Wikipedia

2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 35th edition of the international competition climbing series organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 12 locations. There are 18 events: six bouldering, six lead, and six speed events. The series begins on 23 April in Hachioji, Japan with the first bouldering competitions of the season, and concluded on 24 September in Wujiang, China.

2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup
OrganiserIFSC
Edition35th
Events
18
  • 6 Boulder
    6 Lead
    6 Speed
Locations
12
Dates21 April – 24 September 2023
Lead
MenJapan Sorato Anraku
WomenAustria Jessica Pilz
TeamJapan Japan
Boulder
MenJapan Sorato Anraku
WomenUnited States Natalia Grossman
TeamJapan Japan
Speed
MenIndonesia Veddriq Leonardo
WomenPoland Natalia Kałucka
TeamIndonesia Indonesia
← 2022
2024 →

The top 3 in each competition receive medals, and the overall winners are awarded trophies. At the end of the season, an overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event.

Scheduling

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The IFSC announced the 2023 World Cup schedule in September 2022.[1]

Overview

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No. Location D G Gold Silver Bronze
1   Hachioji
21–23 April 		B M   Mejdi Schalck 2T3z 7 7   Hannes Van Duysen 1T3z 2 11   Paul Jenft 1T3z 3 3
W   Brooke Raboutou 3T3z 6 6   Hannah Meul 1T3z 1 8   Anon Matsufuji 0T3z 0 7
2   Seoul
28–30 April[Note 1][2] 		B M   Mejdi Schalck 2T3z 2 7   Tomoa Narasaki 2T3z 6 10   Chon Jong-won 2T2z 2 2
W   Miho Nonaka 2T3z 20 22   Oriane Bertone 2T2z 4 3   Brooke Raboutou 2T2z 10 7
S M   Veddriq Leonardo 5.01   Long Jinbao 5.12   Wang Xinshang 5.11
W   Aleksandra Mirosław 6.25   Natalia Kałucka 6.67   Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 6.60
3   Jakarta
6–7 May 		S M   Raharjati Nursamsa 5.11   Wang Xinshang 5.14   Kiromal Katibin 6.34
W   Aleksandra Mirosław 6.43   Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 6.52   Aleksandra Kałucka 6.64
4   Salt Lake City
19–21 May 		B M   Tomoa Narasaki 4T4z 6 5   Sorato Anraku 4T4z 12 6   Toby Roberts 3T4z 8 10
W   Natalia Grossman 4T4z 5 5   Oriane Bertone 2T4z 3 6   Brooke Raboutou 2T3z 4 10
S M   Veddriq Leonardo 4.95   Wu Peng 6.99   Kiromal Katibin 4.98
W   Aleksandra Mirosław 6.43   Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 6.82   Deng Lijuan 6.77
5   Prague
2–4 June 		B M   Lee Dohyun 4T4z 5 5   Adam Ondra 4T4z 13 9   Mejdi Schalck 3T4z 3 6
W   Oriane Bertone 3T4z 4 5   Janja Garnbret 3T4z 6 7   Flavy Cohaut 2T3z 6 12
6   Brixen
9–11 June 		B M   Toby Roberts 3T4z 10 7   Lee Dohyun 2T4z 3 4   Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4z 5 6
W   Natalia Grossman 4T4z 12 12   Seo Chae-hyun 3T4z 3 9   Staša Gejo 3T4z 5 6
7   Innsbruck
14–18 June 		B M   Sorato Anraku 3T3z 11 9   Meichi Narasaki 3T3z 15 11   Sam Avezou 2T2z 4 3
W   Janja Garnbret 4T4z 4 4   Natalia Grossman 2T4z 2 11   Miho Nonaka 2T4z 2 13
L M   Sascha Lehmann 44   Alexander Megos 44   Jakob Schubert 42
W   Janja Garnbret 39   Ai Mori 33   Jessica Pilz 25
8   Villars
30 June–2 July 		L M   Jakob Schubert 42   Adam Ondra 41   Alexander Megos 40
W   Janja Garnbret TOP   Jessica Pilz 43   Brooke Raboutou 43
S M   Long Jianguo 5.26   Zhang Liang FALL   Ryo Omasa 5.30
W   Natalia Kałucka 6.55   Emma Hunt 8.37   Deng Lijuan 6.49
9   Chamonix
7–9 July 		L M   Toby Roberts TOP   Sam Avezou 50   Sorato Anraku 48
W   Jain Kim 43   Nonoha Kume 38   Hélène Janicot 38
S M   Rahmad Adi Mulyono 5.01   Rishat Khaibullin 5.05   Raharjati Nursamsa 5.323
W   Rajiah Sallsabillah 6.97   Victoire Andrier 9.59   Nurul Iqamah 7.16
10   Briançon
14–15 July 		L M   Sorato Anraku TOP   Taisei Homma 49   Satone Yoshida 49
W   Vita Lukan 46   Eliska Adamovska 44   Manon Hily 44
11   Koper
8–9 September 		L M   Sorato Anraku TOP   Jesse Grupper 42   Alberto Ginés López 23
W   Janja Garnbret TOP   Ai Mori 44   Vita Lukan 40
12   Wujiang
22–24 September 		L M   Sorato Anraku 39   Shion Omata 30   Taisei Homma 26
W   Ai Mori 36   Jessica Pilz 31   Natsuki Tanii 26
S M   Wu Peng 5.05   Jingjie Huang 5.10   Ryo Omasa 5.11
W   Deng Lijuan 6.58   Natalia Kałucka 6.69   Di Niu 6.89

