: George McLeod Department Store – via Internet Archive.
• MacKinnon, Charles Roy (1970). Tartans and Highland dress. Glasgow: Collins. ISBN 9780004111148 – via Internet Archive.
• Macdonald, Fiona (2016). Scottish Tartan and Highland Dress. "A Very Peculiar History" series. Book House. ISBN 978-1908759894.
• Stewart Leith, Murray; Sim, Duncan (2020). "Images of Scotland". Scotland: The New State of an Old Nation. Manchester University Press. doi:10.7765/9781526127792. ISBN 9781784992552. – Book is a general sociological overview of modern Scotland; chapter focuses on tartan, Kailyard literature, Clydseism, and other themes.
• Harper, Marjorie (2009). "Transplanted Identities: Remembering and Reinventing Scotland Across the Diaspora". In Bueltmann, Tanja; Morton, Graeme; Hinson, Andrew (eds.). Ties of Bluid, Kin and Countrie: Scottish Associational Culture in the Diaspora. Centre for Scottish Studies, University of Guelph. ISBN 9780889555778.
• McCrone, David; Morris, Angela; Kiely, Richard (1999) [1995]. Scotland – the Brand: The Making of Scottish Heritage (2nd ed.). Polygon / Edinburgh University Press. ISBN 9780748662593.
• Moffat, Alistair (2023). Scotland's Forgotten Past: A History of the Mislaid, Misplaced and Misunderstood. Thames & Hudson. ISBN 9780500252642. – Blurb says it has a chapter on "the invention of tartan and the romance of the Highlands"
• Brett, David (1992). On Decoration. Cambridge: Lutterworth Press. ISBN 9780718828011. – Something potentially interesting in this work on "social ideologies" behind British approaches to design: "[The author] reminds us how William Morris was urged ... to search for something 'English in character' in his designs ... 'reinventing a golden age of English design, before the factory system'. Use is made of ideas relating to 'the invention of tradition' to draw attention to the fabricated preindustrial origins of Highland dress and specific tartans in Scotland, the author further developing the discussion in a brief exploration of aspects of the Celtic Revival in Ireland, including attempts to invent a national costume." It's quite expensive for about a 100-page book, so good that it's available via Internet Archive "check out".
• Helland, Janice (2007). British and Irish Home Arts and Industries 1880–1914: Marketing Craft, Making Fashion. Irish Academic Press. ISBN 9780716528913. – From review: "an examination of the revival of Irish and Scottish cottage textile crafts — the embroidering of poplin, lacemaking, and the weaving of tweed and tartan — that also demonstrates the complexities and tensions caused by the 'internal colonization' of the so-called Celtic fringe by London society." One of the sources we're already citing seems to have been influenced by this, perhaps tertiarily, as it used the exact phrase "internal colonisation", namely Hinderks (2014), pp. 8–9, citing Dziennik (2012), and Nicholson (2005). The books is comparatively quite expensive, around $75 used. :-(
• Young, Caroline; Martin, Ann (2017). Tartan Tweed. London: Frances Lincoln. ISBN 9780711238220. – A bit pricey.
• Millar Fisher, Michelle (2017). "Kilt". In Antonelli, Paola (ed.). Items: Is Fashion Modern?. New York: Museum of Modern Art. pp. 152–153 – via Internet Archive. – There may be a useful sentence or two in this mini-essay.

Sources to probably skip:

Extended content

Moore, Rachel (1995). The Semiotics of Tartan (MA). University of Central England. – Does not seem to be online, and probably not useful as a source anyway, since it's just a master's thesis. Telfer Dunbar, John (1977). Highland Costume. William Blackwood & Sons. – Skip this one; it's just a 62-page booklet. Zaczek, Iain (2001). World Tartans. Barnes & Noble. ISBN 9780760725894. – This one is just another tartan flip-book of clan and district tartans, that also includles US, Canadian, Australian, etc. entries. I don't think it goes into historical use of tartan-style cloth in world cultures, so it is unlikely to be of use for this article. Scarlett, James D. (1972). Tartans of Scotland. Lutterworth Press. ISBN 978-0718819309. – This appears to be another flip-book of clan tartan images, like Bain's guide; probably of no use for this article. Urquhart, Blair, ed. (1998). Tartans: The New Compact Study Guide and Identifier. London: Apple Books. ISBN 9781850764991. – This might be the newest edition of Urquhart; I'll have to check. This [34] seem to be the hardback edition from the same year, presumably with the same text. As a "flip book" of clans and tartans, I don't see much use for it at this article, though. Phillips, Charles (2005). Tartan: An Illustrated Directory. London: Southwater. ISBN 9781844761555. –Another tartans flip-book, probably not useful here. Zaczek, Iain (2000) [1998]. Clans & Tartans of Scotland. New York: Barnes & Noble. ISBN 9780760720745. – Another clan tartans flip-book, probably useless for this article. Zaczek, Iain; Mair, Jacqui (2001). The Book of Scottish Clans. New York: Barnes & Noble. ISBN 9780760725900. – Ditto. Munro, R. W. (1977). Highland Clans and Tartans. London: Octopus Books. ISBN 9781850520771. – Ditto. Costantino, Maria (2010) [2003]. Handbook of Clans & Tartans of Scotland. Bideford, Devon: Kerswell Farm. ISBN 9781906239565. Scottish Tartans Authority (2017) [2014]. Clans and Tartans: Traditional Scottish Tartans. Glasgow: HarperCollins. ISBN 9780008251093. – Ditto. McNab, Christopher (2010). Clans & Tartans of Scotland & Ireland. Lomond Books / Scottish Tartans World Register. ISBN 9781842042496. – Ditto, and giving imprimatur to industry-created "Irish tartans" makes the reliability suspect, despite the publisher. Pickels, Dwayne E. (1997). Scottish Clans and Tartans. Chelsea House. - Yet another clan tartans flip-book of dubious use for this article. Grant, James; Thompson, J. Charles (1992). Scottish Tartans in Full Color. New York: Dover. ISBN 9780486270463. – Ditto. Davis, Jenni; Bold, Alan. Scottish Clans & Tartans: The Pitkin Guide. Norwich: Jarrold Pub. ISBN 9781841650517. – Ditto. Grimble, Ian (2013). Scottish Clans & Tartans. Broxburn: Lomond Books. ISBN 9781842043417. – Ditto. Innes of Learney, Thomas (1983). The Scottish Tartans: Histories of the Clans, Chiefs' Arms, and Clansmen's Badges. Stirling: Johnson & Bacon. – Ditto. Grant, Neil (2000). Scottish Clans & Tartans. London: Hamlyn. ISBN 9780600597766. – Ditto. MacLean, Charles (1998) [1995]. The Lomond Pocket Book of Clans and Tartans. Lomond Books. ISBN 9780947782559. – Ditto. MacLean, Charles (1990). The Clan Almanac: A Complete Guide to Scottish Family Names. Moffat: Lochar. ISBN 9780948403392. – Ditto. Scottish Clans & Tartans: History of Each Clan and Full List of Septs. New York: Dorset. 1991. ISBN 9780880297240. – Ditto. Martine, Roderick; Pottinger, Don (1992). Scottish Clan and Family Names: Their Arms, Origins, and Tartans (New ed.). Edinburgh: Mainstream. – Ditto. Grant, Neil (1998). Clans and Tartans of Scotland. Hertfordshire: Regency House. ISBN 9781853614651. – Ditto. (There's a 2000 edition, ISNB 9781585740949, but I doubt it's different (probably just hardcover vs. softcover.) The Scottish Clans and Their Tartans, with Notes. Edinburgh/London: W. & A. K. Johnston. c. 1900. – Yet another clan-tartans book. And old enough it has to be treated as a primary source. Martine, Roddy (2004) [1987]. Scottish Clans and Famliy Names: Their Arms, Origins and Tartans (New ed.). Mainstream Publishing. ISBN 9781840189841. – Another clan tartans flip-book; can't see any use for that at this article. Martine, Roddy (2022). Clans and Tartans of Scotland. Birlinn. ISBN 9781780277745. – Ditto. Grimble, Ian (2002) [1977]. Scottish Clans & Tartans: 150 tartans illustrated in full colour. Book Sales Inc. ISBN 9780785815082. – Yet another clan tartans flip-book. Don't need this for this article. Phillips, Charles (2005). Tartan: An Illustrated Directory. Wigston, Leicestershire: Anness Publishing. ISBN 9781844761555. – Sounds like another flip-book of clan tartans. Ralph-Lewis, Brenda (2023). Tartans: From Scottish Clans to Canadian Provinces. Amber Books. ISBN 9781838863227. – Sounds like a "coffee table book", and seems (from its blurb) to