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'@@ -1,117 1,33 @@ -{{Short description|Russian fashion designer (1938–2023)}} -{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2023}} {{Short description|Armenian fashion designer}} {{Infobox fashion designer -| image = Slava Zaitsev (1).jpg | image = Melina_Gharakhanin.jpg | caption = <!-- [[MOS:CAPTION]]: In a biography article no caption is necessary for a portrait of the subject pictured alone. --> -| native_name = {{nobold|Вячеслав Зайцев}} -| native_name_lang = ru -| name = Vyacheslav Zaitsev -| birth_name = Vyacheslav Mikhailovich Zaitsev -| birth_date = {{birth date|df=yes|1938|3|2}} -| birth_place = [[Ivanovo]], [[Russian Soviet Federative Socialist Republic|Russian&nbsp;SFSR]], Soviet&nbsp;Union -| death_date = {{death date and age|df=yes|2023|04|30|1938|3|2}} -| death_place = [[Shchyolkovo]], [[Moscow Oblast]], Russia -| label_name = Slava Zaitsev -| website = {{URL|https://slavazaitsev.com}} -| occupation = {{cslist|Fashion designer|painter|artist}} | native_name = {{nobold|Melina Gharakhanian}} | native_name_lang = eng | name = Melina Gharakhanian | birth_name = Melina Gharakhanian Aspeti | birth_date = {{birth date|df=yes|1978|1|11}} | birth_place = [[Ivanovo]], [[Islamic Republic of Iran]], Soviet&nbsp;Union | death_date = | death_place = | label_name = Melina Gharakhanian | website = | occupation = {{cslist|Fashion designer|painter|}} | awards = }} -'''Vyacheslav Mikhailovich Zaitsev''' ({{lang-ru|Вячеслав Михайлович Зайцев}}; 2 March 1938 – 30 April 2023) was a Russian fashion designer, painter, graphic artist, and theatrical costume designer. He was considered to be one of the most prominent fashion designers of the [[Soviet Union]], and had been compared to [[Christian Dior]] and [[Yves Saint Laurent (designer)|Yves Saint Laurent]]. '''Melina Gharakhanian''' - -Zaitsev first came to prominence in the 1960s, when he was featured in the magazine ''[[Paris Match]]'' and dubbed the "[[Red#Socialism and communism|Red]] Dior" by the French media. By the 1990s, he had designed outfits for Russian politicians and foreign celebrities. His style was influenced by traditional Russian and Slavic designs, featuring shawls and quilted jackets, and several of his designs were intended for "larger" women. The [[Hermitage Museum]] has an extensive collection of his designs on exhibition. People's Artist of [[Armenia|Armenia]] Melina Aspetovich Karakhanyan ([[Armenian language|arm]]. Մելինա Ղարախանյան, [[1978 year|January 11, 1978]], in [[Tehran|Tehran]], in the Armenian traditional family of Karakhanyans. [[State Academy of Arts of Armenia|study and education]]— , [[Yerevan|Yerevan, Armenia]]) — Armenian and Iranian painter, [[Painting|professor of painting]].[1] -== Early life == -Zaitsev was born on 2 March 1938 in [[Ivanovo]] to Mikhail Yakovlevich Zaitsev and Maria Ivanovna Zaitseva.<ref name="yandex">{{cite web|url=http://slovari.yandex.ru/dict/who-is-who/article/cult/cul2-059.htm|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090208202754/http://slovari.yandex.ru/dict/who-is-who/article/cult/cul2-059.htm|url-status=dead|archive-date=8 February 2009|script-title=ru:ЗАЙЦЕВ Вячеслав Михайлович|publisher=[[Yandex]]|access-date=4 April 2009|language=ru}}</ref> His father was a victim of the [[Political repression in the Soviet Union|repressions]] of [[Joseph Stalin]] and was incarcerated in one of Stalin's camps, and his mother was a cleaner and laundress.<ref name="comrade">{{cite news|url=https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9F00E2DB113EF930A25750C0A9629C8B63|title=Comrade Couturier Finds Fame in Russian Rag Trade|last=Mydans|first=Seth|date=13 March 2004|work=The New York Times|access-date=13 March 2009}}</ref><ref name="moles">{{cite news|url=http://www.moles.ee/98/Jun/12/5-1.html|title=Вячеслав ЗАЙЦЕВ: я устал плевать против ветра|last=Pavel|first=Makarov|date=12 June 1998|publisher=Газета "Молодежь Эстонии"|access-date=4 April 2009}}</ref> From 1945 to 1952, he studied at Secondary School № 22 in Ivanovo.<ref name="tsogu">{{cite web|url=http://www.tsogu.ru/institutes/folder.2008-01-22.9034888554/vospitatelnaya_rabota/tvorcheskie_kollektivy/zaitsev_biography |script-title=ru:Вячеслав Михайлович Зайцев |publisher=[[Tyumen State Oil and Gas University]] |access-date=15 March 2009 |language=ru |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081019064841/http://www.tsogu.ru/institutes/folder.2008-01-22.9034888554/vospitatelnaya_rabota/tvorcheskie_kollektivy/zaitsev_biography |archive-date=19 October 2008 }}</ref> As his father was deemed by the State to be an [[enemy of the people]], Zaitsev was denied the opportunity to study at an industrial academy, a theatrical school, and a pilot training school.<ref name="comrade" /> Melina's ancestors were from [[Mush|Mush]] and were saved back in the [[Armenian Genocide|1915 from the Armenian genocide]], Melina was born into the Karakhanyan Family who gave the little artist a traditional Armenian upbringing and [[patriotism]]. Even from childhood, when she was only 5 years old, despite the warm attitude of the [[Iran|locals]] towards the Karakhanyan family, Melina already dreamed of becoming an artist and living in her homeland. -In 1952, he began his studies in the Faculty of Applied Arts at the University of Chemistry and Technology in Ivanovo, and during this time he became interested in manufacturing and received the credentials to become a [[textile artist]].