[1]

  1. ^ Seoul bouldering results based on semifinal standings after finals were canceled due to rain delay.

Bouldering

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The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[3]

Rank Name Points Hachioji Seoul Salt Lake City Prague Brixen Innsbruck
1   Sorato Anraku 3350 5. 545 (29. 52*) 2. 805 7. 455 5. 545 1. 1000
2   Lee Dohyun 3130 7. 455 4. 610 (39. 15.3*) 1. 1000 2. 805 14. 260
3   Tomoa Narasaki 3000 10. 350 2. 805 1. 1000 10. 350 6. 495 (11. 325)
4   Toby Roberts 2710 (25. 89.5*) 8. 415 3. 690 15. 240 1. 1000 9. 365*
5   Mejdi Schalck 2690 1. 1000 1. 1000 (-) 3. 690 - -
6   Yoshiyuki Ogata 2335 13. 280 12. 300 (16. 220) 4. 610 3. 690 7. 455
7   Chon Jong-won 2275 6. 495 3. 690 14. 260 (16. 220) 16. 220 4. 610
8   Hannes Van Duysen 2140 2. 805 13. 280 6. 495 13. 280 (-) 13. 280
9   Meichi Narasaki 1945 8. 415 (85. 0) 25. 89.5* 35. 25.5* 4. 610 2. 805
10   Yannick Flohé 1750.5 11. 325 7. 455 (-) 5. 545 8. 415 45. 10.5*

Women

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[3]

Rank Name Points Hachioji Seoul Salt Lake City Prague Brixen Innsbruck
1   Natalia Grossman 3527.5 8. 397.5* 11. 325 1. 1000 (-) 1. 1000 2. 805
2   Miho Nonaka 3005 11. 325 1. 1000 9. 380 4. 610 (-) 3. 690
3   Brooke Raboutou 2990 1. 1000 3. 690 3. 690 (-) - 4. 610
4   Oriane Bertone 2649.5 31. 39.5* 2. 805 2. 805 1. 1000 (-) -
5   Ayala Kerem 1995 4. 610 6. 495 (-) 13. 280 4. 610 -
6   Staša Gejo 1893 27. 68* 10. 350 (-) 5. 545 3. 690 15. 240
7   Oceana Mackenzie 1880 (35. 25.5*) 13. 280 12. 300 7. 455 5. 545 12. 300
8   Janja Garnbret 1805 (-) - - 2. 805 - 1. 1000
9   Anastasia Sanders 1765 37. 20* 5. 545 4. 610 (-) 15. 240 10. 350
10   Seo Chae-hyun 1744.5 14. 250 (29. 52*) 25. 89.5* 8. 415 2. 805 18. 185

* = Joint place with another athlete

Speed

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The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2023:[4]

Rank Name Points Seoul Jakarta Salt Lake City Villars Chamonix Wujiang
1   Veddriq Leonardo 3470 1. 1000 5. 545 1. 1000 5. 545 9. 380 —
2   Wu Peng 3405 6. 495 4. 610 2. 805 6. 495 7. 455 1. 1000
3   Samuel Watson 2550 9. 380 6. 495 4. 610 4. 610 10. 350 7. 455
4   Long Jianguo 2510 4. 610 34. 30 5. 545 1. 1000 11. 325 40. 15
5   Rahmad Adi Mulyono 2460 10. 350 9. 380 9. 380 10. 350 1. 1000 —
6   Wang Xinshang 2355 3. 690 2. 805 15. 240 15. 240 24. 105 9.380
7   Long Jinbao 2255 2. 805 12. 300 7. 455 13. 280 8. 415 —
8   Zhang Liang 2003 67. 3 10. 350 12. 300 2. 805 71. 1.57 5. 545
9   Shin Eun-cheol 1955 5. 545 8. 415 48. 9 21. 145 15. 240 4. 610
10   Ryo Omasa 1814 21. 145 43. 12 17. 205 3. 690 26. 284 3. 690

Women

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2023:[4]