devote a lot of material to US and Canadian designs; I'm skipping this one. Ralph-Lewis, Brenda (2004). Tartans: Over 300 historic and modern tartans from around the world. Chartwell. ISBN 9780785818793. – Yet another tartan flip-book. Mackay, James (2008). Clans & Tartans of Scotland & Ireland. Barnes & Noble. ISBN 9781435109148. – Ditto. And just the fact that it takes "Irish tartans" seriously, despite them being wholly a product of the industry for marketing to Irish-Americans, with no connection to actual Irish tradition, makes it a suspect source. Smith, Philip D., Jr. (2019) [1986]. Tartan For Me! Suggested Tartans for Scottish, Scotch-Irish, Irish, and North American Surnames with Lists of Clan, Family, and District Tartans (9th expanded ed.). Heritage Books. ISBN 9780788452703.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) – Same comment as above; this is clearly pandering to and being continually updated for bogus "Irish tartans" being churned out for Americans; won't have anything useful for a historical WP article. And it's expensive anyway. (Seems to originally have been titled Tartans for the Irish! Suggested Tartans for Irish and Ulster Scots Names, though that might actualy be a largely redundant separate book.) The only use I can think of for this is for eventual articles on non-Scottish tartans, since it covers Welsh, Manx, Cornish, etc. Fulton, Alexander. Scotland and Her Tartans: The Romantic Heritage of the Scottish Clans and Families. Hodder & Stoughton. ISBN 9780340572085. – Yet another clan tartans index; can't see this being useful. Stewart, Jude (2015). Patternalia: An Unconventional History of Polka Dots, Stripes, Plaid, Camouflage, & Other Graphic Patterns. Bloomsbury. ISBN 9781632861085. – This looks pretty thin on "history", versus pattern terminology. Richardson, Catherine, ed. (2004). Clothing Culture, 1350–1650. Routledge. ISBN 9781138273542. – Sounded promising (despite being a very expensive academic volume), but doesn't seem to mention tartan at all. Dobbs, S. P., ed. (2006) [2005]. The Clothing Workers of Great Britain. "Studies in Economic and Political Science" series. Routledge. ISBN 9781138865037. – Possible this has some information on English woollen mills producing competitive tartan, but I'm doing going to buy it to find out. Rose, Clare; Richmond, Vivienne, eds. (2011). Clothing, Society and Culture in Nineteenth-Century England. Routledge. ISBN 9781138751880. 3 vols. – Ditto. Toplis, Alison, ed. (2011). The Clothing Trade in Provincial England, 1800–1850. Routledge. ISBN 9781138664449. – Ditto. Thanhauser, Sofi (2023). Worn: A People's History of Clothing. Vintage. ISBN 978-0525566731. – Has a chapter on woollen history, but unknown if it addresses tartan. Postrel, Virginia (2021). The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the World. Basic Books. ISBN 978-1541617629. – May or may not cover tartan. St. Clair, Kassia (2021). The Golden Thread: How Fabric Changed History. Liveright. ISBN 978-1631499012. – Ditto. Finlay, Victoria (2022). Fabric: The Hidden History of the Material World. Pegasus Books. ISBN 978-1639363902. – Seems very ecclectic and may not have relevant content. Hunter, Clare (2020). Threads of Life: A History of the World Through the Eye of a Needle. Harry N. Abrams. ISBN 978-1419747656. – May be more about sewing and needlepoint than weaving. Butler Greenfield, Amy (2006). A Perfect Red: Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire. Harper Perennial. ISBN 978-0060522766. – Entire book on the history of cochineal; not terribly relevant here, but might be good for improving enc. coverage of that dye. Thompson Ford, Richard (2022). Dress Codes: How the Laws of Fashion Made History. Simon & Schuster. ISBN 978-1501180088. – Exact content unknown; might have material on the evolution of Highland dress, but I doubt it (look for detailed reviews). Edwards, Lydia (2021) [2017]. How to Read a Dress: A Guide to Changing Fashion from the 16th to the 21st Century (2nd revised ed.). Bloomsbury. ISBN 978-1350172210. – Might be of some relevance in interpreting dresses in old portraits Harrold, Robert (1978). Folk Costumes of the World. London: Blandford Press. – Does have a segment on Highland dress, but this tertiary source is unlikely to contain anything not already found in better, secondary sources above. Betker, Katelyn Larissa (August 2016). Fabricating Gender Identity: Analyzing the Evolution of the Highland Kilt and Tartan (MA). Saskatchewan: University of Regina. – Very weak masters thesis; its central theme that Highland dress has been gendered, since before its spread from the Highlands, is correct; but in detail, it is a gender-politics polemic, and contains multiple factual errors on almost every page (probably because it is mostly lacking in quality source material).