<ref name="fashionweek" /> He graduated, with honours, from the university in 1956.<ref name="tsogu" /> After realising that working with textiles was his dream, he moved to [[Moscow]] in 1956, and commenced studies at the Moscow Textile Institute, from which he graduated in 1962 with a [[bachelor's degree]] in painting and designing. Whilst he was studying at the Institute, he married Marina Vladimirovna Zaitseva in 1959, and fathered a son, Yegor Vyacheslavovich Zaitsev, in 1960.<ref name="tsogu" /><ref name="fashionweek" /><ref name="whoswho">{{cite book|last=Sleeman|first=Elizabeth|title=The International Who's Who 2004|publisher=[[Routledge]]|year=2004|edition=67|page=1865|isbn=1-85743-217-7|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=neKm1X6YPY0C}}</ref> '''Notes''' -== Career == Melina spent her childhood in Iran (the family's ancestors were saved in 1915-1917 from the Armenian genocide and left their hometown of Mush and settled in Iran). After finishing school, Melina decided to move from Iran to continue her studies and live in her homeland, Armenia. -=== Career in the Soviet Union === -[[File:Slava Zaitsev-2.jpg|thumb|upright|Zaitsev {{Circa|1960s}}]] -During the Soviet era, clothing was dominated by Zaitsev and [[Valentin Yudashkin]],<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.russiajournal.com/node/6186 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090709202511/http://www.russiajournal.com/node/6186 |url-status=dead |archive-date= 9 July 2009 |title=Local designers: Too sexy for the public? |last=Sandul |first=Irina |date=5 May 2002 |work=[[Russia Journal]] |access-date=14 March 2009 }}</ref> and he was compared to other world-renowned fashion designers such as [[Christian Lacroix]],<ref>{{cite book|last=Aldersey-Williams|first=Hugh|title=World Design: Nationalism and Globalism in Design|publisher=Rizzoli|year=1992|page=110|isbn=0-8478-1461-0}}</ref> [[Christian Dior]],<ref name="binyon" /> [[Pierre Cardin]]<ref name="binyon">{{cite book|last=Binyon|first=Michael|title=Life in Russia|publisher=H. Hamilton|year=1983|page=165|isbn=0-241-10982-5}}</ref> and [[Yves Saint Laurent (designer)|Yves Saint Laurent]],<ref name="sovietchic" /> Zaitsev was seen as being able to compete with Western designers;<ref>{{cite book|last=Schultze|first=Sydney|title=Culture and customs of Russia|publisher=Greenwood Publishing Group|location=[[Westport, Connecticut]]|year=2000|page=74|chapter=Cuisine and Fashion|isbn=0-313-31101-3|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=c4kvrPEweOcC|access-date=30 March 2009}}</ref> however, under the [[communist]] regime, the only country outside of the [[USSR]] where Zaitsev was able to work was [[Czechoslovakia]].<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.radio.cz/fr/article/39738|title=Le roi de la mode russe, Slava Zaitsev, présente ses modèles à Prague |last=Segertová|first=Magdalena|date=15 April 2003|publisher=[[Radio Praha]]|access-date=14 March 2009|language=fr}}</ref> Alexandre Vassiliev, a Russian-born, Paris-based fashion historian and designer, stated that "[i]f he had had a chance to show his collections abroad he would have been most possibly a world-famed brand."<ref name="comrade" /> In the early 2000s, not yet having graduated from the Academy of Manuscripts, she was already famous and had many exhibitions in different cities of Armenia, Georgia and Iran. On the path of creativity, the talented artist had many more exhibitions in Berlin, St. Petersburg, Paris, Rome, Milan and Palermo more than once. -In March 1962, he began work as the artistic director of experimental technical garment factory Mosoblsovnarkhoza, where he oversaw production of women's clothing for retail stores in Moscow and the surrounding region. Zaitsev came to attention in 1963 when he designed a [[chic (style)|chic]] version of the [[telogreika]], [[Pavlovsky Posad]] [[shawl]]-inspired skirts and multi-coloured [[valenki]] for [[kolkhoz]] workers. Whilst his creations were lauded by the authorities for "sparkling with all colours of the rainbow", his collection was not approved for production by the Methodical Council. In February 1963, ''[[Paris Match]]'' became the first foreign media outlet to profile Zaitsev, and rated his collection highly.<ref name="comrade" /><ref name="tsogu" /><ref name="styleeyes" /><ref name="haaretz">{{cite news|url=http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/770930.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080104231710/http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/770930.html |url-status=dead |archive-date= 4 January 2008 |title=Versace on the Volga |last=Kanievsky |first=Natalie |date=11 October 2006 |publisher=[[Haaretz]] |access-date=31 March 2009 }}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.tribuneindia.com/2008/20081111/delhi.htm#14|title=Russian designer showcases creations|date=11 November 2008|location=[[New Delhi]]|work=[[The Tribune (Chandigarh)|The Tribune]]|access-date=1 April 2009}}</ref> The artist became very famous for her unique masterpiece Broken Dream. -In March 1965, Zaitsev became the chief designer at the All-Union Fashion House (''Dom modeley'') on [[Kuznetsky Most]].