Rank Name Points Seoul Jakarta Salt Lake City Villars Chamonix Wujiang
1   Natalia Kałucka 3700 2. 805 6. 495 5. 545 1. 1000 5. 545 2. 805
2   Aleksandra Mirosław 3545 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 — — 5. 545
3   Deng Lijuan 3535 5. 545 4. 610 3. 690 3. 690 — 1. 1000
4   Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 3225 3. 690 2. 805 2. 805 5. 545 9. 380 —
5   Rajiah Sallsabillah 3015 6. 495 8. 415 4. 610 6. 495 1. 1000 —
6   Aleksandra Kałucka 2785 4. 610 3. 690 9. 380 9. 380 6. 495 4. 610
7   Emma Hunt 2665 7. 455 7. 455 6. 495 2. 805 7. 455 —
8   Niu Di 2290 9. 380 5. 545 11. 325 10. 350 13. 280 3. 690
9   Nurul Iqamah 2125 18. 185 9. 380 7. 455 8. 415 3. 690 —
10   Zhang Shaoqin 1870 10. 350 20. 155 26. 84 12. 300 4. 610 7. 455

* = Joint place with another athlete

Lead

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The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023:[5]

Rank Name Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Wujiang
1   Sorato Anraku 4300 4. 610 (6. 495) 3. 690 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000
2   Alexander Megos 2650 2. 805 3. 690 4. 610 - 5. 545 -
3   Taisei Homma 2455 9. 380 13. 280 12. 300 2. 805 (13. 270*) 3. 690
4   Shion Omata 2445 12. 300 8. 415 9. 380 5. 545 (15. 240) 2. 805
5   Toby Roberts 2440 16. 220 4. 610 1. 1000 - 4. 610 -
6   Satone Yoshida 2080 6. 495 12. 300 11. 325 3. 690 13. 270* (14. 260)
7   Yoshiyuki Ogata 2065 (18. 185) 17. 205 14. 260 4. 610 9. 380 4. 610
8   Sascha Lehmann 1940 1. 1000 18. 185 - - 12. 300 7. 455
9   Masahiro Higuchi 1720 7. 455 21. 145 (26. 84) 6. 495 11. 325 12. 300
10   Jakob Schubert 1690 3. 690 1. 1000 - - - -

Women

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023:[5]

Rank Name Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Wujiang
1   Jessica Pilz 3235 3. 690 2. 805 4. 610 - 11. 325 2. 805
2   Janja Garnbret 3000 1. 1000 1. 1000 - - 1. 1000 -
3   Vita Lukan 2725 (17. 205) 13. 280 7. 455 1. 1000 3. 690 12. 300
4   Ai Mori 2610 2. 805 - - - 2. 805 1. 1000
5   Natsuki Tanii 2525 (26. 84) 6. 495 9. 380 8. 415 5. 545 3. 690
6   Jain Kim 2485 11. 325 7. 455 1. 1000 14. 250 (20. 155) 7. 455
7   Seo Chae-hyun 2430 5. 545 4. 610 8. 415 14. 250 4. 610 -
8   Mia Krampl 2275 6. 495 5. 545 6. 495 - 8. 415 11. 325
9   Nonoha Kume 2090 - 16. 220 2. 805 4. 610 7. 455 -
10   Molly Thompson-Smith 1885 9. 380 9. 380 12. 300 5. 545 13. 280 -

* = Joint place with another athlete

Season podium table

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RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1  Japan (JPN)2125
2  Poland (POL)1102
3  United States (USA)1023
4  Austria (AUT)1001
  Indonesia (INA)1001
6  China (CHN)0112
  Slovenia (SLO)0112
8  Germany (GER)0101
  South Korea (KOR)0101
Totals (9 entries)66618

Medal table

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RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1  Japan (JPN)78924
2  Indonesia (INA)52512
3  Slovenia (SLO)5117
4  Poland (POL)4217
5  China (CHN)35412
6  France (FRA)34613
7  United States (USA)3339
8  South Korea (KOR)2215
9  Great Britain (GBR)2013
10  Austria (AUT)1225
11  Switzerland (SUI)1001
12  Czech Republic (CZE)0303
13  Germany (GER)0213
14  Belgium (BEL)0101
  Kazakhstan (KAZ)0101
16  Serbia (SRB)0011
  Spain (ESP)0011
Totals (17 entries)363636108

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b "IFSC CALENDAR 2023: THE START OF A NEW OLYMPIC QUALIFICATION PATH" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 12 September 2023. Retrieved 15 September 2022.
  2. ^ Pardy, Aaron (30 April 2023). "Japan and France Take Gold at Boulder World Cup in Seoul". Gripped. Retrieved 1 May 2023.
  3. ^ a b "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Boulder". Retrieved 2023-04-24.
  4. ^ a b "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Speed". Retrieved 2023-05-07.
  5. ^ a b "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Lead". Retrieved 2023-06-24.
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