On the Scottish Tartans Museum, which needs its own article:

• Lofthouse, Brittney (December 14, 2017). "Scottish Tartans expands, adds new exhibits". The Macon County News. Franklin, North Carolina. Archived from the original on May 10, 2022.
• "Dr Gordon Teall". The Herald. Glasgow. July 25, 1997. – Has a little about the original museum in Comrie, Scotland.

See also:

• Talk:Regimental tartan#Additional sources, Talk:Highland dress#Additional sources, Talk:Highland dance#Additional sources, Talk:Highland games/Archives/2023 1#Additional sources, Talk:Scottish diaspora#Additional sources, Talk:Tartanry#Additional sources, Talk:Tartan Day#Additional sources

 — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  02:50, 18 June 2023 (UTC); rev'd. 18:11, 2 October 2023 (UTC)

Sources on ancient samples, and history of cloth

Our article at Tarim mummies says "Textile expert Elizabeth Wayland Barber, who examined the tartan-style cloth, discusses similarities between it and fragments recovered from salt mines associated with the Hallstatt culture." But it doesn't cite Barber's own book for this, instead citing some paywalled paper. Weird. Anyway, this book is probably worth reviewing for details on the cloth. We've mentioned her briefly (as cited by Banks & de La Chapelle). This is the book:

• Wayland Barber, Elizabeth J. (2000) [1999]. The Mummies of Ürümchi. London: W. W. Norton & Co. ISBN 978-0393320190. – I have ordered a copy of this, and hae it now.

An NYT article [35] based on Wayland Barber's stuff says: "Tracing the origin of plaid cloth to Anatolia and the Caucasus, the steppe area north of the Black Sea, her conclusion is: 'Starting from the general vicinity of the Caucasus, one group went west, the other east.'" So, she's apparently got some detailed analysis on the spread of early tartan-type cloth, which presumably includes other pre-medieval finds than the ones we're mentioning already. A different NYT article (May 1996) mentions her work again: "Dr. Elizabeth J. W. Barber, a linguist and archeologist at Occidental College in Los Angeles and the author of Prehistoric Textiles (Princeton University Press, 1991), said that plaid twills had first been discovered in the ruins of Troy, from about 2600 B.C., but had not been common in the Bronze Age." It also says that material (including by Victor H. Mair) relating the Tarim mummies was published in the then-current issue of [36]

A Guardian article[37] says: "Textile expert Elizabeth Wayland Barber says in her new book, The Mummies of Urumchi, that the woollen plaids discovered on the mummies could only have been woven on warp-weighted looms, which originated in Europe via the Middle East."

Wayland Barber has another book of probable interest here, but this one is a more expensive academic volume:

• Wayland Barber, Elizabeth J. (1992). Prehistoric Textiles: The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with Special Reference to the Aegean. Princeton University Press. ISBN 978-0691002248.

And other that could have something relevant in it:

• Wayland Barber, Elizabeth J. (1996) [1995]. Women's Work: The First 20,000 Years – Women, Cloth, and Society in Early Times. W. W. Norton. ISBN 978-0393313482.

Also: "University of Pennsylvania anthropologist Irene Good, a specialist in early Eurasian textiles" apparently analyzed some of the cloth, and may have published something separately. Another news quote about her, from 1996: " Irene Good, a specialist in textile archeology at the Pennsylvania museum, said that the plaid fabric was 'virtually identical stylistically and technically to textile fragments' found in Austria and Germany at sites from a somewhat later period, about 700 B.C." [38] It would be good to find her publications.