<ref name="whoswho" /> In April 1965 Pierre Cardin, [[Marc Bohan]] (then with Dior), and [[Guy Laroche]] visited Moscow and became familiar with Zaitsev's works, although Zaitsev was not present, and was covered in an article of ''Paris Match''. Pierre Cardin called Zaitsev an "equal among equals", and the [[Media in France|French press]] dubbed him the "Red Dior".<ref name="tsogu" /><ref name="haaretz" /> Between 1965 and 1968, Zaitsev's works, known as "the Russian series", were displayed abroad.<ref name="tsogu" /> - -Zaitsev resigned from the All-Union Fashion House in 1978, and began to work out of a small studio.<ref name="whoswho" /> His mother, with whom he had a great affinity, died in the same year, and after her death he took up -writing [[poetry]].<ref name="moles" /><ref name="tsogu" /> Zaitsev designed a collection of costumes for the [[Soviet Union at the 1980 Summer Olympics|Soviet team]] for the [[1980 Summer Olympics]] which were held in Moscow, for which he was awarded the [[Order of the Badge of Honor]].<ref name="tsogu" /><ref name="fashionweek">{{cite news|url=http://www.fashionweekinmoscow.com/designers/designers_detail.php?ID=1425 |title=Slava Zaitsev |publisher=Fashion Week in Moscow |access-date=14 March 2009 |url-status=dead |archive-url=http://arquivo.pt/wayback/20091015000108/http://www.fashionweekinmoscow.com/designers/designers_detail.php?ID=1425 |archive-date=15 October 2009 }}</ref><ref name="ladymail">{{cite news|url=http://lady.mail.ru/article/52007|title=Коллекция Pret-a-Porter De Luxe|date=23 October 2008|[email protected]|access-date=3 April 2009|language=ru}}</ref> He authored two books in 1980, ''Such Changeable Fashion'' ({{lang-ru|Такая изменчивая мода}}) and ''This Multifaceted World of Fashion'' ({{lang-ru|Этот многоликий мир моды}}), which were republished in Bulgaria and Czechoslovakia in 1983.<ref name="tsogu" /><ref name="fashionweek" /> - -In 1982 he transformed his studio into the "Slava Zaitsev Moscow Fashion House" ({{lang-ru|«Московский Дом Моды Вячеслава Зайцева»}}), also known as Dom Mody, becoming the first Soviet [[couturier]] who was permitted by the [[Government of the Soviet Union|Soviet government]] to label his own clothing.<ref name="sovietchic" /> By the mid-1980s, Dom Mody employed 600 [[civil servant]]s and was required to produce some 2 million [[Soviet rouble|roubles]]' worth of clothing each year.<ref name="whoswho" /><ref name="sovietchic" /><ref name="lemonde310188" /> In 1984 it was reported that Dom Mody had served 10,000 customers, and prices ranged from US$170 to US$260 for [[prêt-à-porter]] dresses, and up to US$1,000 for haute couture gowns.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=JegNAAAAIBAJ&pg=6943,270057|title=Moscow unveils its spring fashions|last=Rosenthal|first=Andrew|date=3 April 1984|work=[[Pittsburgh Post-Gazette]]|page=12|access-date=3 April 2009}}</ref> Zaitsev met with [[Thierry Mugler]] in 1985 in Moscow, and the French couturier photographed Zaitsev's fashions for an article in ''Paris Match''.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/latimes/access/60072383.html?dids=60072383:60072383&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&type=current&date=Jul 20, 1990&author=CLAUDE DELOFFRE&pub=Los Angeles Times (pre-1997 Fulltext)&desc=Paris Designer Thierry Mugler Wows Moscow Fashion: If his collection of patent-leather hot pants and micro-miniskirts didn't leave the Soviets breathless, his runway models, sets and music did.&pqatl=google|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090710053901/http://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/latimes/access/60072383.html?dids=60072383:60072383&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&type=current&date=Jul 20, 1990&author=CLAUDE DELOFFRE&pub=Los Angeles Times (pre-1997 Fulltext)&desc=Paris Designer Thierry Mugler Wows Moscow Fashion: If his collection of patent-leather hot pants and micro-miniskirts didn't leave the Soviets breathless, his runway models, sets and music did.&pqatl=google|url-status=dead|archive-date=10 July 2009|title=Paris Designer Thierry Mugler Wows Moscow Fashion: If his collection of patent-leather hot pants and micro-miniskirts didn't leave the Soviets breathless, his runway models, sets and music did.|last=Deloffre|first=Claude|date=20 July 1990|location=[[Los Angeles]]|work=[[Los Angeles Times]]|access-date=7 April 2009}}</ref> - -[[File:Slava Zaitsev-1.jpg|thumb|upright|Zaitsev in the 1980s]] -[[Raisa Gorbachyova]] wore Zaitsev creations when she made what ''[[The New York Times]]'' described as a "[[perestroika]] splash" in the 1980s.<ref name="comrade" /> Due to the [[patronage]] of the [[Soviet First Lady]], he gained a reputation as one of the world's hottest fashion designers, and became an international celebrity and a [[Celebrity|household name]] in Russia.