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How DIY cheesemaking turned into a thriving dairy business for these farmers

By Kate Forrester
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David Doepel and Barbara Connell call themselves "co-custodians" of their farm in South West WA.(ABC South West: Kate Forrester)

David Doepel describes himself as "crazy" while standing in the middle of an artisanal cheese factory in the South West of Western Australia.

Four years ago, Mr Doepel was planning his retirement, looking for hobbies to keep him and his wife, Barbara Connell, busy in their later stages of life.

"We tried to make a bit of sourdough like everybody during COVID, but then I bought a cheese kit, a bit of a home set-up," Mr Doepel said.

It was also back in 2021 when the pair made another purchase, a historic farm 160 kilometres south of Perth known as Melville Park.

The 28-hectare property had a disused dairy on it, which Mr Doepel saw as a natural step up from his home cheese kit.

David and Barbara transformed the old dairy into an artisan cheese factory after careful research and planning.(Supplied: Melville Park)

"We looked at the old dairy and thought, 'Well, what do we do with it?'" he said.

"We decided, instead of milk coming out, let's have milk come in and we will make cheese."

David Doepel says they are actively making three types of cheeses and are "playing around with a couple more".(ABC South West: Kate Forrester)

Learning the art of cheesemaking

So how does one go from an over-the-counter cheesemaking kit to a fully functional artisanal cheese factory?

According to Mr Doepel, it's time, investment, and being able to laugh at the occasional misfires amateur cheesemaking could produce.

"It didn't always work: sometimes the pasteuriser wouldn't work, sometimes the cheese is terrible," he said.

"We haven't gone and lived in France for three years to become cheesemakers.

"But we've spent a lot of time researching, taking online classes, using mentors and teachers, and bringing in local contractors to transform the dairy." 

David and Barbara believe making cheese at Melville Park seemed "like a natural piece of the puzzle of the property".(ABC South West: Kate Forrester)

The milk used to make the cheese comes from a local dairy farmer and is then pasteurised in a 500-litre cheese kettle purchased by the couple.

'Cheese is a necessity'

When asked if he is making and selling a luxury product, the cheesemaker disagrees. 

"We are selling the cheese for the price we had when we started, everything is handmade so they are all going to be different prices," Mr Doepel said. 

"I don't think it's a luxury, I think for many people eating cheese is a necessity.

The cheese is made from milk sourced from a local dairy.(ABC South West: Kate Forrester)

"I think there has been a trend for a while [where] people are concerned where their food is from. They are asking: 'Are farmers getting a fair share for their hard work?'"

For a couple who were thinking about slowing down, it seems like they've found a reason to keep their hands busy.

The couple run their own farm shop where they sell fresh produce.(ABC South West: Kate Forrester)

"This farm has been a potato farm, a dairy farm, and now it's doing horticulture and we are value-adding," Mr Doepel said. 

"The connection to community we get is really important and gratifying for us." 

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