Dunbar (1979), pp. 48–49, says: The early textiles to be found in Scotland have been well described by Audrey S. Henshall in papers published in the Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, 1951. The actual specimens date from the Romano-British period to the seventeenth century and are to be seen in the Scottish National Museum of Antiquaries, Edinburgh. This means there are extant samples between the "Falkirk tartan" and the "Glen Affic tartan" that our article is not accounting for. Might take some work to track down Henshall's articles, as Dunbar did not cite them in detail. He quotes from one, but not specify which, nor provide the estimated date of the sample being described, so it's presently useless for our article.

See also:

• Hayeur Smith, Michèl (2023). The Valkyries' Loom: The Archaeology of Cloth Production and Female Power in the North Atlantic. University Press of Florida. ISBN 978-0813080116. – Might have something on the Scandinavia tartan (Jutland, Sweden) reported from the Roman era, though it seems to mostly focus on Iceland and Greenland.

Newsome (in one of his weaker, more introductory articles) says "Tartan has been found on mummies in Kazakhstan from 2000 BC", but doesn't provide any further detail [39]. Scottish Register of Tartans provides a reconstruction of what the tartan would have looked like originally [40], also without details. I'm not sure yet where this came from and have to hope that Wayland Barber's book covers it.

• Hemphill, Brian E.; Mallory, J. P. (19 September 2003). "Horse-mounted invaders from the Russo-Kazakh steppe or agricultural colonists from western Central Asia? A craniometric investigation of the Bronze Age settlement of Xinjiang". American Journal of Biological Anthropology. 124 (3). doi:10.1002/ajpa.10354. – Despite the craniometry focus, it apparently has information on the ancient Kazakhstan tartan.

 — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  19:44, 10 June 2023 (UTC), rev'd. 13:23, 21 September 2023 (UTC)

Term "Highland Revival period"

Resolved

 – Worked it in.

P. E. MacDonald uses this term fairly often, though with exact-date definitions that vary a little. "The years 1780-1840 are known as the Highland Revival period." [41] and "There are no known examples of Highland Revival clothing being retrospective, they are stylistically all contemporary with the fashion of the time c.1780-1840." [42], versus "In costume terms the Highland Revival refers to the period c1782-1837 in which, as the name suggests, there was a revival of interest in, and wearing of, Highland Dress following the Act Repealing the Proscription of Highland Dress in 1782." [43] (1837 was the beginning of Victoria's reign.)

Anyway, not sure whether to integrate it here at all or put it in Highland dress.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  01:26, 1 July 2023 (UTC)

I integrated this briefly at the top of the Georgian section.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  07:04, 6 July 2023 (UTC)

Tarim mummies factoid

An anon pasted in the following (kind of in mid-sentence):

however, it is believed that the practice and use of coloured wool was imported through migration, as scientists have said, clothes of wool, felt and leather were unusual for the region .

References

This may be correct, but it's off-topic for this article (especially for it's lead section!), so I have removed it. If this source is good, it's probably something to include at Tarim mummies, and I'm making note of it here for that reason. If someone else doesn't get around to examining this and, if appropriate, including something about it over there, then I probably will at some point. Maybe something about this could be in the history section here, but this article is already over-long. (See other section about that, and splitting progress.)  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  12:01, 2 February 2024 (UTC)

Kirkin' o' the tartan

We have an article on this now, so should integrate mention of it in the 20th-century section.  — SMcCandlish ☏ ¢ 😼  15:19, 3 February 2024 (UTC)

Revert needed

• I do not have an account and so cannot rollback this obvious vandalism. The "editor" already has a spam warning from self-promoting elsewhere.

212.79.110.147 (talk) 14:17, 17 May 2024 (UTC)

References

Absurdly long and detailed

This is literally the longest non-list article on Wikipedia. What the hell. For one, the sections on history and clan tartans could be split, but also, the detail can be very excessive. I'm not knowledgeable or interested in this topic, but the insanity of this article caught my eye. BoxOfTurtles (talk) 02:59, 9 October 2024 (UTC)

Maybe notify WP:CLAN? 00101984hjw (talk) 18:00, 20 October 2024 (UTC)

@WP:CLAN BoxOfTurtles (talk) 14:02, 21 October 2024 (UTC)

LOL, no. I meant leave a discussion topic on the talk page of WikiProject Clans of Scotland. That's not how {{ping}} works btw. You can only ping individual users. -- 00101984hjw (talk) 02:43, 22 October 2024 (UTC)

sorry I'm new to this :sob: BoxOfTurtles (talk) 12:24, 22 October 2024 (UTC)