<ref name="styleeyes">{{cite news|url=http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2004/04/02/1080544682508.html?from=storyrhs|title=Style-eyes|date=2 April 2004|work=[[The Age]]|access-date=13 March 2009}}</ref><ref name="cnnmoney">{{cite news|url=https://money.cnn.com/magazines/fortune/fortune_archive/1991/12/02/75809/index.htm|title=Who to call in the Soviet Union now|last=Hofheinz|first=Paul|author2=Levine, Joanne |date=2 December 1991|publisher=[[Fortune Magazine]]|access-date=14 March 2009}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/europe/raisa-gorbachev-740220.html|title=Raisa Gorbachev|last=Cornwell|first=Rupert|date=21 September 1999|work=[[The Independent]]|access-date=16 March 2009}}</ref> Zaitsev fashions were displayed at [[Expo '85]] in [[Tsukuba, Ibaraki|Tsukuba]], Japan, although it was not until 1986 that he was able to visit a [[capitalist]] country when he displayed some of his works in the Soviet pavilion at [[Expo 86]] in [[Vancouver, British Columbia]], Canada.<ref name="tsogu" /><ref>{{cite news|url=https://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/latimes/access/66383402.html?dids=66383402:66383402&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&date=Jan 09, 1989&author=DIANNE RINEHART&pub=Los Angeles Times (pre-1997 Fulltext)&desc=The Mode in Moscow For Soviets, Pursuit of Fashion Is Now Acceptable but Goods Still Hard to Get&pqatl=google|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090709194043/http://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/latimes/access/66383402.html?dids=66383402:66383402&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&date=Jan 09, 1989&author=DIANNE RINEHART&pub=Los Angeles Times (pre-1997 Fulltext)&desc=The Mode in Moscow For Soviets, Pursuit of Fashion Is Now Acceptable but Goods Still Hard to Get&pqatl=google|url-status=dead|archive-date=9 July 2009|title=The Mode in Moscow For Soviets, Pursuit of Fashion Is Now Acceptable but Goods Still Hard to Get|last=Rinehart|first=Dianne|date=9 January 1989|location=[[Los Angeles]]|work=[[Los Angeles Times]]|access-date=30 March 2009}}</ref> - -A member of the [[Communist Party of the Soviet Union]], Zaitsev affirmed his belief in the Soviet Union and the future of communism, including the [[communist Manifesto|communist ideals]] of a workers' paradise. ''The New York Times'' reported that by the 1980s, he became disillusioned with the Party. Zaitsev told the newspaper that at mandatory party meetings he "began to defend the right to be free, as it says in the Communist charter. They constantly tried to distract me, not to let me get in. I'd be stuck in the elevator or I'd be sent off to some other event." This disillusionment led to Zaitsev quitting the party in the late 1980s.<ref name="comrade" /> - -Zaitsev often complained to the Soviet authorities about the lack of essential materials for his craft, and ''The New York Times'' noted in 1988 that he "until recently" had been forced to use dressmaker's [[mannequin]]s from [[World War II]]. Zaitsev signed a three-year contract with Intertorg Inc. in August 1987, which saw Dom Mody selling its designs in the United States, with profits going to the design house rather than the Soviet Treasury.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/latimes/access/58461356.html?dids=58461356:58461356&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&date=Aug 12, 1987&author=&pub=Los Angeles Times (pre-1997 Fulltext)&desc=Raisa Gorbachev's Stylist to Supply Designs to U.S.&pqatl=google|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090709194038/http://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/latimes/access/58461356.html?dids=58461356:58461356&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&date=Aug 12, 1987&author=&pub=Los Angeles Times (pre-1997 Fulltext)&desc=Raisa Gorbachev's Stylist to Supply Designs to U.S.&pqatl=google|url-status=dead|archive-date=9 July 2009|title=Raisa Gorbachev's Stylist to Supply Designs to U.S.|date=12 August 1987|work=[[Los Angeles Times]]|access-date=7 April 2009}}</ref> The contract was the first commercial consumer venture signed between the two countries.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/washingtonpost/access/73849211.html?dids=73849211:73849211&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&type=current&date=Oct 07, 1987&author=Nancy L. Ross&pub=The Washington Post (pre-1997 Fulltext)&desc=Bringing Soviet Designs To the American Market;Firm Makes Deal for Russian Fashions&pqatl=google|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090709194059/http://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/washingtonpost/access/73849211.html?dids=73849211:73849211&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&type=current&date=Oct 07, 1987&author=Nancy L. Ross&pub=The Washington Post (pre-1997 Fulltext)&desc=Bringing Soviet Designs To the American Market;Firm Makes Deal for Russian Fashions&pqatl=google|url-status=dead|archive-date=9 July 2009|title=Bringing Soviet Designs To the American Market;Firm Makes Deal for Russian Fashions|last=Ross|first=Nancy L.|date=7 October 1987|location=[[Washington, D.C.]]