Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto (born February 9, 1987 – c. February 5, 2021) was a Chilean architect, rock climber and mountaineer. He held a Guinness World Record for making the first enchainment of Lhotse and Mount Everest without oxygen in 2019.
Juan Pablo "JP" Mohr Prieto | |
|---|---|
| Born | 9 February 1987 Santiago, Chile |
| Disappeared | 5 February 2021 K2, Pakistan |
| Died | c. 5 February 2021 (aged 33) (officially presumed dead at K2 Bottleneck on 18 February 2021) |
| Body discovered | July 2021 |
| Resting place | K2 |
| Nationality | Chilean |
| Education | Colegio San Benito |
| Alma mater | Diego Portales University |
| Occupation(s) | Architect and Mountaineer |
| Known for | First to summit Lhotse and Everest without returning to base camp in less than a week |
| Spouse | Juana Fernández (married 2011) |
| Children | 3 |
| Parent(s) | Raúl Mohr and Carmen Prieto |
Biography
editIn 2012, he graduated as an architect from the Diego Portales University and later devoted himself to taking mountaineering and rescue courses. He created the DeporteLibre Foundation, a non-profit organization that creates public sports infrastructure in abandoned spaces.[1] Mohr was behind the development of one of the foundation's facilities, Parque de Escalada Los Silos, a free outdoor climbing gym in Santiago.[2][3] Los Silos is the highest urban climbing park in Latin America.[4]
Mountaineering
editIn 2017, Mohr and Sebastián Rojas summitted Annapurna, becoming the first Chileans to achieve this feat.[5] In 2019, Mohr was registered in the Guinness Records for being the first person to summit Lhotse and Everest without having to return to the Base camp in less than a week, without the help of Sherpas and without oxygen.[6][7] In October of the same year, he made an ascent of Dhaulagiri, also without supplementary oxygen and without the help of Sherpas.[8]
After these ascents, Mohr began to outline a project to climb to the highest summit of each of Chile's sixteen regions and build mountain shelters in all of them, declaring that “as an architect I want to design and build shelters in the highest mountains from each region to expand mountaineering in Chile",[9] also developing mountaineering workshops and training for local communities with the aim of generating a system that allows the local administration of each refuge and generating activities that promote mountain culture, with the support of the Ministry of National Assets, the National Institute of Sports and the National Tourism Service.[10]
Final climb
editIn late 2020, Mohr traveled to K2 with Sergi Mingote in an attempt to make the first successful winter ascent of the mountain. Mohr was on the mountain with Mingote when he fell and died on January 16, 2021.[11] After the death of his partner, Mohr decided to continue his attempt with the Italian mountaineer Tamara Lunger, who later could not continue either.[12] Mohr then followed the route of ascent alongside Pakistani mountaineers Muhammad and Sajid Ali Sadpara and Icelander John Snorri Sigurjónsson. Sajid, Muhammad's 20-year-old son, was forced to return from the so-called 'bottleneck' area of K2 due to a malfunctioning oxygen regulator.[13]
On Friday, February 5, when the trio was preparing to conquer the summit, they lost contact with their GPS devices, presumably frozen by the extreme cold in the area.[14][15] On Saturday the 6th, the three mountaineers were reported missing and the search began with the help of helicopters from the Pakistani army that reached up to 7000 meters, but due to adverse weather conditions they had to suspend the rescue without seeing Mohr and his companions.[16] He was declared dead on February 18, 2021.[17]
Mohr would be one of five climbers to lose their lives on K2 during the 2020–2021 winter season.[18] In July 2021, Mohr's body was found on K2. In accordance with his family's wishes, his body remains on the mountain.[19]
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ "Juan Pablo Mohr : Red de Líderes Jóvenes". www.redlideres.cl. Retrieved 2021-02-08.
- ^ Marty, Sierra; Paulsen, Melissa (2019-11-12). "Urban Climbing in Santiago, Chile". Wasatch Magazine. Retrieved 2024-10-22.
- ^ Clarke, Owen (2024-06-28). "The 13 Coolest Climbing Gyms in the World". Climbing. Retrieved 2024-10-22.
- ^ "Mountaineer JP Mohr's message: "We can all reach our summits"". BBC News. 2022-05-31. Retrieved 2024-10-22.
- ^ "Histórico: Cordada chilena hace cumbre en el Annapurna | Revista Escalando". Retrieved 2021-02-08.
- ^ Mostrador, El (2020-05-25). "Juan Pablo Mohr, el montañista chileno que logró un Récord Guinness en dos de las cumbres más altas del mundo". El Mostrador (in Spanish). Retrieved 2021-02-08.
- ^ Potter, Steven (2022-01-04). "A Climber We Lost: Juan Pablo "JP" Mohr Prieto, February 5". Climbing. Retrieved 2024-10-22.
- ^ "» Juan Pablo Mohr: "Cada 'ocho mil' es más difícil que el anterior"" (in European Spanish). 4 October 2019. Retrieved 2021-02-08.
- ^ S.A.P, El Mercurio (2020-04-23). "El tremendo y noble desafío por el que irá el montañista chileno que hizo historia consiguiendo un Récord Guinness | Emol.com". Emol (in Spanish). Retrieved 2021-02-08.
- ^ "El Volcán Tronador en nuestra región fue la primera cumbre conquistada: Montañista Juan Pablo Mohr pretende subir las 16 cumbres más altas de cada una de las regiones del país". El Heraldo Austral (in Spanish). Retrieved 2021-02-08.
- ^ Nación de Argentina / GDA, La (2023-02-04). "Tragedia en la cumbre: la fatídica expedición en una de las montañas más altas del mundo que terminó con la vida de Juan Pablo Mohr". El Comercio (in Spanish). ISSN 1605-3052. Retrieved 2024-10-22.
- ^ Silva, Juan Pablo. "Tamara Lunger, alpinista italiana y amiga de Juan Pablo Mohr: "De alguna manera yo también me perdí ese día" | DFMAS". dfmas.df.cl (in Spanish). Retrieved 2024-10-22.
- ^ "Missing on K2 Juan Pablo Mohr, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, John Snorri". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2021-02-08.
- ^ "#K2Winter2021: Chilean climber JP Mohar and his team members gone missing during expedition in Pakistan – Chile News | Breaking News, Views, Analysis". Retrieved 2024-10-22.
- ^ "Juan Pablo Mohr se encuentra desaparecido en la montaña K2". AS Chile (in Spanish). 2021-02-06. Retrieved 2021-02-08.
- ^ S.A.P, El Mercurio (2021-02-06). "Se suspende por mal clima la búsqueda del montañista chileno Juan Pablo Mohr y sus compañeros, desaparecidos en el K2 | Emol.com". Emol (in Spanish). Retrieved 2021-02-08.
- ^ Jajja, Sumaira (2021-02-18). "Sadpara, two other mountaineers missing on K2 declared dead". DAWN.COM. Retrieved 2021-06-29.
- ^ Routen, Ash (2021-02-07). "K2: The Fallen Five » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-10-22.
- ^ Morales, Fernando (2022-03-16). "Todas las cumbres de Juan Pablo Mohr". Vergara 240 - Escuela de Periodismo UDP (in Spanish). Retrieved 2024-10-22.