|newspaper=Washington Post|access-date=7 April 2009}}</ref> In October 1987 he showed his collection at the iconic [[Waldorf-Astoria]] in New York City, which critics called overwrought, out-of-date and reminiscent of Western fashion from several seasons earlier. Undiscouraged, Zaitsev said that he planned to return with a "pared-down, sexier collection".<ref name="sovietchic">{{cite news|url=https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=940DE1D71438F932A05754C0A96E948260&sec=&spon=&pagewanted=all|title=Soviet Chic|last=La Ferla|first=Ruth|date=31 July 1988|work=New York Times|access-date=13 March 2009}}</ref> He returned to New York City in 1988 where he designed costumes for the [[musical theatre|musical]] [[revue]] ''[[Sophisticated Ladies]]'', based on the music of [[Duke Ellington]].<ref name="tsogu" /> Participation in his first [[Paris]] [[fashion show]]s came in January 1988 at the invitation of [[Marie-Louise Carven|Madame Carven]], whom Zaitsev met in Moscow in December 1987, showing his collection under the banner of "Russian Seasons". He also joined the ''Maison de Couture'' and was made an [[honorary citizen]] of Paris, by then [[Mayor of Paris|mayor]] [[Jacques Chirac]].<ref name="tsogu" /><ref name="whoswho" /><ref name="styleeyes" /><ref name="lemonde310188">{{cite news|url=http://www.lemonde.fr/cgi-bin/ACHATS/863722.html|title=Entretien avec le styliste Slava Zaitsev L'élégance des Soviétiques|last=Bouhana|first=Brigitte|author2=Ajchenbaum, Yves Marc |date=31 January 1988|work=[[Le Monde]]|access-date=3 April 2009|language=fr}}</ref><ref name="popculture">{{cite book|last=Beumers|first=Birgit|title=Pop culture Russia!|publisher=ABC-CLIO|pages=356–358|chapter=Fashion|isbn=1-85109-459-8|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Hix8AyteLN8C|access-date=1 April 2009|year=2005}}</ref> The following year in March, Maison de Couture named Zaitsev as "Man of the Year in the World of Fashion"<ref name="tsogu" /><ref name="styleeyes" /><ref name="fashionbank">{{cite web|url=http://www.fashionbank.ru/articles/article166.html|title=Вячеслав Зайцев (Vyacheslav Zaitsev)|publisher=Fashion Bank|access-date=4 April 2009|language=ru}}</ref> - -In September 1989, Zaitsev showed his collections in [[West Germany]] for the first time under the theme "Fashion and Music Revue '90",<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.abendblatt.de/extra/service/944949.html?url=/ha/1989/xml/19890914xml/habxml890709_11659.xml|title=Aus der Farbennot eine Tugend gemacht|date=14 September 1989|work=[[Hamburger Abendblatt]]|page=5|access-date=3 April 2009|language=de}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.abendblatt.de/extra/service/944949.html?url=/ha/1989/xml/19890913xml/habxml890709_11468.xml|title=Der "rote Dior" zieht nicht nur Raissa an|date=13 September 1989|work=[[Hamburger Abendblatt]]|page=4|access-date=3 April 2009|language=de}}</ref> and in December 1989 he won first prize at "Five Top Fashion Designers in the World–90" in [[Tokyo]], Japan, where he was competing against [[Donna Karan]], [[Claude Montana]], [[Hanae Mori]] and [[Byblos]].<ref name="tsogu" /><ref>{{cite news|url=http://russlandonline.ru/mos0010/morenews.php?iditem=216|title=Ausstellung des russischen Modedesigners Wjatscheslaw Saizew begann in Moskau|date=11 November 2004|publisher=Russland.ru|access-date=4 April 2009|language=de}}</ref> - -=== Career in post-Soviet Russia === -Whilst during the Soviet era Zaitsev's work was funded by the Soviet government, which as a state employee he earned the maximum of 1,000 roubles per month, after the [[dissolution of the Soviet Union|collapse of the Soviet Union]] he became responsible for financing the business out of his private income, with [[New Russians]] making up the bulk of his clientele.<ref name="cnnmoney" /><ref name="chronicle" /> In 1991 he designed a new uniform for the [[Ministry of Internal Affairs (Russia)|Russian police]], and was bestowed the title of ''Honored Worker in the Field of the Arts''.<ref name="fashionweek" /> By 1992, [[Jane Fonda]], [[Ted Turner]] and [[Herb Ritts]] were amongst the celebrities who became customers of Zaitsev,<ref name="chronicle">{{cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1992/09/14/style/chronicle-136092.html|title=Chronicle|last=Brozan|first=Nadine|date=14 September 1992|work=New York Times|access-date=30 March 2009}}</ref> and in the same year Zaitsev launched a women's [[perfume]] named ''Maroussia'', in conjunction with [[France|French-based]] [[L'Oréal]].<ref>{{cite news|title=L'Oreal's perfume perestroika|date=25 February 1992|publisher=Cosmetics International}}</ref> The perfume which is classified as a "floral oriental" and is still in production, was launched in a few European countries in 1992 and was launched worldwide in 1993.<ref>{{cite news|title=L'Oréal has launched its first Russian couturier's perfume -|date=27 January 1992|publisher=ICB}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last=Edwards|first=Michael|title=Fragrances of the World 2008|publisher=Fragrances of the World|location=[[Sydney]], Australia|year=2007|page=65|isbn=978-0-9756097-3-6}}</ref> - -1992 was also a significant year in Zaitsev's career, because it was then that he presented for the first time his recent fashion collection, as well as his paintings and works on paper in prestigious venues, both in New York and in Beverly Hills. Never before was Russian fashion design demonstrated on the American runways, and never before were Zaitsev's most personal paintings and drawings allowed to be exhibited in the West. Fashion shows and exhibitions were held at the [[Serge Sorokko|Bowles-Sorokko Galleries]] on both the East and the West Coasts, and they were widely attended, marking the beginning of cultural exchanges in the area of visual arts between the USA and the new Russia. According to Serge Sorokko, then president of the Bowles-Sorokko Galleries, Zaitsev was a lifelong painter, but was never free to exhibit publicly his art before. "[That was] because his work was outside the dogmas of socialist realism", Sorokko told ''The New York Times''. "He was permitted to paint only for his own soul. When I visited his home in Moscow, I saw 20 years of pictorial work on his walls."<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1992/09/14/style/chronicle-136092.html|title=Chronicle |date=14 September 1992 |work=[[The New York Times]] |access-date=27 November 2010 | location=New York | first=Nadine | last=Brozan}}</ref> - -In 1994, Zaitsev hosted the inaugural [[Nadezhda Lamanova]] Prize competition for professional Russian designers at Dom Mody, and the competition has been held under his patronage since.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.myjane.ru/news/text/?id=3151&printer=ok|title=Слава Зайцев: "Мир искусства". Конкурс художников&nbsp;— модельеров им. Надежды Ламановой пройдет в новом формате|date=16 May 2006|publisher=Myjane.ru|access-date=4 April 2009|language=ru}}</ref> In 1996 he launched a competition in Russia, using the slogan of "Goodbye [[Barbie]], welcome Maroussia", to find the "purest essence of" female adolescence, with the aim of decreasing the influence of the American doll in Russia. In Zaitsev's words, "Barbie is rigid, cold, cynical, pragmatic. Now look at the faces of our children ... they are not only beautiful, but sweet, charming and mysterious. In every face there's a secret, and so must the new Russian doll".<ref>{{cite news|url=http://ricerca.repubblica.it/repubblica/archivio/repubblica/1996/05/12/russia-faccia-da-bambola-cercasi.html|title=Russia, faccia da bambola cercasi|date=12 May 1996|publisher=[[la Repubblica]]|access-date=14 March 2009|language=it}}</ref> Also in 1996, a follow-up to 1992s ''Maroussia'', a floriental fragrance named ''Authentic Maroussia'' was launched but has since been discontinued.<ref>{{cite book|last=Edwards|first=Michael|title=Fragrances of the World 2008|publisher=Fragrances of the World|location=[[Sydney]], Australia|year=2007|page=68|isbn=978-0-9756097-3-6}}</ref> - -Zaitsev was the tailor to [[Vladimir Zhirinovsky]] for his [[1996 Russian presidential election|1996 Russian presidential campaign]]. Zaitsev, who planned to vote for [[Boris Yeltsin]], stated on Zhirinovsky, "He wanted something distinctly Russian, so I thought back to the military-style jackets of the 20s, the 30s{{mdash}}like Stalin, only in new colours".<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.elmundo.es/papel/hemeroteca/1996/06/30/mundo/123386.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090709194919/http://www.elmundo.es/papel/hemeroteca/1996/06/30/mundo/123386.html |url-status=dead |archive-date= 9 July 2009 |title=Lebed, un "sex symbol" de hormigón |last=Reyes Guitian |first=Belen |date=30 June 1995 |work=[[El Mundo (Spain)|El Mundo]] |access-date=14 March 2009 |language=es }}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB835822427570088000?mod=googlewsj|title=Russian Politicians Turn To Image-Makers for Style|last=Banerjee|first=Neela|date=27 June 1996|work=The Wall Street Journal|access-date=1 April 2009}}</ref> On 27 May 1996, [[President of Russia]] Boris Yeltsin awarded Zaitsev the [[State Prize of the Russian Federation]] in the field of literature and the arts.<ref>{{In lang|ru|cap=yes}} {{Cite Russian law|ru_entity=Президент Российской Федерации|ru_type=[[Ukaz|УКАЗ]]|ru_number=779|ru_date=27 May 1996|ru_title=О присуждении Государственных премий Российской Федерации в области литературы и искусства 1995 года|ru_url=http://document.kremlin.ru/doc.asp?ID=076959|en_entity=[[President of Russia]]|en_type=[[Ukaz]]|en_number=779|en_date=27 May 1996|en_title=On the awarding of the State Prize of the Russian Federation in the field of literature and the arts for 1995|en_url=http://document.kremlin.ru/doc.asp?ID=076959}}</ref> In 1996, Zaitsev was also made an honorary citizen of the city of his birth, Ivanovo.<ref name="tsogu" /> - -His 2001 collection entitled ''Dedication'' saw the most expensive dresses costing $10,000–12,000, whilst the cheapest were in the $2,000–3,000 price range.<ref name="russj190101">{{cite news|url=http://www.russiajournal.com/node/10038 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090709202716/http://www.russiajournal.com/node/10038 |url-status=dead |archive-date= 9 July 2009 |title=Dedication to an ideal |date=19 January 2001 |publisher=[[Russia Journal]] |access-date=4 April 2009 }}</ref> - -When President of Russia [[Vladimir Putin]] was due to travel on a [[state visit]] to the United Kingdom in June 2003, Zaitsev designed attire for First Lady of Russia [[Lyudmila Putina]] to wear for the visit, which included an audience with [[Queen Elizabeth II]]. Zaitsev told [[Zhizn]] that it took some time to convince Putina to wear a hat, due to Russian women in general not wearing them.<ref name="rjputina">{{cite news|url=http://www.russiajournal.com/node/15672 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090709202739/http://www.russiajournal.com/node/15672 |url-status=dead |archive-date= 9 July 2009 |title=Putina's Threads Stir Up Britain |last=Kondorsky |first=Alexander |date=4 July 2003 |work=[[Russia Journal]] |access-date=13 March 2009 }}</ref> - -By February 2005, Zaitsev had opened four Slava Zaytsev Men's Wear stores in [[Ryazan]], [[Ufa]], [[Orenburg]], and [[Samara, Russia|Samara]].<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.rzn.info/news/city/598/|title="Slava Zaitsev. Men's Wear": знаменитый российский кутюрье открыл в Рязани фирменный салон-магазин мужской одежды |date=14 February 2005|location=[[Ryazan]]|publisher=RZN.info|access-date=3 April 2009|language=ru}}</ref> ''The New York Times'' described Zaitsev in 2004 as one of the few Soviet icons who is still an icon in modern-day Russia, and [[Time (magazine)|''Time'' magazine]] reported in 2007 that the Zaitsev name has 93% [[brand awareness]] in Russia.<ref name="comrade" /><ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1664380,00.html|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071114005325/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1664380,00.html|url-status=dead|archive-date=14 November 2007|title=Russia|date=21 September 2007|publisher=[[Time Magazine]]|access-date=31 March 2009}}</ref> In 2007 ''[[Kommersant]]'' commissioned [[VCIOM]] to run a poll on public perception as to the make-up of the Russian elite; Zaitsev, who is often referred to as the [[Patriarch]] of Russian fashion, was rated at 74.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.kommersant.com/p-9822/Kommersant_Elite_Rating/|title=Three Dimensions of Russian Elite|date=12 January 2007|publisher=[[Kommersant]]|access-date=1 April 2009|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090709200755/http://www.kommersant.com/p-9822/Kommersant_Elite_Rating/|archive-date=9 July 2009|url-status=dead}}</ref> -[[File:Svetlana Medvedeva and Slava Zaitsev.jpg|thumb|Zaitsev and [[Svetlana Medvedeva]] at the exhibition The Russian Evening-2008 in Milan, Italy in September 2008]] -Zaitsev was not interested in achieving worldwide renown by showing his creations abroad, preferring to stay true to his Russian roots and encouraged other Russian designers not to be influenced by the West.<ref name="wwd08" /> Zaitsev was quoted by ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]'' in April 2008 as saying: - -{{blockquote|I think that as a Russian artist, I should show in Russia. At the beginning of the 1990s, I had the chance to show in Paris, and I realised that it's not my place.<ref name="wwd08">{{cite news|url=http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/russian-fashion-weeks-hobbled-by-overlap-458384?full=true|title=Russian Fashion Weeks Hobbled by Overlap|last=Gee|first=Alastair|date=9 April 2008 |work=[[Women's Wear Daily]]|access-date=2009-04-01}}</ref>}} - -In 2007 Zaitsev took part in the TV show "Fashion Verdict" ({{lang-ru|Модный приговор}}) on [[Channel One (Russia)|Channel One]], in which he acted as a judge passing down verdict on contestants' fashion sense.<ref>{{cite news|title=In the spotlight|last=Malpas|first=Anna|date=10 August 2007|publisher=[[The St. Petersburg Times (Russia)|The St. Petersburg Times]]}}</ref> After visiting [[Ashgabat]] in June 2008 for the Turkmen Textile Exhibition, Zaitsev stated that he was fascinated by traditional [[Turkmen people|Turkmen]] clothing, and announced plans for a new collection which would incorporate traditional Turkmen elements. The casual wear collection is to be made exclusively from cotton from [[Turkmenistan]] and would feature the traditional Turkmen [[embroidery]] which captured his imagination.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.rferl.org/content/article/1347825.html|title=Turkmenistan: Moscow Designer Eyes Turkmen Fashion, As Locals Vie With Strict Dress Code|last=Najibullah|first=Farangis|date=18 June 2008|publisher=[[RFE/RL]]|access-date=1 April 2009}}</ref> In September 2008, Zaitsev participated in The Russian Evening-2008 at the [[Institute for International Political Studies]] in [[Milan]], which was attended by Svetlana Medvedeva and [[Clio Maria Bittoni]], the wife of [[Italian President]] [[Giorgio Napolitano]].<ref>{{cite news|title=An evening of Russian culture held in Milan|date=28 September 2008|work=Philippine News Agency|location=[[Milan]]}}</ref> - -Zaitsev had always been an admirer of the costumes sketches supplied by [[Pablo Picasso]] and [[Albert Benois]], amongst others, for [[Sergei Diaghilev]]'s Paris troupe, and to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Diaghilev's [[Ballets Russes]], Zaitsev's collection for the 2009 Russian Fashion Week paid homage to the Russian [[ballet]] [[impresario]].<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.mnweekly.ru/culture/20090326/55371736.html |title=Russian Fashion Week |date=26 March 2009 |publisher=[[Moscow News]] |access-date=1 April 2009 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090403195905/http://www.mnweekly.ru/culture/20090326/55371736.html |archive-date=3 April 2009 }}</ref> -<!-- -Since June 2016, the [[Hermitage Museum]] in [[Saint Petersburg]] has honored Zaitsev with an extensive exhibition of his work. The exhibition is a big step toward creating a costume museum at the world-famous museum. The exposition displays many of the creations of the Slava Zaitsev Fashion House in Moscow over the past 30 years, along with clothing design sketches and the maestro's photos.{{Cn|date=May 2023}}--> - -==Death== -Zaitsev died on 30 April 2023, at the age of 85 of [[gastrointestinal bleeding]] in a [[Shchyolkovo]] city hospital.<ref name="iz">{{Cite web |title=Стала известна причина смерти Вячеслава Зайцева |url=https://iz.ru/1506436/2023-04-30/stala-izvestna-prichina-smerti-viacheslava-zaitceva|language=Russian|access-date=30 April 2023 |website=[[Izvestia]]|date=30 April 2023 }}</ref> He previously suffered from [[Parkinson's disease]], being partially paralyzed, with impaired ability to talk and walk.<ref name="iz"/> - -== Fashion style == -[[File:Slava Zaitsev fashion show-1.jpg|thumb|Fashion show of Slava Zaitsev featuring creations inspired by traditional [[Pavlovo Posad shawl]]s]] -Zaitsev stated that his mother, Maria Ivanovna, was a cleaning lady and never owned a smart dress. In 2004, ''The New York Times'' stated, "[i]t is her stolid image that he has been dressing all these years in [[flounces]] and feathers, [[pouf]]s and [[peplos|peplums]], gold and glitter."<ref name="comrade" /> During the Soviet era, he frequently complained that he designed collections for the "larger" woman in the 1970s, but only models up to size 48 were accepted for production.<ref>{{cite book|last=Goscilo|first=Helena|author2=Holmgren, Beth |others=Vainshtein, Olga|title=Russia&nbsp;— Women&nbsp;— Culture|publisher=Indiana University Press|year=1996|pages=82–83|chapter=Female Fashion, Soviet Style: Bodies of Ideology|isbn=0-253-21044-5|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=s-g2_mK1oicC|access-date=30 March 2008}}</ref> - -Whilst Zaitsev regarded fashion designers [[Coco Chanel]], Christian Dior, [[Gianfranco Ferré]] and [[Hubert de Givenchy]] as idols, his own creations were strongly influenced by traditional Russian and [[Slavic Europe|Slavic]] styles, and his collections included a variety of theme-based shows reflecting his take on the industry at the time. His collections included the "Millennium of the Christianisation of Russia" in 1988; "Russian Seasons" in Paris in 1988; "Agony of Perestroika" in 1991; and "Recollections of the Future" in 1996–1997.<ref name="popculture" /><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.vor.ru/culture/cultarch35_eng.html |title=Russian culture navigator |publisher=[[Voice of Russia]] |access-date=16 March 2009 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070823001026/http://www.vor.ru/culture/cultarch35_eng.html |archive-date=23 August 2007 }}</ref> In his creations, Zaitsev included elements such as traditional [[Pavlovo Posad shawl]]s and embroidered quilted jackets, which were featured in collections such as "Expectation of Changes".<ref>{{cite news|url=http://rbth.ru/articles/2008/03/20/fashion.html|title=Fashion: more show, more business|last=Smetanina|first=Svetlana|date=20 March 2008|publisher=Russia Behind The Headlines|access-date=4 April 2009}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.mnweekly.ru/culture/20070921/55278123.html |title=Rebirth of Pavlovoposad Shawls |last=Smetanina |first=Svetlana |date=21 September 2007 |work=[[Moscow News]] |access-date=4 April 2009 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080415014440/http://www.mnweekly.ru/culture/20070921/55278123.html |archive-date=15 April 2008 }}</ref> -{{Clear}} - -== References == -{{reflist}} - -== External links == -{{Commons category}} -* [https://slavazaitsev.com/en Official website] (English version) - -{{Authority control}} - -{{DEFAULTSORT:Zaitsev, Vyacheslav Mikhailovich}} -[[Category:1938 births]] -[[Category:2023 deaths]] -[[Category:20th-century Russian male artists]] -[[Category:20th-century Russian painters]] -[[Category:21st-century Russian male artists]] -[[Category:21st-century Russian painters]] -[[Category:Corresponding Members of the Russian Academy of Arts]] -[[Category:Full Members of the Russian Academy of Arts]] -[[Category:Moscow State Textile University alumni]] -[[Category:People from Ivanovo]] -[[Category:People's Artists of Russia (visual arts)]] -[[Category:Recipients of the Order "For Merit to the Fatherland", 4th class]] -[[Category:Resigned Communist Party of the Soviet Union members]] -[[Category:Russian costume designers]] -[[Category:Russian fashion designers]] -[[Category:Russian graphic designers]] -[[Category:Russian male painters]] -[[Category:Russian television presenters]] -[[Category:State Prize of the Russian Federation laureates]] Currently, the artist continues her creativity and her life in Armenia. '